Preferred Coolant Temps

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What's everyone's preferred coolant temp at the line? My current combo might be too efficient as I can't seem to get the engine up to temp unless I turn off water pump and fans.... lol

Here's my combo.
408 aluminum headed stroker
26" Aluminum radiator with shrouded electric puller fan
Meziere HD electric water pump
No thermostat
Straight non-glycol racing coolant

I can idle the car forever with just the pump running and the temps will barely get to 150-160. With the fan on, it will drop to 135-140. We made about 10 pulls on a chassis dyno and I had to keep switching the fan off to get the engine temps up. Granted it is getting chilly here so I am keeping ambient temperatures in mind but I really don't anticipate too much difference in the summer.

Thoughts?

Thanks, Bill
 
A good high flow thermostat will help get the temps up- start with a 180 and go from there. If for some reason you can't or don't want to run a t-stat, at least try a restrictor.
 
Professor Fate said:
A good high flow thermostat will help get the temps up- start with a 180 and go from there. If for some reason you can't or don't want to run a t-stat, at least try a restrictor.
Click to expand...
I should have added that I do not have a bypass hose either which is also part of the reason why I don't run a thermostat.
 
-Boosted- said:
I should have added that I do not have a bypass hose either which is also part of the reason why I don't run a thermostat.
Click to expand...
You may have to consider it.
Remember- the temp rating on a t-stat is it's opening temperature, not the top limit- so it will assure your engine will reach that minimum temp. without affecting your flow when it opens. The high temp number is determined by the cooling system efficiency, and it sounds like you have that well covered.
 
-Boosted- said:
What's everyone's preferred coolant temp at the line? My current combo might be too efficient as I can't seem to get the engine up to temp unless I turn off water pump and fans.... lol

Here's my combo.
408 aluminum headed stroker
26" Aluminum radiator with shrouded electric puller fan
Meziere HD electric water pump
No thermostat
Straight non-glycol racing coolant

I can idle the car forever with just the pump running and the temps will barely get to 150-160. With the fan on, it will drop to 135-140. We made about 10 pulls on a chassis dyno and I had to keep switching the fan off to get the engine temps up. Granted it is getting chilly here so I am keeping ambient temperatures in mind but I really don't anticipate too much difference in the summer.

Thoughts?

Thanks, Bill
Click to expand...

The question is did you make some pulls at different engine temperatures to see where it made more power?

You need a thermostat. If for no other reason than to seT your minimum operation temperature
 
Professor Fate said:
You may have to consider it.
Click to expand...

How would I plumb it? There’s no provision for a bypass hose on the water pump.

IMG_1846.jpeg
 
Newbomb Turk said:
The question is did you make some pulls at different engine temperatures to see where it made more power?

You need a thermostat. If for no other reason than to seT your minimum operation temperature
Click to expand...
No, that was one of the things we had planned on doing but it was hard just getting enough temp to make a pull.

I want to run a t-stat....just haven't figured out how to plumb in a bypass hose with my setup.
 
I have basically the same set up. I don't run a stat and my temps stay around 165-180 most of the time. While I'm sitting in the lanes, someone uses a spritzer across my radiator. I cycle the fan and water pump to keep the temps down before staging. Sometimes when the round robins start my temps are 8-10* higher.
 
Demonracer said:
I have basically the same set up. I don't run a stat and my temps stay around 165-180 most of the time. While I'm sitting in the lanes, someone uses a spritzer across my radiator. I cycle the fan and water pump to keep the temps down before staging. Sometimes when the round robins start my temps are 8-10* higher.
Click to expand...
I can wire in the thermostatic fan controller I have to handle turning fan on and off to maintain temps. My problem is getting the temps high enough to begin with. Maybe cycle pump on and off?
 
Newbomb Turk said:
Ok, Meziere says to drill 2 or 3 1/8 inch holes in the flange of the thermostat and run it. You just need some coolant to move while the thermostat is closed.

Sounds pretty simple.
Click to expand...
Nice! Don't know why I didn't think to look to Meziere for the answer. lol

Thank you, Bill
 
-Boosted- said:
I can wire in the thermostatic fan controller I have to handle turning fan on and off to maintain temps. My problem is getting the temps high enough to begin with. Maybe cycle pump on and off?
Click to expand...
A thought- you could possibly wire in a relay on your fan controller circuit to turn on your water pump when the engine reaches your preferred operating temp. It would theoretically work like an electronic thermostat..?
 
I take it you are running alcohol, my car is just a pump gas engine. Where the by pass hose used to be is where the thermocouple is for my temp gauge. My block is a full fill with Hardblok, so I'm only cooling the top of the deck and the cylinder heads.
 
I never ran a bypass hose, cooler weather I ran a thermostat with a 3/16 hole drilled on the outside edge.
Race car I may add, bypass hose was something else to go wrong I plugged everything off.
 
Demonracer said:
I take it you are running alcohol, my car is just a pump gas engine. Where the by pass hose used to be is where the thermocouple is for my temp gauge. My block is a full fill with Hardblok, so I'm only cooling the top of the deck and the cylinder heads.
Click to expand...
Race gas, no fill.
 
Professor Fate said:
A thought- you could possibly wire in a relay on your fan controller circuit to turn on your water pump when the engine reaches your preferred operating temp. It would theoretically work like an electronic thermostat..?
Click to expand...
I thought about that but at the same time, I just don't like the thought of not having coolant circulating. No particular reason, just a personal preference.... lol
 
-Boosted- said:
Race gas, no fill.
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Bill, you're probably 20 HP down running that expensive race gas. Based off of your compression ratio I'd say your a perfect candidate for AV gas with mmt additive.
It's 2 gallons to 1 for a price difference.
 
MOPARMAGA said:
Bill, you're probably 20 HP down running that expensive race gas. Based off of your compression ratio I'd say your a perfect candidate for AV gas with mmt additive.
It's 2 gallons to 1 for a price difference.
Click to expand...
Currently running Renegade 112+ only because it was cheap from a friend. Got 20 gallons for $220. When I run out, I am going to try Sunoco 110 out of the pump near by which is currently $14 a gallon. I have all winter to decide and tune for what I will run next season. Even thinking e85 but that would require ordering a new carb.... lol
 
-Boosted- said:
Currently running Renegade 112+ only because it was cheap from a friend. Got 20 gallons for $220. When I run out, I am going to try Sunoco 110 out of the pump near by which is currently $14 a gallon. I have all winter to decide and tune for what I will run next season. Even thinking e85 but that would require ordering a new carb.... lol
Click to expand...
Expensive shiz for sure.
 
-Boosted- said:
I thought about that but at the same time, I just don't like the thought of not having coolant circulating. No particular reason, just a personal preference.... lol
Click to expand...
think about it for a minute- coolant is not circulating when a thermostat is closed, no different than having the pump off.
When the coolant heats up, the thermostat opens and begins to circulate; or in your case , the pump would switch on and begin to circulate.
Kind of a moot point anyhow, if Meziere says you'll be okay with a couple of 1/8 inch holes in the t-stat, I'd just go with that. Keeps it simple.
 
Professor Fate said:
think about it for a minute- coolant is not circulating when a thermostat is closed, no different than having the pump off.
When the coolant heats up, the thermostat opens and begins to circulate; or in your case , the pump would switch on and begin to circulate.
Kind of a moot point anyhow, if Meziere says you'll be okay with a couple of 1/8 inch holes in the t-stat, I'd just go with that. Keeps it simple.
Click to expand...
Yup, I agree with everything you said. Going to drill up a t-stat and try it out.
 
The stat is the restriction in the cooling system that allows pressure build up. The pressure subdues localised boiling around hot spots such as the exh ports. If not using a stat, a washer or similar should be used to maintain the system pressure.
 
-Boosted- said:
I should have added that I do not have a bypass hose either which is also part of the reason why I don't run a thermostat.
Click to expand...
On my 91 dakota. My indy single plane doesn't have a bypass hose. So I just gutted a stock thermostat. I mean cut out the center part and used it for a restrictor. Seems to work great for me. But I don't run my dakota on the street and I just have a slow 360 magnum in my pro-junk yard Dakota. Lol
 
mopar65 said:
On my 91 dakota. My indy single plane doesn't have a bypass hose. So I just gutted a stock thermostat. I mean cut out the center part and used it for a restrictor. Seems to work great for me. But I don't run my dakota on the street and I just have a slow 360 magnum in my pro-junk yard Dakota. Lol
Click to expand...
My car doesn’t see the street either. Just looking for a way to bring up temps.
 
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