I'm having an issue with all of my dash accessories. The wipers, turnsignals and even the heater blower motor are always on. Any ideas will be helpful. The good thing is that they all work perfectly but are working even with the key off or with the ignition switch unplugged. Thanks in advance for any help.
Power to accessories
- Thread starter drgordi
- Start date
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ken5124
65 Valiant Signet
It would seem that the main power supply for that circuit has been hooked into a live 12 volt feed line, instead of a switched 12 volt ignition line. Not sure what your wiring will look like though. You will probably have to trace some wires back
I guess I should have added the car was completely disassembled and is now back together. All of the wiring was uncut and visually intact everywhere. Nothing I could see prior to installation showed any signs of being hot. The only thing that needed changed out was the wiper motor ballast resistor. 1969 barracuda is what it's in.
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Something is awry, The big 12awg black off the ignition switch is the ACC feed to the wipers/heater/flasher and fuse box.
Several things can be at fault here. Do you have a easy to read set of drawings?
Look at were the factory splice is in theses drawings and start back tracking.
Several things can be at fault here. Do you have a easy to read set of drawings?
Look at were the factory splice is in theses drawings and start back tracking.
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you might want have a peek at this factory jumper "Q4-14BK" it could be plugged one fuse off and be tying battery to ACC.
you might want have a peek at this factory jumper "Q4-14BK" it could be plugged one fuse off and be tying battery to ACC.
TrailBeast
AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
You guys have so many good idea's I have to quote multiples of you.
I was waiting to see if anyone was going to mention that.
Really, I was
Has any of the OEM wiring been modified at all? Seeking clues LOL
Brake lamp circuit which is hot at all times can short to turn in the turn signal switch. I think a bad hazard lamp switch can short and back feed the same way.
A back feed would power all 3 of those hot only in run fuses but... this wiring is undersized for powering wipers, blower, etc... A melt down would occur eventually.
One method you might try... Find the black hot in run wire going into the fuse box, pull it from that buss bar. It should have no power if ign' switch is in off position. If it is hot the short is that wire back in the harness somewhere. If not hot/correct, now check that the buss bar is hot. If it is, pull fuses 1 at a time to determine which circuit a back feed is coming from. That's the best I can offer at this point.
Brake lamp circuit which is hot at all times can short to turn in the turn signal switch. I think a bad hazard lamp switch can short and back feed the same way.
A back feed would power all 3 of those hot only in run fuses but... this wiring is undersized for powering wipers, blower, etc... A melt down would occur eventually.
One method you might try... Find the black hot in run wire going into the fuse box, pull it from that buss bar. It should have no power if ign' switch is in off position. If it is hot the short is that wire back in the harness somewhere. If not hot/correct, now check that the buss bar is hot. If it is, pull fuses 1 at a time to determine which circuit a back feed is coming from. That's the best I can offer at this point.
By the way... another member recently searched for a ign' switch harness connector. His was melted. Any of these harness connectors with a gang of female spades ( some high amp ) can and have melted. Head light switch connector, wiper switch connector, all. Not all of them have both hot in run and hot at all times in them but in any case, the female spade terminals moving around can cause short circuits.
Typical standard fusebox doesn't have a fuse holder in the very end accessory slot. When the tach was added that wiring included the additional fuse clip. Tach has 2 contact posts. l
Longer one gets the wire from this fuse. Shorter post has a wire to the neg' side of coil. This wire in a separate grommet through the firewall. If all this looks correct and the tach works as it should, probably not related to the fault.
If a tach and wiring was added... it could be the culprit. Still seeking clues.
Longer one gets the wire from this fuse. Shorter post has a wire to the neg' side of coil. This wire in a separate grommet through the firewall. If all this looks correct and the tach works as it should, probably not related to the fault.
If a tach and wiring was added... it could be the culprit. Still seeking clues.
Good news looks like it was the black jumper wire in the fuse box was pushed down and contacting the buss bar beside it. Thanks for all the help guys. With everything working properly I just had to be overlooking something simple. The car wasn't running when I got it but nothing had been messed with since 72. Thanks again for all the help
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