Power Steering pump noise

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Cmizz

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I have a 66 Dodge Dart convertible, with the original, but freshly rebuilt 225 slant six. I put a new p/s pump on it, which bolts right in but makes an awful screeching noise, especially when the wheel is at either lock. I don't have the original pump anymore, and didn't think to compare the old pump to the new. I thought maybe I had a bad pump, and got another new (rebuilt) one, but am having the same problem. I notice that the pulley on the pump does not line up perfectly with the crankshaft pulley. The p/s pump pulley is about a 1/2 inch forward of the crank pulley when I'm looking straight down at it. I have 2 questions: 1.) Would the pulley not lining up perfectly be the cause of the screeching noise when I turn the wheel to either stop? 2.) Is there a different pump available that would line up correctly?
 
Yes, V-belts are forgiving up to 1/8" mis-alignment, but not your 1/2". A serpentine belt would have spit off in a few revolutions with pulleys that far off. There were 3 power steering pumps used on 60-70's Mopars and each has different brackets. There are at least that many pulleys, with various offsets for different years and accessories. Correct for your 1966 is the TRW pump. My 1969 Dart had the similar-looking Federal pump (or "Chrysler") and they don't interchange. That bracket cracked, so I got another from the junkyard from a 1970's slant. I was a neophyte and didn't know how lucky I was that the bracket bolted up, even though a different design (improved?) and it never cracked. Bouchillon Performance sells the pumps and brackets and their site has many photos to explain things. But, I don't recall seeing brackets for a slant there. But, so many people here change to V-8's that slant parts are almost free.
 
Thank you. I have a Thompson pump (same as TRW I think) on it now, but from what you said that may or may not mean I have the right combination of pump/pulley to match up. And do you think that misalignment would cause the screeching noise I’m hearing at either stop?
 
I am pretty sure you may have a press on pulley...it maybe as simple as renting a pulley removal / install kit from your local parts store and adjusting the pulley depth yourself. Hitting the steering stop would very much indeed cause the belt to squeal, steering belt needs to be pretty tight......
 
I am pretty sure you may have a press on pulley...it maybe as simple as renting a pulley removal / install kit from your local parts store and adjusting the pulley depth yourself.

Yes, check that the pulley is pressed on far enough.
You didn't give the history of the pump. Is it a rebuilt from a parts store? Those typically come w/o a pulley and you must reuse your old one. Maybe it slipped or didn't get pressed on far enough. And....the quality of rebuilds is suspect.

In the last year I've had to deal with this twice. On my 250,000 mile Neon and my "new" 1987 AMC Jeep. Because the Jeep has a lot of GM content in it I went with a Delco rebuild at twice the cost. I figured a Delco pump rebuilt by them was worth it because they should know what they're doing and that worked out well. (Sticker said it was rebuilt in Mexico but I have no complaints)

The Neon was another story. Took 3 tries at the rebuilt lottery window before I got a good one. Also had to buy a new composite serpentine pulley becsuse the original backed off the shaft of pump #2.

I bought the pulley removal tool because it also works on alternators.
 
Thank you for the replies. I will check pulley depth after work. That’s one of those simple potential solutions that never crossed my mind. I bought the pump from Rock Auto parts through Lares Corp, who specializes in steering components.
 
Thank you for the replies. I will check pulley depth after work. That’s one of those simple potential solutions that never crossed my mind. I bought the pump from Rock Auto parts through Lares Corp, who specializes in steering components.

Our Autozone takes a $40 deposit on that puller and returns the full 40 when you return it.
I'm almost positive you can use the puller to align the pulley without even taking the pump off.
It takes about 5-6 inches of gap in front of the pulley to do it on the car, but the belt being loosened first would probably be a good idea.
PS. I just got done with mine a few minutes ago, and my pulley was on about 1/8 too far, so once the whole thing was on the car I pulled the pulley back out 1/8. :D

You can see if it's the belt by using and old trick of touching a bar of soap to both sides of the belt with the engine running and if the sound goes away or changes it's for sure the belt making the squealing.
 
Similarly, Gates has a youtube showing spraying water on a serp belt with engine running. If the squeal goes away, it was the belt (usually misaligned pulleys). If not, probably a bearing. Should be the same for a V-belt.

Many people ASSume that the pulley should be flush with the end of the shaft. Often not true. I know in my 2002 3.8L, needs the p.s. shaft 1/4" recessed. The instructions actually say to "install so recess is the same as the old", as if that is defined. Of course, easier to press on (bolts & nuts) than to pull out (special puller), so many people press too far before they figure it out. Why such? Perhaps the designers selected existing pumps, pulleys, and brackets and boogered with the offset to make them fit each engine. I know the rebuilt pump in my 2002 Chrysler said "for Toyota pump in Chrysler applications".
 
Thank you all for the help. I moved the pulley further back onto the shaft to get it aligned with the crank pulley correctly, tightened the belt and it solved the problem. I guess the solution was so simple I just overlooked it.
 
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