Pros an Cons: SBP v LBP

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KramerSwinger70

70 Dart Swinger360
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my car is currently a sbp /6 70 dart. 9" OE drums all around. i have in my side yard an 8 3/4 (unknown open gears) w/ lbp axles. i want disc brakes up front. the only wheel i want is either what i have or a mopar ralley so aftermarket rims, i could care less. are there any other reasons why it is better to go LBP over SBP? is handling better? is it cheaper to swap over to discs in front? thanks for any input in advance!

-ryan
 
It will be easier to find LBP disc stuff than SBP stuff.

Of course the larger 1/2" studs are stronger than 7/16" studs but the smaller studs are not a problem with our cars. My Buick GS Stage-1's I used to own had 7/16" studs and never broke one of them.

Chuck
 
LBP offers greater part availability at lower cost. Greater wheel selection. Greater reliability (unless you upgrade to stainless pistons in the calipers, then it is the same).


SBP Discs don't really have any advantage over LBP other than being correct in a restoration.
 
If you are happy with and wanting to use te SBP wheel you have now there is no reason to change at all. I think Willwood brakes come drilled for both SBP and BBP. But am not 100% on that.
 
The only pro for small disc is if your going for points in a restoration

other then that the big bolt has all the pros

cheaper
wheel selection
easier to get the parts
larger ball joint
 
what is the best and cheapest set of front discs? are they LBP? as far as correct restoration, i dont really care. im putting a 360 into the dang thing and jus makin it look like a Swinger 340. i want to restore the car as much to era correct but i want the mechanics of the thing to be more modern. better handling, more economical, but with a vintage feel. so i guess its a renound "Change to LBP" from the majority of my FABO brethren(and sistren?).

now then, since i currently have original 9" drums on all corners, i also have an 8 3/4 w/ 10" drums (which i want for the rear). given that, what is the EXACT parts list i need to change to LBP discs? do i need to go find 10" spindles and just get a kit or is there a better way? im looking for the quickest and cheapest swap possible.

Also, when i get to this point in my project, is there anyone local with knowledge about this swap willing to help? Thanks!

-Ryan
 
I would guess (yeah, I'm guessing) the cheapest route to front disk would be to find an F, J, or M donor car and get the spindles and caliper anchors. You'll need to step up to the large ball joint at the point. Get the calipers and master while you're there and use the old ones as cores for new ones. Rotors, pads, calipers, and master can be had new/reman for this swap from any of the parts houses.

Going by current pricing with list on most of these parts, including what a junkyard will sell you the parts for possibly $300 invested in the fronts, give or take. If you want to jump up to drilled and slotted (yes, there are out there) and ceramics then you're talking substantially more.
 
On a car that came equipped with OE drums, it is likely better to convert to the LBP, for all the reasons mentioned in the earlier replies. You are CONVERTING from Drums, as opposed to already having SBP discs.

With the drop in prices of SBP rotors, and calipers (all available through Centric), the prices for these two parts are now in line with LBP parts.
Look at the threads over the last three weeks and you will see prices for SBP disc rotors as low as $21 each (Centric manufactured). Calipers are also available from Centric for ~ $60 before discounts.

If you go LBP, you have to factor in the cost of adding LBP wheels - you will have a lot more choices in LBP compared to SBP. None the less, if you are running SBP today, you will have to budget for LBP replacement wheels.


A good rule of thumb is: If my car has SBP drums, always go to the LBP disc conversion, with one small caveat: Stick to SBP ONLY IF you can get the SBP disc spindles, and other suspension SBP disc pieces at a low price...which then allows you to stay with SBP wheels...

I would NOT worry about making your car just like a factory 340 Dart ...make it the way you are happy with, and that you can drive and enjoy...!
 
well how hard are sbp mopar ralleys to come by? as i said, those are the only wheels id change to. otherwsie, if i swap, id get the same wheels i have, but LBP
 
For SBP kelsey set up I found reman calipers for 68.00 each now rotors are down to 21.00 each. I bought a set of 4 rallye sbp wheels complete in really good condition for 225.00. I have seen others advertised for 200-500 depending on condition. If youre not in a hurry you can find deals.
 
I'd go LBP factory setup since you already have a LBP 8 3/4 rear. Use the disc system from a 73 up "A" body is best, Upper control arms, Knuckle, Proportioning Valve, Master cylinder and all. Anything is better than your 9" brakes.
 
One thing I didnt see mentioned in the parts needed is the combination valve. Yes he will have to change out the master cylinder (drum/drum is equal size, drum/disk is a bigger reservoir on one side than the other in the master cylinder) which is easy to get at Napa, etc., but he will also have to change out the combination valve, wont he? Otherwise the proportioning will be for all drums instead of drum/ disk, which keeps the drums from locking up first. I think Inline is the only place I have heard people say has the valve - I know Napa doesnt have it cause I asked them for it to use in my changeover. Unless someone knows different?
 
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