Pride gone... asking for help

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low compression? pour some 30 weight motor oil down the car, yes enough oil. if been sitting a long time, that will also help with the cyl walls.
 
I always use Marvins mystery oil on anything stuck, works great! I have heard of everything from transmission fluid to WD-40 etc,etc I'm sure they all work, but the key is to losen those stuck rings up.
 
if you have low compression, the oil will get it running!!! after you run it a while, compression can possible get better????
 
There are other issues to clean up. If the antifreeze has never been changed, which is quite possible, then the bottom of that long block may be filled with a rusty mud that can be a couple of inches deep in the back, and you'll have hot engine problems. A simple flush won't get that out in-car. I'd pull the block drain plug (back under the oil filter; may be hard to turn) and see what came out.

Bore wear in the #1 cylinder of inline 6's tends to be higher; you can check the cylinder wear and general cylinder condition by pulling the head.

Sticking rings is common. You might get them loose by working some penetrating oil down past the piston tops and moving things up and down; how well it cleans up over time is hard to say.

Rust in the bores? It is very likely for any bore that had a valve open while sitting for so long.

OP, is there a lot of gunk/crud up in the head, on the head surfaces and on the rockers, or is it pretty clean?

BTW, if/when you pull the head, you'll probably take a very thin head gasket out. The newer ones are thicker and lower compression ratio on an already lower CR engine. So head shaving is common. Around .020" shaving gets you back to the original CR with a thicker head gasket; more shaving increases CR over stock. .100" shaves are not unknown.

Oil pump gears take some attention to makes sure they are in good shape.

A lot of timing chain wear is common, and when worn, the cam is retarded, which effects low and mid RPM throttle response. I've replaced one in-car, but if you are doing the head, I'd pull the whole engine, so you can easily replace the timing chain too. (Getting the oil pan-to-timing cover gasket to refit is tricky without pulling the pan.) But at that point, a rebuild is making sense.

It's the usual story: Get into it so far and you might as well go whole hog....if you are going to stick with this engine.
 
I won't even mention the depth of "gunk" in the bottom of the oil pan on slants. I guess since they had such a great rep as being indestructible , people would run chit oil in them and never change it!!!! biggest problem is if the oil pickup is full of this ""mud"!!!!!!
yes.... I have seldom heard anything positive about Cliffords. I have heard people say he is a hero in his own mind> but I did not say that!
a good super ix ( 2 bbl setup) can really wake up a GOOD running slant. cheap if you (not on feebay) have a stick car, not so much if you have an auto....

a realize this, every mopar guy and girl will need at least 2 old cars to piddle with!
 
Id get it running first. straighten the bent rods with a hammer over a flat surface, roll them to get them as straight as you can. Go over to slantsix.org and put out a call for some straight pushrods. DrDodge (Doug Dutra) has plenty of spares of everything. while your waiting, get your valves unstuck: pull the valvetrain and lay a straightedge over the valves and work on the low ones. once you get them all free, cycle them once or twice with only that cylinder installed to make sure they are getting full travel by hand cranking. when they are all free, reinstall with straightened or new pushrods , lash it .010 in and .020 ex and fire it up. once you get it running, put a quart of diesel into the oil filler and let idle for 5 minutes, then do an oil change. the diesel will thin the oil and help clean the sludge. Just use cheap walmart oil as its going to come out again soon. Give the old girl a chance, Youd be suprised what a few minutes of running will do to an old motor. once you get it running, you can then determine if you need a valve job or a rebuilt motor. There are plenty of used motors on craigslist or here. dropping a 360 in is more work than you think with lots of supporting parts that may nickle and dime you past interest.
 
pishta said:
Id get it running first. straighten the bent rods with a hammer over a flat surface, roll them to get them as straight as you can. Go over to slantsix.org and put out a call for some straight pushrods. DrDodge (Doug Dutra) has plenty of spares of everything. while your waiting, get your valves unstuck: pull the valvetrain and lay a straightedge over the valves and work on the low ones. once you get them all free, cycle them once or twice with only that cylinder installed to make sure they are getting full travel by hand cranking. when they are all free, reinstall with straightened or new pushrods , lash it .010 in and .020 ex and fire it up. once you get it running, put a quart of diesel into the oil filler and let idle for 5 minutes, then do an oil change. the diesel will thin the oil and help clean the sludge. Just use cheap walmart oil as its going to come out again soon. Give the old girl a chance, Youd be suprised what a few minutes of running will do to an old motor. once you get it running, you can then determine if you need a valve job or a rebuilt motor. There are plenty of used motors on craigslist or here. dropping a 360 in is more work than you think with lots of supporting parts that may nickle and dime you past interest.
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I'd like to keep the slant 6. I'm got some diesel tech buddies who want to help me turbo it when I get a reman motor with forged pistons etc. I just hoped I could make the original motor run and drive even if it was s little smoky and slow so it wouldn't just be sitting til I build another slant 6. I was 5 when someone parked this old girl. So now, thanks to the info on here I'll get some rods. Clean this sucker out of the gunk in it. Try to get that head working decent again... hope I didn't get some piston slappage... and see if I can make her putter back to life. Another slant 6 was always the plan but in the mean time I thought I'd make her run again if possible and it's been a hell of a journey so far. Thanks guys. I'll keep you updated. Next weekend I'm going to get back out there
 
Like I said, there great motors, way under appreciated, and if you know the tricks there is some power to be had from them. I'm old school, I like cubic inches, but my 68 dart GT 225 slant car is a blast to drive, and the fuel mileage between that and my 340 car are not even comparable!
 
jtkaaa07 said:
Like I said, there great motors, way under appreciated, and if you know the tricks there is some power to be had from them. I'm old school, I like cubic inches, but my 68 dart GT 225 slant car is a blast to drive, and the fuel mileage between that and my 340 car are not even comparable!
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Some pics of head... gas tank swap and car when I bought it

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The down side for me is that no one my age is building these things anymore... they like imports or modern muscle and I'm usually on my own. My dad still comes out to school me every now and then cuz he always knows tricks to do stuff simple and easy after he let's me struggle for 3 hours lol. But I learn more that way. Hell even in high school I was the only one with anything from the 70s at all let alone was working on cars. We didn't even have shop class. Lol.
 
hey, that thing looks complete.. your 3/4 the way there! Yeah, that head needs some attention. Wanna challenge? Try getting the lifters out...Er, dont bother, just get some oil on that valve train and let her clean herself out. Here is another tip: put the oil pan under the oil filter before you unscrew it..
 
pishta said:
hey, that thing looks complete.. your 3/4 the way there! Yeah, that head needs some attention. Wanna challenge? Try getting the lifters out...Er, dont bother, just get some oil on that valve train and let her clean herself out. Here is another tip: put the oil pan under the oil filter before you unscrew it..
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Thanks lol I need to relocate that oil filter eventually. I don't like that spot. Hopefully there is a kit for that
 
you can put it up on the fender but it will drain back and you dont want that. ITs fine where it is, its just a messy job. The first ones had a canister style oil filter down there where you unscrewed the top like a pickle jar and removed the cartridge filter from the "jar of oil". no mess!
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I figure you are ahead of your school buds. life runs full circle. years, maybe decades from now many of your friends will want to experience what you are doing with this car right now. keep at it, you will eventually have a very cool car. it is already cool right now too!
too bad schools that don't offer a shop class. just as bad as a school that offers no ag classes or FFA.
 
No Ag or FFA? How about no music or PE? This one takes the cake: NO HOMEWORK!

Florida elementary schools ban homework

And when their Hondas blow up from a 50hp shot of nitrous and all that plastic body paneling starts to turn to dust, your steel car will still be kicking.
 
Mghampton said:
The world is just going crazy lol
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Every project I tend to get in over my head. But then I learn new things and am better for the next project. I wish I had more knowledge faster so Id have more skills faster and could get my projects done faster, better and cooler.
 
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