Powershift second and clutch pedal stuck to the floor.

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toolmanmike

toolmanmike

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Title tells it all. The clutch hasn't been what I would call "right" since I replaced it when I rebuilt the engine.. That was the first one Could I have the z bar in backwards? The original clutch had throw or stroke. (easy to feather and the friction point was a inch or so between engagement and disengagement) Both the new clutches release close to the floor and are very touchy. They are either engaged or not with a inch or less travel in between. (Like a racing clutch in a stock car if you've ever experienced one.) The pedal doesn't return to the top by itself either unless I lift it with my toe. I have tried 2 clutches and have replaced or rebushed all the linkage. I didn't change clutch types so I shouldn't
have to remove the over center spring. The clutch is smooth but almost feels too soft or spongy. Any ideas?
 
perfacar said:
is it a daiphram or 3 finger B&B or long style??
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Yup. Need more info. What brand, part nu. type, etc, is the clutch?

If you are running a diaphragm, you probably should not be using an over-center spring.

"Back in the day," this was a common problem with diaphragm covers.
 
May be a dumb question- but are you sure the clutch disc in installed correctly?
 
The daiphram pressure plate with the over center spring can cause this or an improperly assembled { leveraged } 3 finger will do the same . . . . Just from my experience. I have the 130 tooth flywheel with a 10.95 clutch setup in my 66 cause I beat on it and didn't want the tiny factory setup that doesn't seem to take such a beating . just my .02 :joker:
 
perfacar said:
is it a daiphram or 3 finger B&B or long style??
Click to expand...

Borg and Beck. It came from Brewer Performance. The disc is installed correctly and I had the local Clutchmasters put it on their set-up machine and check it before I installed it. I'm overlooking something.
 
few things can do that

bind linkage
bad pressure plate(what im thinking is your problem)
wrong release bearing
stuck clutch fork
 
Check for bent or broken linkage or maybe something let go in the pressure plate. Has it changed feel? What RPM are you speed shifting at? I actually broke out the tube on my Z-bar years ago. Watch your linkage with someone else pushes in on the clutch pedal?
 
I am going to check it out in a hour or two. I has been different since I took it all apart 2 years ago when I rebuilt the motor and transmission. All the linkage is new. That's why I think the Z bar may be in backwards. I questioned myself when I put it in as to whether it was correct or not and I haven't changed it. Nothing I have done to it has made the free travel or adjustment any different.
That includes 2 different clutches and a complete rebuild/ replacement of the linkage. I hope the Z bar ids the problem. I once described it like the geometry is wrong.
 
Is the short arm of the z bar supposed to be on top or the bottom? Mine is on the bottom. With the long arm on the top, the rod coming from the pedal pushes the hole in the grommet to the top. I'm going back out and see what I can do.
Good or bad, I'll report later. tmm
 
toolmanmike said:
Is the short arm of the z bar supposed to be on top or the bottom? Mine is on the bottom. With the long arm on the top, the rod coming from the pedal pushes the hole in the grommet to the top. I'm going back out and see what I can do.
Good or bad, I'll report later. tmm
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Your orientation is right. geometry overextension will jamb the arms, underextension will give what you are experienceing, unless your syncros. are shot? Use 5/32" freeplay on your Z to fork rod, activate and see if you can get feeler gauge between clutch and discface.
 
Dang, the z bar can't be in backwards. The lower arm has a crook in it to go around the exhaust pipe. I took the z bar out and put it in backwards and it didn't work. The arm hits the exhaust with little movement. What a pain to do! I am getting good at those flat clips on the end of the linkage. LOL
I greased up all the pivots and the bushings and put it all back together and adjusted the linkage so that the throw out bearing just clears the fingers. It feels normal and the pedal will return up to the stop. The free travel in the pedal is a inch or so....right where it should be. The clutch feels stronger. I did a 30 ft. burnout on the street. It felt good. tmm
 
toolmanmike said:
Dang, the z bar can't be in backwards. The lower arm has a crook in it to go around the exhaust pipe. I took the z bar out and put it in backwards and it didn't work. The arm hits the exhaust with little movement. What a pain to do! I am getting good at those flat clips on the end of the linkage. LOL
I greased up all the pivots and the bushings and put it all back together and adjusted the linkage so that the throw out bearing just clears the fingers. It feels normal and the pedal will return up to the stop. The free travel in the pedal is a inch or so....right where it should be. The clutch feels stronger. I did a 30 ft. burnout on the street. It felt good. tmm
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I thought the issue was powershifting ????? :glasses7:
 
I shouldn't have powershifted I guess. I have never had the pedal stick to the floor. Maybe I won't abuse it again. LOL
 
Even when every thing is set up proper, the pedal will stick to the floor on power shifting if you are shifting at a hi rpm (6000 + rpm ) the trick is to make sure that you don't go past the over centerpoint. just adjust the free play and then by putting an adjustable pedal stop on the floor, adjust the pedal to just give you clutch disengagement and making sure you have disc to plate clearance. this will prevent any sticking to the floor, speed up your shift times and totally improve your power shifting.
 
toolmanmike said:
I shouldn't have powershifted I guess. I have never had the pedal stick to the floor. Maybe I won't abuse it again. LOL
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What the hell? Damn dude, no matter how much I love my car, I DO "abuse" it. That's what I built it for. Geez, why have a four speed?

Just bustin' your balls.. ;-)

Check clutch departure with a feeler gauge. I think you want .060 IIRC
 
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