Pure Magnum swap

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Jeff - where you been? Are you still working on the swap? I think I have my exhaust manifold issues resolved. Been working on a tractor restoration. LOL Give us an update!
 
Buy a set of Summit headers, a 2 1/2 " full exhaust and a Milodon center sump oil pan and matching pick-up. It will help if you have your own Mig welder.
 
OK back to hotrodding this thang! I've got the oil pan jegs# (had to massage the drivers side about 3/4" to clear steering. PICS later, this new phone, wtf, can't just download stuff anymore. I'm still rocking it
 
OK Motors in!!!! And almost cranking! I have read all over the place this wiring is HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
From StreekDak
"Wiring the PCM is SUPER easy, it's like a stereo. One constant power, one switched power and one ground and it'll fire up. I spent weeks looking over the diagrams thinking it HAD to be more to it than that. There isn't, provided you have the right wires hooked up and didn't butcher the donor harness."

WHAT WIRES? i've been reading everything and NO ONE has said what wire is +12V all the time and what is Key On +12V!!! I have only the under hood wires, and can't find what to plug hot and switched!
 
Slow down there Pilgrim! Tell us how you're doing this. Did you take the PDC (power distribution Center/fuse box) or are you just wiring into the PCM/ECM harness? If you're doing the latter, you need to get pinout diagrams of C1, C2, and C3.
 
I was reading and trying to figure out all this and realized the neutral safety switch wasn't hooked up on the old engine, just grounded. This wasn't my main problem, but I want to try to cover as many gotchas as I can in a newbie thread.

Starter is pretty easy except you need to ground black/white on PDC coming off of the starter relay.
 
jeff, if your using the original pdc ( big relay box) your constant hot is run from the batt. to the front of the pdc, next to your alt. in wire. on my 01, switched power is light green with white tracer, and fuel pump is light green with black tracer. have my pump grounded at the rear of the car. let me know if I can help out further. dave.
 
It would be a lot easier to pm 393four eyed freak and get a harness from him.Plug and play ...................................Jeff
 
aaadave said:
jeff, if your using the original pdc ( big relay box) your constant hot is run from the batt. to the front of the pdc, next to your alt. in wire. on my 01, switched power is light green with white tracer, and fuel pump is light green with black tracer. have my pump grounded at the rear of the car. let me know if I can help out further. dave.
Click to expand...

I concur with Dave! LOL
 
tiltsix said:
It would be a lot easier to pm 393four eyed freak and get a harness from him.Plug and play ...................................Jeff
Click to expand...

That's probably true, but there are a lot of advantages to using the donor wiring harness and PDC/fuse panel. Your starter/solenoid and alternator wiring is in the PDC and harness. But, the biggest advantage is you can rewire your lights and fuel pump through the PDC panel utilizing the power relays. I also made my own ignition switch power harness to do away with the original mega splice under the dash.

The biggest advantage to using the donor harness and PDC is it puts your fuse panel in a very accessible location. We old farts don't have to get down and stand on our heads to get to the original a-body fuse panel. That's worth the extra effort!
 
I'm way too deep in costs for this car already, I won't pay for a custom harness that only connects 4 wires. They are grounds, light green/black +12 KEY ON (to the Auto Shutdown) (there are TWO of them) starter +12 to the YELLOW of the starter relay and light green / white +12 always hot. THX aaadave!
 
Now i'm dealing with intermittent spark, most likely the Crank Position Sensor, I sheared off the original while mating the trans. $50 lesson learned, put a pair of vice grips gently on the sensor (after cutting a notch in trans bell housing for it) and it kept it from cutting wires. I replaced the coil, distributor cap, and plugs.
 
Send us some pictures, Jeff. It sounds like you're moving right along!
 
JefftheComputerMan said:
Now i'm dealing with intermittent spark, most likely the Crank Position Sensor, I sheared off the original while mating the trans. $50 lesson learned, put a pair of vice grips gently on the sensor (after cutting a notch in trans bell housing for it) and it kept it from cutting wires. I replaced the coil, distributor cap, and plugs.
Click to expand...

LOL, I can laugh at that because I broke mine when I put the engine in...I also had intermittent spark because the sensor was broken off the mounting tabs... doh!!

Does it start then die, or sputter when running? If it's a PCM with security it'll start for about 5 times and die, then wont start ever.
 
I've decided that a 200.00 dollar intake and a carb will add 5 years to anyone's life if they want a magnum..... :)
 
Just wondering - In my case, I looked at it and decided instantly that it was going to be a complicated matter, and I have a pretty extensive background in electricity, electronics, computers, and cars. The most complicated issue with the wiring is learning to read the new-style wiring diagrams!
Plus, I rewired the lights, fuel sender, original fuse panel, and ignition switch. So much for doing one thing at a time! LOL
It's really very simple to wire up. There just happens to be many ways to do it, depending on how far you want to go. Don't let us discourage you from the fuel injection. Just ask AAADave!
 
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