pulling a slant 6 out without the tranny attached

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Vali68

Vali68

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i plan on removing the cracked blocked slant 6 in my 68 valiant and I want to leave the tranny in the car because the motors casting numbers checkout that they both match this tranny. I will leave the converter in the tranny as well. So when I dis-connect the motor from the tranny, should i support the tranny at all? Will the front end tend to want to fall down when the bolts holding it to the motor are removed?

Whats the process? Does anyone have a written process?
 
Yeah, you'll definitely want to support the transmission when you pull the engine away. It PROBABLY won't drop when you unbolt the engine/flywheel, but will when you pull it forward away from the converter. So I'd strongly suggest a floorjack with a piece of plywood as big as the transmission pan between the jack and pan to distribute the weight. Once the engine is out you can bold a 2X4 across the front of the trans and resting on the frame/suspension. I'vce also seen pictures of wire running from the top trans bolt holes looped over the wiper studs, but I've never done that.

Good luck.

PS - I'd also suggest a shop manual or Haynes manual to give you an idea of the overall process.
 
It is easier to remove tha transmission first and then the engine. It is also a lot easier when installing to put the engine in first and then the transmission.

If you are set on leaving the transmission in the car make shure to support the front end of the transmission. In a suitable location put some kind of clamp to keep the converter from coming out. It is very easy to destroy the small tabs driving the oilpump in the transsmission if the converter is not in the correct position when pushed in. This can happen if the converter is not fully in when mating engine and trans.
Remove all bolts that connect engine and trans, raise engine with a hoist, add support under front end of trans move engine forward. Use a prybar to get engine and trans apart, should not take to much effort if trans is supported.

Reverse for installation. However it takes more work to match upp engine and trans.
 
How do I remove all the tranny fluid to prevent it from making a big mess if i pull both the tranny and motor at the same time? I could possibly pull the motor out and then drop the tranny out as well.
 
Get "flare plugs" at a hardware store to cap off the tranny cooler lines. If you don't remove the torque converter, the front won't leak. Still, I would first pull the pan and drain the oil & change the filter, unless you did that recently.

First put a metal strap on the torque converter to hold it fully in and help support the weight. The Haynes manual shows that. It is critical that you insure the pads on the torque converter are >1/2" back from the front of the case before bolting to the engine. If not, keep rotating and jiggling it until BOTH SHAFTS fall into place. Otherwise, you will destroy the front pump in jamming them together. I missed that in my dumF kid days (should have bought a manual). If you switch to a later engine, you may need a spacer ring for the cranshaft hole (read).
 
I like to make a sling with a 1'' ratchet strap. Go from torsion bar to torsion bar with the strap under the bell housing next to the front of the tranny pan. Tranny stays in place, no mess.
 
It's fairly easy. Take the transmission inspection cover off and/or the starter out. Make a mark on the flywheel and torque converter so you know the correct positioning to put it back in. There's only 4 bolts holding the innards together so if you're doing it through the starter hole, just remove the bolt, turn crank...remove the next bolt and so on. I like to use the jack or jack stand with a 2x4 method but you can also be ghetto and just use bungee cords to hold it up if you can find an attachment point above the transmission. It's fairly well supported already so it doesn't take a ton of support to keep it held up. I wouldn't remove the tranny or torque converter unless you absolutely have to.
 
Pull them both together. Remove radiator and fan, hoist from the front threaded boss on the head (rear balances them together, neato!) grab with as little chain showing as youll need to hoist it pretty high to clear the fender/rad support. Harbor freight sells tranny plugs, or get an appropriately sized aspirin bottle (tylenol capsules was perfect) and slice the top off and slide in in, then duct tape it so it doesnt slip out or big mess will ensue. Where are you located? I got a good 170 short block ready to go sitting in my garage....Tustin. Murietta? Dang, that's 40 minutes from me.....
 
i have a 225 motor i am going to put inside it. I'm just in the process of going through it and want to know the method i need to look forward to.
 
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