power valve makes my 440 ping??

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thanks moper, heads or block. thats exactly the info I needed, that clears it right up.
the pump is fed by two 1/2" lines from the sump I welded on the bottom of my tank.
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the pump its self is mounted 2.5" down from the top of the tank.
 
Thanks Terry...lol. You're right. Please dont cut .720 off anything...lol
 
demon seed said:
I'd start off by pulling all the plugs and seeing what's going on. Also, are you running the vacuum advance hooked up? If everything looks good but still pinging I'd throw in a 1/2 can of Octane Boost, you may have got some skunky (old) fuel at the last fill and that'll make her knock.
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Try some new fuel or Lucas octane booster. If you continue running with the ping you will damage the main or rod bearings. Check the oil and see if it smells like gas if it does change it right away and check you float settings, if you overfill the bowls excess gas will spill into the cylinders and overcome the piston rings. 8)
 
timopar said:
yep, only one set in a twin point dizzy. billet elac upgrades on my to-do list.
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First thing, if you got new points and condenser replace them. The condenser could be crapping out therefore your coil is not getting the saturation it needs, secondary voltage is down and spark is weak and the engine will knock like crazy. Best case replace the dizzy with a high voltage unit like the Mopar with the orange box and .5-.9 ohm ballast.

Second thing, turn your fuel pressure down to 6.5-7 lbs. and with that regulator it should not creep above that unless the regulator ball and seat are worn in which case replace the regulator.

Good Luck
 
I don't think Holley recommends mounting their regulators on the engine, so vibration might be an issue (although I doubt it), ask Holley.

You also have an obscene amount of rubber fuel line, which can break down inside and send bits of crap throughout your fuel system.

Not sure what coil that is, but it looks like the factory ballast resistor on the firewall. Are they compatible?

I've spent enough time working on British cars to know that the main problem with SU/Stromberg carbs is the Lucas distributor. A re-think of your entire ignition system is in order, and perhaps before you spend too much more time on the carb.
 
A points dizzy?
S***!
Scrap it asap an go elec.
Love your car though,an cant wait for you to tell
us how it hauls once its sorted ;)
 
fuel pressure is definitely something I need to address, tho due to the plug color being tan, I dont think its flooding enough to wash the bores of there oil.

in terms of ignition, Im thinking of buying a mallory unilite or pertronix billet.
they both have internal modules so no messy wireing or ignition box cluttering the engine bay.
the new pertronix has multi spark and a rev limiter, but summit and jegs are both out of stock.
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well Im glad you like the car, dont suppose any of you have ever seen one of these before tho.
the front half is US sheetmetal :-D
 
Go ice ignition!
Made in aus as well as being one of the best
in the business!
 
I tried a new condenser yesterday, to no avail.
Removing the intake today, I found 5 of the 8 inlet ports coated in oil.
so at a guess Id say iv found the problem.
the intake is at the machine shop, so early next week it should be coming back together.
thanks again for the advice fellas, Iv learnt a lot. Tim
 
timopar said:
I tried a new condenser yesterday, to no avail.
Removing the intake today, I found 5 of the 8 inlet ports coated in oil.
so at a guess Id say iv found the problem.
the intake is at the machine shop, so early next week it should be coming back together.
thanks again for the advice fellas, Iv learnt a lot. Tim
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Might be a stupid question...
But how does that happen?

Glad you found the problem though tim!

An man....
I didnt know the ice ignition setup was sooo expensive!!!
I know we make them an those in engine building comps
swear by them in the u.s, but didnt know they costed
so much!!!!!
:O

NOW let us know how she hauls when you get it back!
;)
 
That C clip is damaged if you look closely!! What looks to be happening is... you don't have enough preload on the lifters & the cup is slamming into the clip, this will cause it to bend & pop out, you need at least .020" preload on those style lifters, are you running an adj. valvetrain? On all my Mopar engines i build anymore with aggressive cams i always run adj. rockers & Pro-magnum (anti-pump-up) lifters with the E clip (lesson learned), they are designed so you can set them at "0" pre-load if desired.
 
yep thanks Joe, that would make perfect sens, I just found that the rocker above that lifter is badly worn and eating into the shaft :angry7: more money.
old rocker gear and 120lb on the seat 347lb over the nose prolly did that.
 
Stock rockers will not take that kind of abuse with those spring pressures, adding a higher lift cam over stock just adds to the problem, looks like you have some $$$$ to shell out, there is a stainless steel roller tip rocker kit with shafts/shims/bolts for 360.00 from KMJ performance (www.kmjent.com), i would also invest in some pro-magnum lifters from comp. cams, there about 95.00 bucks through summit, just make sure your pushrods aren't gauled at the tips.
 
I have a lot of respect for Guitar Jones and his knowledge and experience. I have to agree with moper though about the power valve. There is no good reason in my years of experience to remove a power valve from the primary side of a Holley. It is the most efficient way to enrichen the fuel mixture under load. An 82 jet should be efficient for your application and a power valve in the range of 5.5 to 6.5 is also in the ball park. Pinging usually occurs for the following reasons:
1. improper timing and/or advance curve
2. detonation caused by "hot spots" from carbon or oil entering the mixture
3. lean fuel/air mixture or insufficient octane of fuel
You need to chase down these variables. Removing the power valve results in a lean situation when it needs it the most. You say pinging is lessened when you remove it and I have no reason to doubt your judgement. It is really making me think you have two problems all at once. The first is a messed up distributor that is reaching full advance quickly with TOO MUCH advance (eliminate the vacuum) and second, you may have a problem with the carb as Guitar Jones pointed out. Pinging simply does not occur in an engine with a 12-to-1 fuel mixture, all things else equal. I have to assume that you are using a quality fuel up to the task but by all means put some octane booster in it. Be sure fuel pressure is around 6 psi at idle. Use a vacuum gage on a full vacuum port on the carb and get an idle reading because that will tell you what power valve you need. Rap the throttle and watch what it drops to. The power valve has to be in play before that bottom occurs. If your vacuum at idle is 10 hg then a power valve of 6.5 hg would be good. A 5.5 would delay the enrichment slightly. The number on the power valve is the hg (inches of water) that the critter opens at and adds more fuel into the main wells beyond what the main jets can provide. So then, an 8.5 valve would enrichen earlier than a 6.5. Removing the power valve requires that you increase the size of the main jets a whole bunch and that is just not good for overall driveability and economy. I'm not trusting your distributor! Can you switch to another one that is proven to be good? Do you know anyone with a trick timing light that reads the advance from initial through total. Get that done. Another thing I have seen is that people change primary metering blocks sometimes for whatever reason. One of the big differences in the metering blocks are the sizes of the PVCRs (power valve channel restrictions) which regulate how much extra fuel the power valve can supply to the main wells and out to the boosters. You can see these holes in there when you take the power valve out. If you have a block from a list 1850 600 cfm carb for example, the PVCRs would be too small to enrichen the mixture as is needed. What is your water temperature? If it is around 200, the fuel air mixture is also heated which can cause it to ignite more quickly at a given reference of timing. There is a difference of 8% from an engine running 160 against 200. Hope this helps.
Pat
 
wow! that was a huge post. lots of info.
when guitar jones offered his advise. He made the point that in a wild cammed engine with pore intake vacuum, His experience showed better results with a PV plug and an increase in jetting(8 to 10 sizes as discussed) rather than a PV and lighter jetting.
I have to agree with him, my previous engine (6cyl .550" cam) loped away between 3 and 4" of vac at 900rpm and was far more streetable with a PV plug. yeh my 440 wants a PV and it'll get when it go's back together.

I do agree with you and a few other guys, that Im likely chasing two problems. At this point tho im in a process of elimination, Iv found I had vac/oil leak in the valley as discussed earlier, my distributor is a factory Hi pref unit so it never came with vac advance, its recently bin tested in a dizzy machine, no problems there, steady 21deg(crank) from 2150(crank)rpm and the points dont bounce till above 6000.

when my rockers and gaskets arrive ill bolt it all back together and start on trouble shooting the fuel system. the fuel I use is BP ultimate 98oct.
The octane boost I used was locally made nulon and with BP98 is used all over the country in 12to1+ iron head motor with no ping.
my holley has the correct metering blocks for its #'s and they are not blocked or oversized in any orifice. It also has a brand new baseplate and was draw filed flat on the gasket surfaces, was completely chemicaly cleaned and preasure tested. Holley dont mind the reg being mounted on the engine either, infact there are brackets avalable to mount them from the carb baseplate studs and the engine temp stays 160-170 as discussed earlier. thanks Tim
 
JoeDust451 said:
Stock rockers will not take that kind of abuse with those spring pressures, adding a higher lift cam over stock just adds to the problem, looks like you have some $$$$ to shell out, there is a stainless steel roller tip rocker kit with shafts/shims/bolts for 360.00 from KMJ performance (www.kmjent.com), i would also invest in some pro-magnum lifters from comp. cams, there about 95.00 bucks through summit, just make sure your pushrods aren't gauled at the tips.
Click to expand...
thanks for the tip on those rockers to Joe, I got em on sale for $279US 8)
 
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