PT Cruiser timing belt Question

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rustytoolss

rustytoolss

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I know that this is not the place to ask about PT Cruisers. But the information I get from this site, is form people I trust.
Now for my question...When replacing the timing belt on a 2.4 PT Cruiser engine. Do most people ALSO REPACE the 2 idler/tensioner pulleys ??
If I can safely replace just the water pump and belt, I can save some money (keyword SAFELY). But for as big of a PITA as this job is/ I sure do not want to do it twice.:banghead:
So has anyone had any problems by NOT replacing the idlers...that bit them in the A$$ down the road ?
 
rustytoolss said:
I know that this is not the place to ask about PT Cruisers. But the information I get from this site, is form people I trust.
Now for my question...When replacing the timing belt on a 2.4 PT Cruiser engine. Do most people ALSO REPACE the 2 idler/tensioner pulleys ??
If I can safely replace just the water pump and belt, I can save some money (keyword SAFELY). But for as big of a PITA as this job is/ I sure do not want to do it twice.:banghead:
So has anyone had any problems by NOT replacing the idlers...that bit them in the A$$ down the road ?
Click to expand...

How many miles on your Cruiser? If it had 50,000+ and you were planning on keeping it, I would replace the water pump and idler/tensioner. It's not a fun job to do twice.
 
Do the idlers. I've been down this road on my neon. It's not worth doing a bunch of ball bearings through your belt. That breaks belts, You know.

Second hot tip: DO NOT use a parts store water pump. Go to the dealer, get a NEW mopar water pump, grin and bear it. A locked up water pump will break timing belts thus bending valves and ruining your day. Don't get the mopar remanufactured pump, either. NEW MOPAR ONLY.

please please please trust me on this. I do a lot of 2.0/2.4 and a LOT of broken belts in the salvage yard are caused by crappy water pumps, as well as a steep learning curve on my own vehicles.
 
I wouldnt do it with out doing it all seen to many people not take the advise to do all when i had my shop Back in New Zealand. number of them would return soon after due to the noise or a complete fail. $150 for the kit is cheap insurance given it can stuff a head if they fail being interferance valves pig of a job at the best of times on those dont wouldnt want to do twice. Id spen the extra and do the hydralic tensioner as well rather than reusing.
 
jos51700 said:
Do the idlers. I've been down this road on my neon. It's not worth doing a bunch of ball bearings through your belt. That breaks belts, You know.

Second hot tip: DO NOT use a parts store water pump. Go to the dealer, get a NEW mopar water pump, grin and bear it. A locked up water pump will break timing belts thus bending valves and ruining your day. Don't get the mopar remanufactured pump, either. NEW MOPAR ONLY.

please please please trust me on this. I do a lot of 2.0/2.4 and a LOT of broken belts in the salvage yard are caused by crappy water pumps, as well as a steep learning curve on my own vehicles.
Click to expand...

Some good advice right there!
 
The car is a 2002/ has 87,000 miles now. We usually only put on about 6,000 miles a year. I would like to get another 3-5 years out of this car. At what point do the belts and pump usually need replacement ???
 
I have a 96 Neon 2.0 DOHC with 250k, Still has the original hydraulic tensioner and bearing. I've changed the timing belt twice. I have a second DD Neon with about 200K, one belt change with original hydraulic tensioner and bearing. Will I guarantee you will be safe, by not changing it? No. I can only tell you what I have done. I always replace the water pump with a New Mopar pump.
 
66fs said:
I have a 96 Neon 2.0 DOHC with 250k, Still has the original hydraulic tensioner and bearing. I've changed the timing belt twice. I have a second DD Neon with about 200K, one belt change with original hydraulic tensioner and bearing. Will I guarantee you will be safe, by not changing it? No. I can only tell you what I have done. I always replace the water pump with a New Mopar pump.
Click to expand...

I don't want to dump a ton of cash into a 13 year old disposable car. I don't mind buying a mopar water pump. My overall plan is to replace the car. Infact if I can get say 1-3 years out of it without replacing the pump and belt. I may do that.
I'm retired and we usually only put about 6-7 thousand miles on it a year.
 
rustytoolss said:
I don't want to dump a ton of cash into a 13 year old disposable car. I don't mind buying a mopar water pump. My overall plan is to replace the car. Infact if I can get say 1-3 years out of it without replacing the pump and belt. I may do that.
I'm retired and we usually only put about 6-7 thousand miles on it a year.
Click to expand...

I'm not sure, but what is the recommended service interval? It is 105,000 miles on the Neon. I'd drive something you think will replace it with. You may want to hold on to it longer.
 
buy the whole kit and do it right. Don't want to do this sooner than you need to.
 
Once you tear into it, you will see why some guys short cut the job. The rear timing cover blocks the water pump, and its a major pain to get everything out. The best advise I can give, is to replace it all, and......if you unbolt, or at least loosen all the motor mounts, you can ratchet strap the engine over to the drivers side, to gain a little bit of clearance. That extra 3/4 inch will be a godsend, trust me!
 
Unplug the engine computer plug. If I remember its around the master cylinder area. It will allow the engine to tip a bit more and if you don't the computer plug area gets broken.

I'd put everything in. Its not a fun job the 1st time around so why do it again. I have seen to many failures here at the shop reusing things.

Only thing I think is to get the water pump in you have to pull the cam gears off to get rear plastic shield off to get to pump bolts. Not 100 percent sure been a few years since I have done a 2.4
 
jos51700 said:
Do the idlers. I've been down this road on my neon. It's not worth doing a bunch of ball bearings through your belt. That breaks belts, You know.

Second hot tip: DO NOT use a parts store water pump. Go to the dealer, get a NEW mopar water pump, grin and bear it. A locked up water pump will break timing belts thus bending valves and ruining your day. Don't get the mopar remanufactured pump, either. NEW MOPAR ONLY.

please please please trust me on this. I do a lot of 2.0/2.4 and a LOT of broken belts in the salvage yard are caused by crappy water pumps, as well as a steep learning curve on my own vehicles.
Click to expand...
hit the nail on it's head !
 
I'm not familiar with that engine. I could type all day about similar experiences with others. Instead, just one, my 96 Camry. This timing belt at a local part store is available in 3 mfgrs and prices. I bought the most expensive assuming it was the best quality ( time will tell ). No store could find a source for bearings to renew the idlers ( 1 tension , 1 fixed ) so replacing them wholly was my only choice. new water pump wasn't terribly expensive but buying all the pieces separately was adding up.
Replacing the oil pump also is where the cost got disturbing. So... I went to Ebay to price a oil pump. I found I could have saved money by buying a kit through ebay that included every piece. Too late for that since I already bought most of it in pieces.
I did buy the oil pump from ebay. I found that some chinaman didn't position this casting properly in the machining fixture. The bolt pattern was fine hole to hole but wrong to the perimeter of the casting. It wouldn't mount up against the block correctly. At that point I was very glad I didn't buy the kit. 20 minutes extra work with a file and its all together and working fine.
I guess what I'm saying is,
When buying all the parts you need, buy quality.
Be glad there aren't even more parts required .
 
IIRC the book calls for 104 or 150,000, BUT I've had personal experience with several friends cars loosing theirs between 94,000 and 96,000

I did mine (or had it done, as it would have taken me a week or more) at 92,000.

A week later the new serp belt went, and month after, the serp belt tensioner went.

I'd do all that you can while you're in there, and I second using quality parts.

There are a few things on these cars that absolutely DO NOT work if you use aftermarket, one prime example is the crank sensor. Went through three different ones (at the mechanic's expense) before they listened to me and bought an OEM one.
 
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