Pure Magnum swap

-

JefftheComputerMan

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 24, 2011
Messages
123
Reaction score
11
Location
Texas
I'm starting this thread as a relative newbee to all this. I wanted to start a thread that is a magnum complete engine, EFI, all the sensors, ect into an abody. I hope to get many pics and gotchas included in this thread.

To be clear I'm taking a 1999 5.2 Magnum from a durango and swapping it complete into an abody.

I'm keeping everything from the original magnum engine and adapting it to a 1964 Plymouth Valiant which already had a 1976 5.2 318 and 727 torqueflite in it. The engine I got costs WAY more to fix than the $600 engine I'm replacing it with.

soooo... more to follow
 
the CPS is gonna be your big pita. On the a500/a518 the bellhousing has a notch for the cps sensor. A 727 won't have that.
 
just finished this same swap in a 72 dart. used my 904 tranny. swap is simple, but time consuming if you do it right. streetdak and player1up has done it. plenty of good info on their threads. if I can help let me know. dave.
 
Good luck with it. I'm still working on mine. Dropping it in is a relatively simple process. Grind a notch in the trans. bellhousing, elongate a flexplate bolt hole, then attach engine to chain hoist!
Currently, I'm working on the fuel and exhaust systems. I used the original ECM, PDC and wiring harness. I would recommend using the PDC just to simplify the wiring and also to rewire headlights, fuel pump, etc. I took the opportunity to rewire my ign. switch and remove the ammeter from the original wiring. That way you can use the alternator wiring already in the new harness.
My engine came from a 2001 Ram and had the big airbox on top of the throttle body. I used the Durango throttle body air hood and attached a cone-style K&N filter. You shouldn't have that problem, but it's difficult to find a good place for the stock air box in the engine compartment.
Don't know about your existing radiator, but on mine the original waterpump lower connection was on the driver side. I had to find a different radiator. I'm also looking at going with an electric fan setup.
I haven't gotten to the serpentine belt yet. Mine doesn't have power steering or air.
 
I did this swap 20 years ago and used everything from a 1993 Dakota pickup and use all my stock gauges except the amp gauge found a volt meter to fit into my stock one find a HOT ROD Maz. Nov. 1999 book and you will see it in there. I made my own wiring back then and everybody thought I was crazy. I have done the 3.9 swap and some other ones but I was 20 years younger then.
 
I'm using my stock gauges, except for ammeter. I read in several forums about the problem with the alternator current going through the bulkhead connector and with the BIG splice under the dash. Even to the point of overheating and causing fire. I thought it would be a good opportunity to go ahead and rewire that situation. Plus, by using the PCM, all of that is fused. I still retained the original fuse panel under the dash for heater and wipers, dome light, instrument lights. Most of the lighting goes through the PCM now, utilizing the relays and separate fuses.
I'm not sure at this point on what to do with the water temp and oil press gauges. I think that the ECM uses those signals, especially the oil pressure.
 
Yep, I noticed the CPS Sensor when I tried to test fit the engine. Magnum exhaust manifolds may not work around this big old 727 with kick down linkage and such, But I have the PDC, ECM and all the wiring from under the hood.

I'm going with the 5.2 Mag cause I got a steal on a 1999 Durango with 42K on it. $600 for all! Drove an hour to get it and saw it run before we yanked it, so I'm pretty stoked to get it in mine! I will be getting lots of pics for other newbies like me so they will understand everything this swap will take.

Thanks everyone, I highly encourage paying a little to support FABO! Where else can you find hundreds of years of experience all in one place about 50 year old cars!
 
On your kickdown linkage, you're going to need the brackets off of the later transmission for the cable. The rod-style linkage is not going to work. On the Ram manifolds, I had some problems with clearance with the steering coupler for manual steering. I don't know about the power steering if that's what you have. I also cut the outer column housing back about 2 1/2". I tried notching the manifold, but that didn't work. Still working on the exhaust.
 
:banghead:WHOA WTF? I just removed the original flex plate from the magnum to measure which hole had to be elongated. I put it on the torque converter and it ain't even close to the right size! See pics.
This is supposed to be a standard 727 with an unidentified torque converter (see pics) what the hell can I do with this?

Only one bolt is screwed in and look how far off center it is! The others don't even reach the edge of the flex plate:angry5:
 

Attachments

  • IMAG0138.jpg
    83.4 KB · Views: 1,038
  • IMAG0139.jpg
    38.6 KB · Views: 1,040
  • tc3.jpg
    51.2 KB · Views: 1,045
  • tc4.jpg
    41.4 KB · Views: 1,041
  • tc5.jpg
    14.8 KB · Views: 1,036
  • tc6.jpg
    68.8 KB · Views: 1,059
Here's a picture of my torque converter with the bolt hole marked for the elongated flex plate bolt hole. Can you rotated the flex plate around so that three of the holes match? Seems I had to match up the three and then do the modification on the fourth hole. I don't have pictures of the flex plate mounted, sorry.
Also, you can see the notch that you have to grind in the bellhousing for the CPS.
 
Maybe you got a B/RB trans n convertor. Did you measure your spread and the diameter of the boltholes. 3/8 for small 7/16 for big. Plus the bellhousing for a B/RB is a touch wider.
 
Ok I went and got the original flex plate from my engine guy, he works the same crazy hours as me!
My original is the Plus shape and the Circular is the magnum.(See pics)
As you can see, I can't even drill the magnum to fit my TC. It's just too small a diameter to fit this.
 

Attachments

  • IMAG0144.jpg
    68 KB · Views: 974
  • IMAG0143.jpg
    88.1 KB · Views: 980
  • IMAG0142.jpg
    84.2 KB · Views: 1,010
  • IMAG0141.jpg
    69.6 KB · Views: 1,003
  • IMAG0140.jpg
    72.6 KB · Views: 1,024
I'll get my 318/904 flexplate out tomorrow and do some measuring. Like I said, three holes lined up and I just elongated one hole with a drill bit. Mine is a 904.
I think funwithfuel probably has the answer.
 
My 727 bolted right up to my magnum flex. Best part is I'm using a 5.9 which needs external balance. Magnums balance the flex plate not the convertor. So I / we can use a neutral balance convertor.
 
Man its been a long time since i did any engine swaps and old timers has took a hold but it seems like there were 2 different size bolt patterns..I remeber having to go through flex plates to math converters,i think i remember but i'm not sure,i beleive bill clintons going to give the state of the union tonight..
 
My 727 bolted right up to my magnum flex. Best part is I'm using a 5.9 which needs external balance. Magnums balance the flex plate not the convertor. So I / we can use a neutral balance convertor.

If you don't have the flex plate, B&M makes one for this right?
There listing stops at '99 or '00 I think it was.

I have an '03, 5.9 and ordered that plate. I hope it works.
 
I'm fairly sure that whole filing trick was specific to us 904 users. The 727 people have the B&M option

also, i believe the magnum 318 is still internally balanced, so a regular 318-727 flex plate should work
 
Got a transmission shop getting me a 10.75" bolt pattern 2200-2800 stall converter... Should work.... To Be Continued:prayer::prayer:

Considered getting the Durango trans and while the 4 or 5 speed would be AWESOME, that opened a new can of worms ( Mounts, driveshaft length ect ect...) So I got all these worms all over the place....

So I figure I don't need any more worms....
 
Yeah - Can of worms is right! If you try to do this on a budget, you're screwed! LOL I have patched a fuel system together, now going on to exhaust. I didn't want to go with headers, but I'm reconsidering. I'm also restoring an old tractor, so I took a couple of weeks off from the car. Burned out!
 
i found hoses way cheaper than radiators, just tell the guys at whatever auto parts place... they will let you find one.
 
OK NOW WHAT? I just got Torque Converter in, measured holes, and am about to reinstall flexplate. Look at what I see as a small problem.... This forum says, just bolt up old 318 oil pan to magnum....:wack:
 

Attachments

  • IMAG0162.jpg
    27.5 KB · Views: 875
  • IMAG0163.jpg
    29.9 KB · Views: 874
  • IMAG0164.jpg
    33 KB · Views: 896
No.... I think it says to bolt up 360 LA oil pan to magnum. On the old LA motors the 360 and 318 were different oil pans. On the magnum they are the same. But, you will have to get a pan for a car, not a truck. This is a center sump, the one I bought. No shipping cost.
You will also need to get a center sump pickup. I used my old 318 oil pump since it had very low miles since rebuild.

JEGS Performance Products#555-50272
 
Jeff, do yourself a real favor and look up threads by streetdak and badass71. Streedak does a magnum swap from a Jeep Grand Cherokee to a Dart. Can't remember the donor for badass71 on his Dart. He also does a 50's Mopar. These are pretty much the bibles on magnum swaps. There is a tremendous amount of information and detail in these threads. Player1up, AAADave, Jbc426 have all been extremely helpful to me. Good Luck!

If I can help, PM me and I'll see what I can do.

BTW, I think streetdak's and badass71's are in the members restoration sections, maybe not. do a search on their user names.
 
-
Back
Top