Project "Chihuahua" '65 Formula S Restoration "Estilo Mexicano"

[dibbons]

Update: No more John Deere green. Painted the sway bar RustOleum "colonial red" (same as fuel tank) and installed. Still need to tighten down the end links some more. Had to pry down on the end links with a long wood stick used as a fulcrum lever to get enough threads to start the nut.

 

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Update: Temporarily installed the dome light housings in the sail panels.

 

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Update: Installed a leftover Thermotec sheet to the "no man's land" area behind the rear seat after snapping in three 1 inch floor plugs and routing the fuel tank sensor over, down, and out (with original rubber grommet).

 

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Update: Added a triangular piece to the passenger side motor mount bracket to accommodate the later 318 block (1979 casting) and now we are able to mount it to block with three fasteners in place of the former two.

 

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Update: "Test Fit" the motor to verify the oil pan change to the "394" would not bump the K member and would provide the proper relief necessary for the steering link. Also wanted to double check to make sure the motor mounts and brackets were fixed in the right orientation. As far as I can tell, the 394 oil pan is the same shape as the unmarked factory '65 273 oil pan. The later 318 pan that the previous owner used had a conflict in clearance with the steering link (was missing a clearance relief).

 

[dibbons]

Update: I decided not to install the transmission and motor together. Motor is ready and waiting outside (photo #1). I will install the correct commando valve covers after the motor is in place.

This morning I drug the 904 (sans convertor) under the vehicle and slid it onto the platform I made for the floor jack (photo #2). I just barely got enough lift to connect the transmission mount. Never fails, I always have to tap/hammer that fourth and last transmission crossmember bolt through the hole (photo #3).

There is very little room to connect the transmission cooler lines; I'm hoping that won't be a big problem now. I am also waiting for a new speedo cable which will have to be inserted with the transmission fixed in place.

 

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Update: After installing the transmission cables to the floor shift, I see we are not engaging first/low gear. The shifter won't move past second (I know the shifter has a spring/detent there, so it's not operator error).

.

 

[dibbons]

Update: The A/T mechanic that rebuilt the 904 came out to the house today (about a 20 minute drive for him, gave him $25.00 USD for gas money). He helped me adjust the gear select cable. Someone previously had covered the adjustment wheel with silicone and I spent over an hour yesterday removing most of it (first photo shows silicone after having it been painted white).

Second photo is before the adjustment where the lever was unable to reach low gear. Third photo is after the adjustment and which we hope did the trick, all gear detents seem to be in order now.

 

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Update: Engine installed (318 block with a casting date of 1979 was rebuilt about 10 years ago and uses a 1966 273 four-barrel intake manifold). Original commando black crinkle valve covers, original AFB and original chrome air cleaner still to come. I decide to scrape off some paint from the torque convertor dust shield around the bolt holes when I feared the starter motor might not find an electrical ground. I have a small braided cable to run from the right cylinder head to the firewall.

 

[dibbons]

After I painted the exhaust manifolds and header pipes, the header paint ran out. I had some BBQ paint laying around so going to paint the rear of the exhaust system with that (blowing too much money lately). After washing the 10 year-old TTI system with citric cleaner and a scratch pad, applied Naval Jelly in a couple of spots, applied Ospho (brushed off the residue after it dried), and now the BBQ paint.

 

[moparmat2000]

While the "Chihuahau" is in the body shop, I am working on a few side projects. Glove box liner(s) fabricated at the local stainless steel restaurant welders. Material is 18 gauge SAE type 304 SS. Two are for my Formula S and '65 Valiant Signet convertible. Third is a sample just in case this idea catches on and we go into a small production run.

View attachment 1715154717

That's slick, you should make a few and put em up on fabo. I bet they will sell

 

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Update: Fabricated a battery tray to replace the butchered/patched stock piece. The "floor" is separate from the frame and just drops in (and it covers up two holes drilled in wrong location). Lower factory brackets retained. Still need to paint it. No worry about future acid corrosion or damage because battery will be AGM style.

 

[Clelan]

That looks really good!

Cley

 

[dibbons]

Update: I avoided sand-blasting the rear sheet metal piece that covers the floor behind the rear seat. However, I did resort to an abrasive wheel to remove the carpet adhesive on one side, and scuff up the paint on the other side.

After the Ospho and Rust-Oleum rust reformer, went with a Rust-Oleum enamel flat black (just to save my gloss black for items that may be seen).

 

[Keith Mopar]

Great progress, I wish my 65 Barracuda project was moving along as well as your is.

 

[dibbons]

Sandblasted the rust on the inside of both bumpers. Then one coat of Ospho followed by one coat of Rust-Oleum rust reformer, and finally the Rust-Oleum gray primer. That dent will have to stay, at least for the time being.

 

[RustyRatRod]

Gotta hand it to you. Your color scheme is anything but mundane.

 

[dibbons]

Update: I took the effort to completely disassemble the seat tracks. We needed to press out one of the threaded studs before the sliding balls could be removed. Usual: sandblast, Ospho/Rust Reformer, primer, top coat.

 

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Update: After three years off the road, two brake cylinders froze so we replaced all four. I refinished one front drum that I suspect was a little out of round the way it was scraping the brake shoes off and on when spinning the tire. Front wheel bearing races and bearings replaced as well. The transplanted 8 3/4 rear end brakes do not have self-adjusters (and the transplant differential uses later model wheel cylinders with smaller threaded fasteners compared to model year 1965).

 

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Update: The T nuts on the trunk divider did a number ripping through the 1/2" plywood over the years (foto #3). My local carpenter made a reproduction, including the proper cut-out for the spare tire (fotos #1 & #2).

 

[dibbons]

Update: The last couple of months I have been on/off crutches thanks to a knee problem. After rest/therapy I will be slowly getting back into the swing of things (notwithstanding a relapse). Attached the rear bumper rubbers. A factory shouldered bolt for the corner pieces was broken, so I substituted a hard plastic tube cut to size and some new bolts with insert type locknuts. I imagine the factory shoulder on the bolts was to prevent over squishing the rubber.

With respect to the two "boomerang" shaped pieces, each was split at one of the two screw holes. I did not see that as a problem and installed them as is. I don't plan on ever using a bumper jack (don't have one) so those rubbers won't have much in the way of a functional role that I can foresee.

 

[65 Dartman]

Sorry to gear about your knees; I have big issues with my hips so it’s slow going as well.

i like your idea on the bolts; I’ve lost one of my bolts so your solution will also work for me on my wagon

 

[dibbons]

Update: Fuel Tank install. At first the filler tube was being stubborn, then all of a sudden it slipped in (used creamy hand cleaner that has the consistency of very soft butter for a lubricant). I hope it doesn't leak, the gasket is about the same age of the tank (10 years old). The tank was previously John Deere green, I have since repainted the bottom of the tank red. The filter sock came off the pick-up and I did not replace it because I did not want to extract (remove and replace) anything else. Too many stories about how repro stuff does not seal the pick-up outlet properly so I left it well enough alone.

The gas tank strap has slack in it where it passes under the center of the tank. In other words, the holding pressure seems to be isolated to the corners of the tank (even though I pressed hard on the center of the strap to push it up against the bottom of the tank during tightening). I had to loosen the strap and push the tank back not quite 1/4" when I found the filler tube was just a tad too far forward. When I tightened the tank down a second time, I placed a small piece of cork gasket on under each corner of the tank under the strap. I'm a little surprised the tank doesn't use two hold down straps; I guess an economy move by Chrysler.

The metal fuel line from the body did not line up with the small line coming from the tank. Must have gotten bent/tweaked during the restoration. Used a tubing bender over and over again to get it almost lined up. Installed a "repro" grounding strap that straddles the rubber fuel hose.

 

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Fuel tank vent install. A little tricky trying to figure out some way to make it fit. On one end of the vent tube, the factory hole is restricted to not much bigger than a pin hole. I made sure to run a small wire through there to insure it hadn't rusted closed completely. I had a small spring metal clip left over (in my hand in photo) that I have not found a place for yet.

I re-used the factory foam gasket that cushions the filler tube to where it attaches to the quarter panel. I forget to put the chrome cover "dress up" over the filler tube before installing the tank. I thought it could be slipped on afterward because it has a slit cut all the way through it. However, it is very stiff and did not want to bend far enough open to slip it on after the fact. Being the fact the filler tube is painted white, we really won't miss it for now.

The vent tube seems to be an oddball size. If you ask me it is bigger in diameter than 1/4" and smaller that 5/16". I might be mistaken though. I used a short piece of oversize 5/16" fuel line to connect, since I had cut the stubby factory hose (which fit correctly) during disassembly.

 

[Clelan]

Looking good! Thanks for the update! I really enjoy this thread.

Cley