Progress finally ... (pics)

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MoparFan

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Hi, been a while since I posted something...I guess time is something hard to manage!!!

So this winter I have worked a lot on the interior of the car and tought I would share with you the result:
so the before, when I bought the car.
dash_bef1.jpg

dash_bef2.jpg

and now:
dart_int1.jpg

dart_int2.jpg
 
dart_int3.jpg

dart_int4.jpg

The seats are from a '7? Cordoba, and the power seat base is from a Buick LeSabre 86 or 87 (fit pretty well). The cluster is from a Dart 74, so the light and wiper sign are ligthing up. Also the wiper switch is from a 74, so I now have the washer fluid on that same switch. :) I found the black Dash pad for 50$ and it is almost perfect, I just shoot it with a vinyl paint to restore it. Now it has two small crack in the corner, probably because I most have tighten too much the screw :banghead:
 
I also modified the cluster... temp and fuel moved. Volt and oil psi added, new amp gauge.
dash_dart5.jpg

messy on the back of the cluster...
dash_dart6.jpg


...and I need to replace the radiator, buy and install headers ... and enjoy it.
 
Thanks for the reply...
Here is what it looks in the dark (Photo is not really clear).
cluster_ligth.jpg

I have put LED around the speedometer and for the Temp and Fuel gauge, the bug in that setup is the difference in the colors.
 
Looks real good. Let me ask you;

You had to cut the metal backside of the dash to fit the gauges? And whats behind the panel. I also want to do something similar.
What size gauges are they?
Do you have or can I get the schematics for that electrical layout on the dash. It's like my Magnum. That thin flexable plastic that holds the electrical pathways.
You welded, er sodered right on that to tap the current?

Thanks.
 
Thanks for the good words on the modifs.

rumblefish360 said:
You had to cut the metal backside of the dash to fit the gauges? And whats behind the panel. I also want to do something similar.
What size gauges are they?
Yes I had to cut the metal backside the fit all 3 gauges. They cluster fit well, as far as know, in the dash even with these thing sticking out. The oil and Amp gauge are 1.5" (link small gauge) , the voltmeter is 2" (link volt gauge). The 2" voltmeter was just the perfect depth to be fix on the inside of the metal back piece, and fit with the face of the cluster.
(these are "cheap" gauge, but I did not had the money for Autometer ... so better then nothing)
detail_mounting.jpg


rumblefish360 said:
Do you have or can I get the schematics for that electrical layout on the dash. It's like my Magnum. That thin flexable plastic that holds the electrical pathways.
You welded, er sodered right on that to tap the current?
It is a panel with printed circuit that I have cut to allow the voltmeter installation. Then I jump the signal and ground (5volts limiter, the gray box in the middle top of the circuit) to the new path. I solder rigth on the printed circuit it works really great.
Here is the original:
detail_back2.jpg


and then the modifs:
detail_routing.jpg



I hope this help.
 
Hey thanks. I now see a bit better. The plastic that carries the electric from the IVR box and to the senders is cut. You then just jumped the gap with your wires and from there you can make whatever connections you need. It doesn't matter if positive is now negitive because of the re-wireing is set up for the gauge.

I'm going to have to look at it a bit more. Iron it out in my head. The lights to the gauges are 12v right? Hooked up to the dimmer? The gauges are 12v. So you skipped over the IVR voltage being only 5v's ?
 
lookin good man, when you have some extra dough if it were me id swap the gas and temp guages that way everything looks correct :)
 
rumblefish360 said:
The lights to the gauges are 12v right? Hooked up to the dimmer? The gauges are 12v. So you skipped over the IVR voltage being only 5v's ?

Yes the lights are 12v, and I connected them to the same circuit (on the printed circuit) as the existent cluster light, so that way they get control by the dimmer also.
The voltmeter is connected (soldered) also to the printed circuit where 12v is running when contact is ON. So you get a cluster that you can remove easily.
The Fuel and the Temp gauge are (as far as I know) the only one to use 5v.

OldVart said:
Excellent work and photos MoparFan! C'est parfait!
Thanks all for the good words ... and Merci
 
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