Power Steering Bypass

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68coupe

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My 5.2 is installed and I'm finishing up the loose ends. At this point I need to get a serpentine belt installed. I have removed the AC compressor and Power Steering pump (manual steering). I got a short serpentine belt that fits, making sure that the water pump and alternator turn in the right direction. lol
It doesn't seem that enough belt is contacting the water pump pulley. So now I'm considering taking the power steering pump bracket and fabricating a pulley to substitute as an idler. I would like to get everything running to get the car to the muffler shop.

First question: Can I install the PS pump and use a short piece of hose as a bypass for the time being?

Second question: Has anybody dealt with this problem already? Is anybody running manual steering?

Thanks guys
 
I have not done it before, but I see no reason you couldn't do it that way for a temp hookup.
The pump will just pump and return.
 
Well ,that's what I was hoping. I'll try it tomorrow. Dang, they sure as hell went up on prices for serpentine belts since I bought one! Sometimes I feel like Rip Van Winkle when it comes to inflation. Thanks Beast
 
Well ,that's what I was hoping. I'll try it tomorrow. Dang, they sure as hell went up on prices for serpentine belts since I bought one! Sometimes I feel like Rip Van Winkle when it comes to inflation. Thanks Beast

I hear ya, as even if it's been a decade or more it still feels like it sneaked up on me. :D

(Like paint jobs)
 
On my cousin's magnum swapped 46 ford we bypassed the p/s as well, we made a small bracket to hold an idler pulley so it would wrap the water pump as you said.
 
On my cousin's magnum swapped 46 ford we bypassed the p/s as well, we made a small bracket to hold an idler pulley so it would wrap the water pump as you said.

Did you make the idler the same diameter as the original so you could use the factory belt or just measure and fit another belt? Chrysler is 7 groove and most everybody else 6 groove. I want to use 7.
 
Did you make the idler the same diameter as the original so you could use the factory belt or just measure and fit another belt? Chrysler is 7 groove and most everybody else 6 groove. I want to use 7.

Personally I would make the replacement pulley/idler the same size as the original pump pulley so you can get replacement belts easier.
That's just the way I think though, because I want things to be reliable and easy to deal with later if/when needed.
Would it be reasonable to use the pulley off the pump and mount it as an idler?
 
Personally I would make the replacement pulley/idler the same size as the original pump pulley so you can get replacement belts easier.
That's just the way I think though, because I want things to be reliable and easy to deal with later if/when needed.
Would it be reasonable to use the pulley off the pump and mount it as an idler?

Well, that's exactly what I was thinkin'. They do have a belt designed for no AC. All I need to do then is to use the original bracket and fabricate the idler shaft part. In the meantime I can just bolt the pump on and get it ready for the muffler shop.
 
Did you make the idler the same diameter as the original so you could use the factory belt or just measure and fit another belt? Chrysler is 7 groove and most everybody else 6 groove. I want to use 7.

That would be the best bet, we couldn't do that because of the tight engine bay in his truck. Definitely do that on your car if you can I would say.
 
Cool - The pump shaft goes through the center of the bracket so it should be fairly easy to mount a bearing and shaft to the bracket.

How about this idea? Seems either Jeep or Ford has a cooling fan that is driven off of the PS pump. I was planning on installing an electric fan, but may look into the possibility of fitting a hydraulic driven fan. Whatya guys think about that?

I assume the PS pump is a static pressure? Or does the pressure increase with the pulley RPM?
 
Cool - The pump shaft goes through the center of the bracket so it should be fairly easy to mount a bearing and shaft to the bracket.

How about this idea? Seems either Jeep or Ford has a cooling fan that is driven off of the PS pump. I was planning on installing an electric fan, but may look into the possibility of fitting a hydraulic driven fan. Whatya guys think about that?

I assume the PS pump is a static pressure? Or does the pressure increase with the pulley RPM?

Almost positive they are static since they have a regulator valve in them.
The rest I have no knowledge about.
 
I think it's 05-10 grand Cherokees that use them, not sure though.
 
I think you are right Ralphie, seems that is where I saw one.
 
Next problem: I'm putting the PS pump in and the battery tray is interfering with the bracket. It's not the pump, but the bracket and pulley.
What do I do except to move the battery to the trunk? I don't have a problem with that except for the battery temp sensor. I had thought about moving the battery anyways but.....

Again, how has everybody else solved this problem? I thought most guys had power steering, so should be a couple of solutions.
 
Sorry, can't help you there, my magnum swap is in a C body so I have about a mile in between them, lol!
 
My Magnum swap Wikipedia man said to get a pump and bracket off of a 1500 Van and get the belt for AC delete. Great news, don't have to move the battery.
 
Sorry, can't help you there, my magnum swap is in a C body so I have about a mile in between them, lol!

he he he - I bet you could set a lawn chair inside the engine compartment and sit down to change the plugs! LOL
 
he he he - I bet you could set a lawn chair inside the engine compartment and sit down to change the plugs! LOL
Had to change an alt on a W-150. Climbed up the bumper, sat on the fender with my feet on the rails- it was definitely pleasant doing it under the hood in the shade since it was 85 or 88 out.

Good that you got that worked out, those van setups are supposed to be low profile since the vans have basically half an engine bay.
 
Next problem: I'm putting the PS pump in and the battery tray is interfering with the bracket. It's not the pump, but the bracket and pulley.
What do I do except to move the battery to the trunk? I don't have a problem with that except for the battery temp sensor. I had thought about moving the battery anyways but.....

Again, how has everybody else solved this problem? I thought most guys had power steering, so should be a couple of solutions.

I solved this interference between the PS pump and the battery tray by using a narrower battery and cutting, narrowing and re-welding my battery tray to clear the pump. It works great.

I used a battery designed for a Ford mini-school bus, because it was has the highest a narrow width and the highest CCA (cold cranking amps) that I could find in that width.
 

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Cool - I like options. I see you have AC on yours. Is that what the hoses are for, right behind the battery? I would like to add AC at a later date - either factory style or aftermarket, whichever is most appropriate.
 
Cool - I like options. I see you have AC on yours. Is that what the hoses are for, right behind the battery? I would like to add AC at a later date - either factory style or aftermarket, whichever is most appropriate.

No. Those hoses are for an oil trap that I installed in my PCV lines to keep oil from getting into my intake at high rpm.
 
I'm going tomorrow to get a power steering bracket off of a 98 1500 van. According to my research, the part number is 53008859. It should lower the pump enough not to interfere with the battery tray. That way I can get a standard belt for the van equipped with PS delete.
I'm also going to disassemble the pump and remove the vanes. That way there should be no pressure on the supply side. I'll figure out how to mount the pump bearing and shaft later when I don't have anything else to do. Like that ever happens.

Thanks again, Dave
 
jim, the a/c delete magnums MAY have a bracket and pulley to take the place of the compressor. not sure, but something to think about. dave.
 
Hi Dave! I got the bracket today with very little problem. Somebody had taken the water pump off the van. I pulled the pulley, 4 bolts to remove the pump and 4 bolts to remove the bracket. Easy Peasy!
I just finished disassembling the pump. I removed the impeller vanes and main valve. I'll just put it back together and have a non-functioning pump for right now. I'll keep a minimal amount of PS fluid just to lubricate the internal moving parts.

Dave, you have a good point on the AC delete issue. There's a difference in of 2" in the regular belt and the delete belt. I may see if one of the box stores has the delete belt. I'll try it for fit, then return it. I was gonna order a GOOD belt from Rock Auto.

Thanks again Pal!
 
I removed the internal parts from the power steering pump and reassembled. Initially I left everything out except the impeller. The shaft moves in and out a little too much. I put the rest of the parts back in, including a spring that pushes all of the plates and cams towards the impeller. That keeps very little play in the shaft. All that was removed was the vanes and pressure valve. The van bracket drops the pump down, totally out of the way.

I was looking for some belt routing diagrams and came across this. I'm not sure about the routing if the vehicle is NOT equipped with power steering.
 
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