Pulling Engine/Trans over the winter....Header Question??

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wkroncke17

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All,
I'm planning on pulling the Engine/Trans together soon to get trans 100% and update a few things in the Engine compartment.
Question is - with the TTI Headers, will they be able to be left in place while I pull the Engine/trans out?
Years ago I'm pretty sure I remember pulling them out and leaving in the old Hooker Super Comps.
At almost 60 years old, I find myself doing as much research as I can to make things go smoother - this site is a God send for that!
Thanks in advance everyone!!

Wally.

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All,
I'm planning on pulling the Engine/Trans together soon to get trans 100% and update a few things in the Engine compartment.
Question is - with the TTI Headers, will they be able to be left in place while I pull the Engine/trans out?
Years ago I'm pretty sure I remember pulling them out and leaving in the old Hooker Super Comps.
At almost 60 years old, I find myself doing as much research as I can to make things go smoother - this site is a God send for that!
Thanks in advance everyone!!

Wally.

View attachment 1716329052

On a small block I’m not sure Wally. I know on a big block B-body they need removed to get the trans out.
 
My Barracuda used to be my 4-seasons DD.
Every September long weekend, I'd pull the 367, and drop in a stock 318 for the winter. Come May long weekend, I'd swap the 367 back in. Sometimes the A833 trans came out with the engine/sometimes not, and many times I'd run an automatic in the winter. I did this routine for at least 5 winters, until I started making enough money to buy a nice winter beater.
The headers always stayed in the car.
I just used Tarp-straps over blankets to keep them from getting tangled up. BTW, this is also why my underhood is painted black, for easy paint touch-ups.
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One time;
I built a nice supportworks, and dropped the engine/trans down thru the bottom. That worked real good. But it didn't save me any time. Down went great. Up not so much.
Never did it again.
If I have to do it on the floor, I take the trans down first.
But mostly, I used a 4-post hoist.
-------------------------------------------------------
Here's a tip for taking the hood off. It's the method I use.
1) open the hood, install a cut-to-fit wooden 2x2 strut to hold the hood up., taking the weight off the hinges.
2) Assuming the hood is lined up in the first place; mark the position of the hood hinges. I drilled 1/8th holes thru the hinges into the hood pads, for ease of line-up later.
3) loosen the 4 bolts and slide the hood down. remove the 2 rear-most bolts. You may have to install blanket-bumpers at the pointy corners, to keep them off the body.
4) Blanket the core support, remove the wooden strut, lower the hood onto the blanket.
5) Clean the roof of the car, and cover it with a blanket, then remove the remaining 2 bolts.
6) get a helper
7) lift up the hood, carry it away from the car, flip it upside down, then carry it back and lay it on the roof.
Badaboom!
8) yes, 20 years ago I didn't need a helper. But I also didn't worship my car and was not afraid to scratch it, which never happened anyway. At 71 now, I wouldn't try it.
9) wheel in the cherry-picker and hang the load leveler.


EDIT, from Post 13
I have a Milodon 8qt Roadrace pan; 30940, with the Side bump-outs. and Yes, I notched my K-member for ease of removal. this only took a couple of modest cuts.
 
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All,
I'm planning on pulling the Engine/Trans together soon to get trans 100% and update a few things in the Engine compartment.
Question is - with the TTI Headers, will they be able to be left in place while I pull the Engine/trans out?
Years ago I'm pretty sure I remember pulling them out and leaving in the old Hooker Super Comps.
At almost 60 years old, I find myself doing as much research as I can to make things go smoother - this site is a God send for that!
Thanks in advance everyone!!

Wally.

View attachment 1716329052
Do you have an oversized aftermarket oil pan or a stock replacement center sump style?
On mine I have a 360 with a Milodon 7 quart oil pan. There was not enough room to get the engine and transmission in without getting stuck between the k-frame and the trans tunnel. I had to separate mine and do the engine from the top and then the trans from the bottom. Then once they were in place I have to lift the engine back up while connected to the transmission to get the left side header in place from the bottom.

I have smaller tubes than yours because I am using Doug's headers.

This would be a good time to start taking everything out the bottom on the k-frame. For me too next time, maybe. Although I am used to separating them.
 
Do you have an oversized aftermarket oil pan or a stock replacement center sump style?
On mine I have a 360 with a Milodon 7 quart oil pan. There was not enough room to get the engine and transmission in without getting stuck between the k-frame and the trans tunnel. I had to separate mine and do the engine from the top and then the trans from the bottom. Then once they were in place I have to lift the engine back up while connected to the transmission to get the left side header in place from the bottom.

I have smaller tubes than yours because I am using Doug's headers.

This would be a good time to start taking everything out the bottom on the k-frame. For me too next time, maybe. Although I am used to separating them.

Is that pan straight sided or does it have a kick out?

I’m pretty sure the last time I did a TTI header car the engine went in with the headers down in the chassis.

If the OP has a couple of weeks @MOPARMAGA and I have to swap engines in a Duster.

Then I’ll know for sure.
 
Is that pan straight sided or does it have a kick out?

I’m pretty sure the last time I did a TTI header car the engine went in with the headers down in the chassis.

If the OP has a couple of weeks @MOPARMAGA and I have to swap engines in a Duster.

Then I’ll know for sure.
Yes, the headers were in the chassis before dropping in the engine.
 
Is that pan straight sided or does it have a kick out?
Mine is the one that has the sides of the pan angled outward as is comes down. The one that interferes with the k-frame at the right front of the oil pan, and k-frame has to be notched to clear it. With all that shape the pan hits the k-frame on both sides and the trans is jammed up against the pinch weld in the trans tunnel at the cowl. With a 904 there may be just enough room to get it in with this oil pan but with a 727 like mine there is just not much room.
 
Wow guys this is all really good info!
Thank you all so much.
I have a 6 quart Kevko pan so it should squeeze by?
I’m going to give it a shot and be very careful using a lot of blankets and fender covers.
I’ll be sure to update everyone as I go along.
And as far as who’s better looking…….I got you all beat by a long shot! LOL
 
Wow guys this is all really good info!
Thank you all so much.
I have a 6 quart Kevko pan so it should squeeze by?
I’m going to give it a shot and be very careful using a lot of blankets and fender covers.
I’ll be sure to update everyone as I go along.
And as far as who’s better looking…….I got you all beat by a long shot! LOL
Well good luck. I would drop it from the bottom but if you pull both engine and tranny you'll need one of these.
https://www.amazon.com/YELLOW-JACKET-Leveler-Accessory-Adjustable/dp/B0CCJ4PGS2/?tag=fabo03-20
or
https://www.amazon.com/OrionMotorTech-4000lbs-Engine-Cherry-Leveler/dp/B01L8V9LP4/?tag=fabo03-20

Hoist2.jpg


Hoist4.jpg


Lift 2.jpg
 
If you don't want to drop it out the bottom. You can unbolt the headers from the heads and pull the engine and trans out the top.
 
If you don't want to drop it out the bottom. You can unbolt the headers from the heads and pull the engine and trans out the top.
I have had my motor in and out several times since going to TTI headers but I have never taken the motor out with them attached. The passenger side is pretty easy to remove from the bottom but I have left the drivers side in the chassis until the motor is out . I leave the trans in the car and don't take the trans and motor out together , I would think it would be really tight trying to take both out with the headers attached. Just a little tip : when putting the drivers side header in from the bottom if you raise the motor up high enough you can manage to squeeze the header in without taking the suspension apart like they state in the instructions. I am really not that happy with the TTI headers especially in a race car , the header brand I use to use no longer fit properly ( hang to low ) as I purchased a new set to replace the TTIs . I don't like how the TTIs fit to close to the trans , they are heavy , the holes on the flange that bolts to the head are too small making installation difficult , the only good thing is that I don't have to use a 90 degree oil filter adapter. I am looking at set of stainless steel headers but the don't make them the W2 head bolt pattern like I have .
 
Friend of mine dyno'd a 372" SBM with W2 heads. The TTI's were almost 10hp less that the Hookers. He said that the TTI's had too sharp of a bend close to the heads. But the Hooker's do hang very low.
 
I always bungy cord them to the top of the shocks and leave them in the engine bay.
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Friend of mine dyno'd a 372" SBM with W2 heads. The TTI's were almost 10hp less that the Hookers. He said that the TTI's had too sharp of a bend close to the heads. But the Hooker's do hang very low.
I believe it , I used to use Tubular Automotive brand headers
 
I used a load leveler for the first time when i put in my motor and it makes things soooo easy.. especially if you are alone trying to line things up.
 
Between the tube K and the expertise of REF slip fit headers I can pull these pipes out of the car by raising it maybe 5”. Race car stuff is ok sometimes

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Wow guys this is all really good info!
Thank you all so much.
I have a 6 quart Kevko pan so it should squeeze by?
I’m going to give it a shot and be very careful using a lot of blankets and fender covers.
I’ll be sure to update everyone as I go along.
And as far as who’s better looking…….I got you all beat by a long shot! LOL
Why are you pulling the motor? That bad boy hardly has any use on it and we know it's got 10 secs written all over it. Maybe you're pulling it to give to me?

I hope you get that trans fixed as I'm expecting some great numbers from your combo and that great new trailer you have!!
 
Why are you pulling the motor? That bad boy hardly has any use on it and we know it's got 10 secs written all over it. Maybe you're pulling it to give to me?

I hope you get that trans fixed as I'm expecting some great numbers from your combo and that great new trailer you have!!
I'd like to change a few things in the Engine compartment - brake lines, distribution block, wiring - basically to make it a little more sanitary looking.
Engine is fine - I'll have my engine builder stop over and pull the valve covers, double check valve adjustment.
I've found a shop nearby with a very good reputation for 727's/904's but it'll be a few $$ but worth it if it's right!
Great hearing from you, hope you're doing well! We're getting our first snow tomorrow morning, I'm sure you miss that!! :rofl:
 
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