priming the oil pump

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I believe I found my issue. When we opened up the engine yesterday, we notice that the builder had used lots of black RFV when putting the engine together.

RE: the head bolt you're using in the hole where the oil passage is might be too big or does not have a taper on it to allow oil to get by the head bolt and up into the rockers on that side. If you're running head studs, that may very well be the problem.

I found that the head bolt hole had some RTV at the bottom.

Is there an easy way to test or do I need to put the engine back together?
Thanks,
Dave W.
 
Test the hole in the deck that goes down to the cam bearing. Use an air nozzle to blow air thru the hole in the deck, down towards the cam bearing. It's possible that the RTV could have stopped that hole up, or the oil hole in the head that goes up to the rocker arm stand. If air won't blow thru to where you feel it by sticking your finger in the bearing area, it is either stopped up with RTV or the cam bearing is turned wrong in its bore. Run a stiff wire down thru the oil hole in the 2nd rocker stand from the left (exhaust ports facing towards you) and see if it comes out the deck surface of the head. If he gobbed the head bolt up with RTV and it got pushed up towards the rocker stand by oil pressure, it could be stuck in that oil passage in the head. That rocker stand will have 2 holes in one place, is the only way I can think to describe it. The oil hole is kind of off to the side of the hole where the bolt that holds the rocker shaft down. It connects to the hole in the deck of the block, that goes down to the cam bearing. See what you can find, if the above makes any sense. Sometimes what I hear myself saying in my head doesn't equate to what my fat fingers type....lol.
 
Moparmase said:
I verified the oil plug by the distributor is installed. Also, I tried what rusty said about running the drill for 10-15 min. Still nothing. Any other suggestions why the drivers side didn’t getting oil?
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See post #51
 
Newbomb Turk said:
20 degrees is .4028 inches. So .400 thou would be plenty close enough.
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I took the dampener diameter (7.25") times Pi (3.1416) = 22.7766" circumference. divide that by 360 gives 0.0632683" for each degree & times 20 degrees would be 1.625" around the dampener. Am I wrong on this?
 
Rapid Robert said:
I took the dampener diameter (7.25") times Pi (3.1416) = 22.7766" circumference. divide that by 360 gives 0.0632683" for each degree & times 20 degrees would be 1.625" around the dampener. Am I wrong on this?
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check your math. I came up with .06326 x 20 = 1.2653
 
What do you get if you divide the circumference of a pumpkin by its diameter?

Pumpkin Pi.
 
4spdragtop said:
Nothing is written in stone with the camshaft/oil timing events. Mine were way different.
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Yup. The only reasons I could think of would be variations in where the oiling holes in the camshaft bore are drilled and how the camshaft bearings are clocked. Stack both of those tolerances together and they could be way different from block to block.
 
Yep, I think mine ended up being 28* difference on both ds and ps from Troy's 340 build.
I checked cam bearings and they were all good. When I was checking the oil flow, I got 40* of flow on each bank. Sounds like a lot(maybe it is), but with how quick these buggers spin, a squirt here, a squirt there lol.
Not sure if cam make/age plays a roll?
RustyRatRod said:
Yup. The only reasons I could think of would be variations in where the oiling holes in the camshaft bore are drilled and how the camshaft bearings are clocked. Stack both of those tolerances together and they could be way different from block to block.
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4spdragtop said:
Not sure if cam make/age plays a roll?
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...and there's the third tolerance. Where the holes are drilled in the camshaft. Stack all three together and you're likely to get very different results from engine to engine. Even the same engine with a cam swap. I think it's best at this point if you're building from scratch, mark the front of the block on the timing cover area where the holes are in the block. Then stick the cam sprocket on the cam and mark on the sprocket where the holes are in the cam. That way, you can line them right up for priming purposes.
 
I think it was wishful thinking on my part... There seems to be bigger issues. Bought an engine stand so I can remove the crank... More to follow... Dave W.
 
You've rotated the engine to different points, correct? I had this same issue before when priming a fresh 318, freaked out and called my machine shop. He told me to try rotating the engine, and low and behold oil started on the other head. Please try this before you yank the engine and tear it down.
 
DaveW said:
I think it was wishful thinking on my part... There seems to be bigger issues. Bought an engine stand so I can remove the crank... More to follow... Dave W.
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Dang, Dave. I hate that. :( I was hoping it would be more of a simple fix than that. Now it makes me wonder if they put the one set of main bearings in wrong.....if that's even possible. Hang in there, you'll get it fixed.
 
I haven't seen anyone mention this, but the driver side galley feeds from the number 1 main bearing. If you pull the cam thrust plate, there should be a core plug there. If the builder pushed it too deep, it will block oil flow from the main.
 
Update : took the engine apart and found a number of issues. The issue was the result of the engine sitting so long. Sludge in the oil pan, one piston with rings frozen on piston, dirty lifters,... etc... I'm trying to ID the cam, which is marked with MPJ with 3 blue dots. Is it a Mopar performance cam? Want to get the Cam Card for it... Dave W.
 
That sucks to hear, but now you know. Are there any numbers stamped on either end of that cam?
 
Towards the front of the cam, between the lobes, there is EP 18, also DI and CWC 1.5 with Red dot.

Towards the end of the cam, between the lobes, there is J6 with blue paint mark.

The very end of the cam has the M P J with the three blue dots. This is real faint.

Thanks Dave W
 
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