dibbons
Well-Known Member
They'll be painted with some combination of rattle cans I have around here after a rust reformer.
Project "Chihuahua" '65 Formula S Restoration "Estilo Mexicano"
- Thread starter dibbons
- Start date
-
dibbons
Well-Known Member
Before (above) and after overnight soak in Evaporust (below) In this case, a two-hour soak was not enough time.
Last edited:
dibbons
Well-Known Member
The OSPHO messed with the finish on the window mechanisms (photo #1). This is OK because the primer and paint will adhere that much better. The self-etching RustOleum primer seems to be an almost army green (photo #2).
Last edited:
Great build dibbons! You are dedicated to detail and it shows. I am waiting to see what you do on the quarter panel upper stainless trim as far as clips. I have clips but the sealing gaskets on those clips are pretty much gone on some. I remember last time I painted my '65 Barracuda I RTV'd the holes on the top quarter panel completely shut. Once cured I cut a slit with razor blade and slipped those clips in. Seemed to work but it would be nice to find the correct new clips. I have some leads but seems a bit of work to verify. Best of luck to you on this build!!
dibbons
Well-Known Member
That's why that stainless is not installed yet, still waiting for some inspiration on a way to attach and seal correctly.
I think I saw on here Laysons had a clip GZ-88148 that is supposed to fit. But the picture did not show a sealing gasket on the clip. Not sure if they still have them. @Rick@Laysons
dibbons
Well-Known Member
I have a thin of 2 inch wide rubber strip I am thinking of cutting up to make individual "gaskets" for each slot. I have all the original clips (but one is broken).
For the upper quarter panel peak molding, our customers with the '66 Barracudas have had good luck with the following "molding bolt", part# GZ-3281, $3.95 each, 10-24 x 5/8” - will fit for many applications - will work for 1966 Cuda quarter panel peak mldgs..
You can use a little dab of "dum dum" putty to seal the clip upon installation.
These clips are in stock.....
Thanks,
Rick
You can use a little dab of "dum dum" putty to seal the clip upon installation.
These clips are in stock.....
Thanks,
Rick
@Rick@Laysons
I think he has a 1965. I think they are different than '66, right? I am also looking for new clips that seal on a '65. But I do not want to jack this thread. Thank you. I've said enough here I think. : )
I think he has a 1965. I think they are different than '66, right? I am also looking for new clips that seal on a '65. But I do not want to jack this thread. Thank you. I've said enough here I think. : )
For the 64-65 Barracuda, and the 65 Valiant......
GZ-88148 would be the correct clip....
GZ-88148 would be the correct clip....
dibbons
Well-Known Member
Update: Back to follow-up post #278, these are the window mechanisms de-rusted and painted. Ran low on RustOleum professional black the the driver's and passenger sides are different colors (not so easy to mix 'em up that way).
dibbons
Well-Known Member
Update: Coolant temperature (at idle) just keeps creeping up little by little, 190° then 200°, then 210°, then 220°, then I start to worry. Getting ready to test-fit the two-piece metal radiator shroud we fabricated (photo one). Those are "toilet paper" cardboard tubes placed over the radiator hose connections for a little protection while moving things around. Still have my doubts whether or not this shroud will cool things down. Paid $5,000.00 Mexican Pesos parts and labor (about $285.00 USD). Using a fixed six-blade fan for now (photo two). Vehicle had factory a/c (not presently installed). I believe this is a representation of the factory shroud for a 22" radiator (photo three). Still trying to determine if this vehicle had a thermostatic fan of some kind when new.
Last edited:
dibbons
Well-Known Member
Update: Filled radiator and ran the motor to operating temperature a couple of times (the second time after shutting down I noticed some coolant spewed out of the overflow tube onto to ground). The temperature seems to have normalized at 195° without climbing any further, but this was in neutral and not in drive. I hope this is an indication the shroud is living up to its true potential. After it has proven itself, I will remove it for final painting (for now it only has a coat of OSPHO).
Richard Sweet
Well-Known Member
Install a coolant overflow container and you won't have to refill the radiator unless there is a leak in the system. If you have a transparent container, it will make diagnosis easier because you can see how much overflow there is each time you run the engine. It will automatically siphon back into the radiator as it cools off. You can monitor the cooled coolant level in the container and ad coolant as needed to the unpressurized recovery container. If you use a radiator cap with a pressure relief lever, you can safely release the pressure before removing the radiator cap if necessary.
dibbons
Well-Known Member
Would I need to change to a different style radiator cap when the overflow tank is installed?
Richard Sweet
Well-Known Member
Not usually. You still choose the pressure limit of the cap you select.
dibbons
Well-Known Member
Went to a local car show on Sunday June 3rd. Was "awarded" a participation certificate for best "project car". Spouse pointed out a slight rattling noise with the engine idling which I, for some reason, decided to ignore. After the show, I noticed I could wiggle the cooling fan just a bit. I decided to order a water pump from Rock Auto (the Dayco brand pump arrived yesterday marked "Made in China").
The vehicle was factory equipped with A/C and when I removed the ten-year-old plus water pump, I realized it had the six blade, 3.5 inch diameter impeller (remember in a previous post I was worried about coolant temperature climbing when stopped in idle). After one initial test with the fabricated radiator shroud, it seemed the idle coolant was maintaining at 195 degrees, but I had wanted to test it further but did not have the opportunity.
I don't know if the installed water pump pulley (5 3/4" diameter) is proper for an A/C or non A/C vehicle? Anyway, Rock Auto sent an eight blade, 4 1/8 inch diameter impeller which will have to do for now. I am collecting, slowly but surely, factory A/C parts which some day I will get around to installing.
The fixed-blade, six-blade fan is 17" in diameter.
The vehicle was factory equipped with A/C and when I removed the ten-year-old plus water pump, I realized it had the six blade, 3.5 inch diameter impeller (remember in a previous post I was worried about coolant temperature climbing when stopped in idle). After one initial test with the fabricated radiator shroud, it seemed the idle coolant was maintaining at 195 degrees, but I had wanted to test it further but did not have the opportunity.
I don't know if the installed water pump pulley (5 3/4" diameter) is proper for an A/C or non A/C vehicle? Anyway, Rock Auto sent an eight blade, 4 1/8 inch diameter impeller which will have to do for now. I am collecting, slowly but surely, factory A/C parts which some day I will get around to installing.
The fixed-blade, six-blade fan is 17" in diameter.
dibbons
Well-Known Member
The crank pulley is between 6" and 6.25". Doing the math with the water pump pulley @ 5.75" it seems the water pump is slightly overdriven 1.04/1.08.
dibbons
Well-Known Member
Here is a little reference "chart" I made to summarize the water pump bolt lengths I'm using. I imagine this will vary depending on one's particular brackets/accessories. Second photo is a chart I found online.
Last edited:
dibbons
Well-Known Member
Shroud and new cast iron water pump were primed with RustOleum liquid rust restorer in a bottle (using brush). Then pump was spray painted with RustOleum high performance black and shroud with RustOleum high heat black.
dibbons
Well-Known Member
Update: Bucket seat track springs. My fabricator bent the ends of some store purchased springs to "match" the ends of the broken factory springs. Also made a connector to replace the broken wire that is driven by the seat adjust lever.
dibbons
Well-Known Member
Update: Dash circuit board had some busted pins. Replaced it with aftermarket version. Ammeter bypassed for now (don't trust older wiring). I have already installed two mechanical gauges, oil pressure on the cowl and water temperature on the dash below the radio and above the center console. The oil pressure warning light sensor was removed when installing the oil pressure gauge (may tie it back in at a later date when/if I get motivated). Ordered some piggyback old school glass tie in adaptors so I can connect the lamps for the two aftermarket gauges.
The A/C heater box is not installed yet and so I used a heater outlet at the water pump to connect the coolant sensor. Most of the A/C parts were removed/lost by previous owners. I am slowly but surely collecting the factory pieces back again.
Will test later this week to see if I can bring back to life the factory electric fuel and coolant temperature gauges. Yesterday, I thought the blue high beam indicator lamp was not functioning, but last night in the dark I tested again to find it was illuminating after all.
I saw a video yesterday of a '65 Formula S that had a courtesy lamp under the dash as well as on the two on the rear sail panels. I see I have the wiring for that lamp and so I will make an effort to install it back where it belongs.
The speedometer seems to be frozen up. I found the factory inner cable to be twisted and broken as a result. I still need to replace the cable and rebuild the speedo (ATF is also leaking where the cable exits the transmission case).
The A/C heater box is not installed yet and so I used a heater outlet at the water pump to connect the coolant sensor. Most of the A/C parts were removed/lost by previous owners. I am slowly but surely collecting the factory pieces back again.
Will test later this week to see if I can bring back to life the factory electric fuel and coolant temperature gauges. Yesterday, I thought the blue high beam indicator lamp was not functioning, but last night in the dark I tested again to find it was illuminating after all.
I saw a video yesterday of a '65 Formula S that had a courtesy lamp under the dash as well as on the two on the rear sail panels. I see I have the wiring for that lamp and so I will make an effort to install it back where it belongs.
The speedometer seems to be frozen up. I found the factory inner cable to be twisted and broken as a result. I still need to replace the cable and rebuild the speedo (ATF is also leaking where the cable exits the transmission case).
Keith Mopar
Mopar Nut
My 65 Barracuda did come with the rear courtesy lights in the back and an under dash light as well.
Good luck with the rest of the pending stuff.
Good luck with the rest of the pending stuff.
dibbons
Well-Known Member
Update: I did some testing on the fuel and temp gauges. I did not know if the source voltage on the wires that connected to the sensors would be 12 volts or 5 volts. With a voltmeter connected to the end of the sensor wires (on the sensor end) and ignition "on", I found a pulsing volt reading with a maximum of 5 volts in both cases (kind of like a heartbeat-voltage varied up and down). Turned off ignition.
Then I simply grounded the end of each sensor wire (one by one), then turned the ignition to "on". In both cases, the needle rapidly rose to the maximum "full" or "hot" indication. Then I turned the key off and disconnected.
I tapped the vehicle fuel tank with the palm of my hand, sounded pretty hollow (empty?). I added between 4 and 5 gallons gasoline that I had stashed in a spare gas can in the garage. Turned the key "on". The needle slowly began to creep up on the fuel gauge, but it stopped on the very first line, which would mark empty in most circumstances. When I add more gasoline later at the station, I hope to see the needle go farther up to the full mark or thereabouts.
Then I primed the factory AFB carb with a little gasoline and fired up the old 273 (actually now a 318 block thanks to a previous owner swap). I warmed her up to an indicated 190 degrees on the aftermarket mechanical coolant temp gauge. The factory gauge on the dash rose correspondingly and read about 1/3 or the way up. That should work!
In conclusion, thanks to the replacement circuit board, the dash background lights now work and so does the turn signal green arrow, the high beam indicator, the coolant temp gauge, and hopefully the fuel level gauge. Oil pressure idiot light probably works too, but the sensor is not installed (due to the mechanical gauge line taking its place).
I suppose eventually I will install a volt meter to replace the bypassed factory ammeter gauge. Not sure where to measure the voltage yet, at the battery terminals or somewhere more remote?
Then I simply grounded the end of each sensor wire (one by one), then turned the ignition to "on". In both cases, the needle rapidly rose to the maximum "full" or "hot" indication. Then I turned the key off and disconnected.
I tapped the vehicle fuel tank with the palm of my hand, sounded pretty hollow (empty?). I added between 4 and 5 gallons gasoline that I had stashed in a spare gas can in the garage. Turned the key "on". The needle slowly began to creep up on the fuel gauge, but it stopped on the very first line, which would mark empty in most circumstances. When I add more gasoline later at the station, I hope to see the needle go farther up to the full mark or thereabouts.
Then I primed the factory AFB carb with a little gasoline and fired up the old 273 (actually now a 318 block thanks to a previous owner swap). I warmed her up to an indicated 190 degrees on the aftermarket mechanical coolant temp gauge. The factory gauge on the dash rose correspondingly and read about 1/3 or the way up. That should work!
In conclusion, thanks to the replacement circuit board, the dash background lights now work and so does the turn signal green arrow, the high beam indicator, the coolant temp gauge, and hopefully the fuel level gauge. Oil pressure idiot light probably works too, but the sensor is not installed (due to the mechanical gauge line taking its place).
I suppose eventually I will install a volt meter to replace the bypassed factory ammeter gauge. Not sure where to measure the voltage yet, at the battery terminals or somewhere more remote?
-
