Power to coil from column connector

[440+6scamp]

I'm sure this is dicussed on the forum somewhere but I couldn't find it. I used an EZ wiring kit on my car. I have an MSD points distributer. The wiring is simple... coil wire runs from ignition switch to + side of coil. Therefore, I need to hook it to a source from the column that has power when the switch is in the on and start positions. From what I can tell, none of the wires coming from the switch have power in both positions. So, to start the motor I spliced the blue (power in "on" postion) and brown (power in "start" position) together and it started and ran fine. However, I believe the blue wire is what's powering my gauges b/c they're not working now that I have the blue wire disconnected (unless my gauges just don't work). So, I want to leave to coil wire connected to the blue and brown wires and reconnect the blue wire to the fuse box as I originally had. But now that I have the blue and brown spliced together, anything that draws amps from the blue wire will now do so in the on and start positions instead of just the on position. Will this extra draw when cranking hurt? Is there a better way to do this? Sorry for the long post.

 

[Steve68]

Normally Red would be the hot going into the switch and the Black wire would be the hot for the aux circuits, which is what the gauges and anything else coming on when the switch is in aux or on positon should be on. Brown would be Ign2 (Start) and Blue would be Ign1 (Run)

 

[fenderman33]

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=89420

 

[440+6scamp]

That's exactly what I'm looking for fenderman. I tied the brown (power in start) and blue (power when on) together and the coil works fine. My concern is that the blue wire runs to the fusebox and powers other things (alt exciter, gauges, something else). So, now that the brown is connected to the blue, the blue will now have power while cranking which I assume means that there will be unnecessary current draw when starting (things that would normally be off when starting will now be powered). The car starts fine like this but it may or may not become an issue if the battery is low. Did you have this issue when you tied the wires together?

 

[fenderman33]

The brown wire that's hot while cranking goes to the coil to bypass the ballast resistor during cranking. My car doesn't have a ballast resistor, so that wire wasn't being used anyways.
Does the MSD you're using get rid of the resistor also? If it doesn't you'll have the full 12v+ at the coil whenever the key is on because you've bypassed the resistor. I assume the MSD doesn't use it though.
I haven't had any issues with mine connected the way they are.
-Jon

That's exactly what I'm looking for fenderman. I tied the brown (power in start) and blue (power when on) together and the coil works fine. My concern is that the blue wire runs to the fusebox and powers other things (alt exciter, gauges, something else). So, now that the brown is connected to the blue, the blue will now have power while cranking which I assume means that there will be unnecessary current draw when starting (things that would normally be off when starting will now be powered). The car starts fine like this but it may or may not become an issue if the battery is low. Did you have this issue when you tied the wires together?

 

[440+6scamp]

Yes, my MSD coil does not need a resistor and gets a full 12V at all times. I have a single Coil + wire that runs from the ign switch to the coil. I guess the factory wiring had the brown wire going through a resistor to the coil that was powered when cranking and a blue wire going to the ecu that was powered when running. So, I need to tie these 2 (brown and blue) wires together to feed the single coil wire that I have now. Like I said, I've done this already and it starts and runs fine. My concern is just the additional systems that are powered when cranking now since I connected the brown wire to the blue. I assume it will be ok but I'm sure it will take some cranking amps away while starting. I was hoping to find a better way to do this w/o powering any additional systems while cranking.