Progression Ignition's programable distibutor initial review.

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jbc426

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I installed the new distributor from Progression Ignition in my RB based stroker motor a few days ago, and wanted to post a bit of feedback on my results with it. I had been running an MSD Pro-billet locked out and set at 35*. My 10.2 to 1 aluminum headed motor loved that setting, never hard started hot or cold and ran very well like that.

I wanted to run vacuum advance to enhance my steady state cruising efficiency on the open road. I'm running a Passon & 4.10's and 28" tall Nitto Drag Radials. I was a bit surprised at how often the vacuum advance kicks in around town too.

Their distributor looks high quality and incorporates a MAP sensor that can also be used on boosted engines. It has the GM style spring loaded "L" shaped arms that hold the cap down. I opted for the male style terminals, so my MSD wires would plug right back on. The flattened, drive tab that fits into the intermediate shaft at the bottom of the main shaft is at least twice as long as the stock or MSD distributor. I run a lock ring on mine to limit the intermediate shaft's drive gears up and down movement, so I only got about 1/5th of that collar onto the round portion of the shaft. The rest is on the flattened drive tang. I loctited it and think it will never move anyway.

Their distributor is also about 1/2" longer overall. That puts one of the spark plug wires up into my Shaker base plate. I had to do a little massaging to get the base to sit flat on the top of the carbs again. No big deal, as It can be reversed if needed.

Translating the kPa readings to actual vacuum readings takes a minute to adjust to because you have to add in the actual barometric pressure and subtract engine vacuum from it to get a reading. My set-up idles at just over 10" of vacuum and has 23-24* vacuum at cruise rpm.

I used their app to generate a few initial tables, but per their tech guy, they are rather conservative as one might imagine. Better to reduce the risk of engine damage for the masses. I have since modified that timing table to better match what I had been running with the MSD. You have to look carefully as the RPM graph is not linear, but it is very easy to get used to their interface. The numbers on the left side column are the kPa readings.

So far I have not heard any detonation, and I am using a bit less gas pedal to cruise than I was using before. I' still have some fine tuning to do, and I will check my mileage again to see if it has improved. So far, I like it a lot, and recommend it to guys who are not taking advantage of a vacuum advance feature on their mostly street driven Mopars.

I have my idle set at 950 by the way. When the motor is running, a highlighted ball travels around the table below to show you where it is running in real time. It's a helpful guide in learning how to manipulate the table. I've also noticed I'm getting a bit more wheel spin in 2nd gear, which may very well mean I'm getting a bit more torque out of the motor. It usually is hooked up hard in that gear.

More to follow for the longer term...

Progression Ignition.jpg
 
Any further review or feedback on this distributor?
 
One thing that concerns me about any of this kind of stuff is that you really need to buy TWO. One for the trunk, for parts...................
 
I am very tempted to give it a try. Was hoping for some first hand reports.
 
I installed the new distributor from Progression Ignition in my RB based stroker motor a few days ago, and wanted to post a bit of feedback on my results with it. I had been running an MSD Pro-billet locked out and set at 35*. My 10.2 to 1 aluminum headed motor loved that setting, never hard started hot or cold and ran very well like that.

I wanted to run vacuum advance to enhance my steady state cruising efficiency on the open road. I'm running a Passon & 4.10's and 28" tall Nitto Drag Radials. I was a bit surprised at how often the vacuum advance kicks in around town too.

Their distributor looks high quality and incorporates a MAP sensor that can also be used on boosted engines. It has the GM style spring loaded "L" shaped arms that hold the cap down. I opted for the male style terminals, so my MSD wires would plug right back on. The flattened, drive tab that fits into the intermediate shaft at the bottom of the main shaft is at least twice as long as the stock or MSD distributor. I run a lock ring on mine to limit the intermediate shaft's drive gears up and down movement, so I only got about 1/5th of that collar onto the round portion of the shaft. The rest is on the flattened drive tang. I loctited it and think it will never move anyway.

Their distributor is also about 1/2" longer overall. That puts one of the spark plug wires up into my Shaker base plate. I had to do a little massaging to get the base to sit flat on the top of the carbs again. No big deal, as It can be reversed if needed.

Translating the kPa readings to actual vacuum readings takes a minute to adjust to because you have to add in the actual barometric pressure and subtract engine vacuum from it to get a reading. My set-up idles at just over 10" of vacuum and has 23-24* vacuum at cruise rpm.

I used their app to generate a few initial tables, but per their tech guy, they are rather conservative as one might imagine. Better to reduce the risk of engine damage for the masses. I have since modified that timing table to better match what I had been running with the MSD. You have to look carefully as the RPM graph is not linear, but it is very easy to get used to their interface. The numbers on the left side column are the kPa readings.

So far I have not heard any detonation, and I am using a bit less gas pedal to cruise than I was using before. I' still have some fine tuning to do, and I will check my mileage again to see if it has improved. So far, I like it a lot, and recommend it to guys who are not taking advantage of a vacuum advance feature on their mostly street driven Mopars.

I have my idle set at 950 by the way. When the motor is running, a highlighted ball travels around the table below to show you where it is running in real time. It's a helpful guide in learning how to manipulate the table. I've also noticed I'm getting a bit more wheel spin in 2nd gear, which may very well mean I'm getting a bit more torque out of the motor. It usually is hooked up hard in that gear.

More to follow for the longer term...

View attachment 1715525536
Tried to PM you but your inbox is full. Would you please provide an update on how your PI setup is working after a few years of use? I have a 440 with Trickflow 240 heads and cast aluminum valve covers and am wondering if I would have any fitment issues.

Any info you can provide would be really helpful to me as well as others considering this!
 
Let’s try this. @jbc426. He should get this as he was on here yesterday at 10:16 am.
And now, the rest of the story...

Let me preface this by saying I was running my timing locked-out at 35* for years prior to wanting to add vacuum advance to my RB.

I also have overdrive and 4.10's on 28" tall 325/50x15's. I though that vacuum advance would enhance my operating envelope, however it resulted in a broken piston ring land and 2 blown head gaskets with erosion damage to several aluminum head surfaces.

What happened? Detonation. The low rpm on the freeway combined with this additional advance from the vacuum advance lead to significant engine damage. There was no detectable noise, knock or other indication it was even occurring, but when I got home, the white smoke from my exhaust told the tale.

piston2.jpg


piston3.jpg


piston4.jpg


piston5.jpg
 
And now, the rest of the story...

Let me preface this by saying I was running my timing locked-out at 35* for years prior to wanting to add vacuum advance to my RB.

I also have overdrive and 4.10's on 28" tall 325/50x15's. I though that vacuum advance would enhance my operating envelope, however it resulted in a broken piston ring land and 2 blown head gaskets with erosion damage to several aluminum head surfaces.

What happened? Detonation. The low rpm on the freeway combined with this additional advance from the vacuum advance lead to significant engine damage. There was no detectable noise, knock or other indication it was even occurring, but when I got home, the white smoke from my exhaust told the tale.
So the unit performed as you programmed it but you had too much advance? Anyone can put too much advance whether it is a mech distributor or the PI. Sorry for your loss.
 
Well,,,,you had 35 locked in,,,,,so at idle or wide open,,,it’s at least 35 .
Then you add a vacuum can that adds ,,what,,,,another 20 maybe ?

Sounds like a recipe for disaster .

Sorry for the damage,,,,but it can be fixed,,,it’s only money !

Tommy
 
Well,,,,you had 35 locked in,,,,,so at idle or wide open,,,it’s at least 35 .
Then you add a vacuum can that adds ,,what,,,,another 20 maybe ?

Sounds like a recipe for disaster .

Sorry for the damage,,,,but it can be fixed,,,it’s only money !

Tommy
Truly. The Progressive Ignition app allows from 0 degrees on up for adding vacuum advance plus control of whichever vacuum it is set at and reacts to. In my case, it was adding less than 10 degrees. The root of my problem was even that is too much at lower engine speeds. I think I may have gotten away from such damage if I didn't have overdrive, but what do I know.
 
Truly. The Progressive Ignition app allows from 0 degrees on up for adding vacuum advance plus control of whichever vacuum it is set at and reacts to. In my case, it was adding less than 10 degrees. The root of my problem was even that is too much at lower engine speeds. I think I may have gotten away from such damage if I didn't have overdrive, but what do I know.


Were you looking at the plugs?? If so, did they show any signs of distress?

Getting cruise timing correct is not that easy, even if you are doing it digitally.

In my experience as power goes up you need less timing at low loads than you would will less power.

I guess saying it another way a dead stock engine from the era we are talking about will tolerate much more cruise timing than that same engine that has been modified.

Rather than adding in 12, 15 or a bit more VA timing with a stocker the modified engine may only want 6-8 degrees of VA timing.

And that 6-8 degrees will make a big difference in performance on the modified engine.
 
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