Pushed her home yesterday

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chewy

Some old guy...
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Finally got around to changing both pairs of points and the condenser yesterday. Previously I had a pair of points that wouldn't dial in closer than 28 degrees. Initial setting was 0.19", New nos mopar points, One side dwell was 33, the other was 32. Combined at 37.

Took her around the neighborhood, ran well, then out of the neighborhood and romped on it, died when shifting to second, and then coasted back into the neighborhood. A few guys in the neighborhood helped me push her back to the driveway.

No spark, Not sure what's up yet, gonna pull the distributor today and figure out what's amiss.
 
Barring any obvious shorts or bad connections, my first inclination would be the condensor- fifty year old condensors may have issues (brand new Chinesium condensors have issues, too- pick your poison there). Disconnect the condensor and check for spark; it may not run great but if it runs at all that's the problem. 5 minutes and you'll know.
 
He says he can't get the dwell where he wants. I am suspicious. Either the dwell meter is AFU or the distributor shaft is bent/ bad bearings. etc or worn out distributor cam, which is rare.

I would double check with a feeler gauge. Or double check find a different dwell meter. And, are you ABSOLUTELY sure you had the dwell meter correctly set (6 vs 8 and reading correct meter scale?)

Did you lube the points rubbing block? Did the points "wear" shut?

I agree, tho with the distrust of condensers (capacitors/ caps) I do not use OEM style caps in my outboards. I use plastic AKA "orange drop" plastic film style.

Contrary to internet/ yewtoobe "wisdom," YOU CAN NOT test caps with an ohmeter. You MUST have a high voltage source (100-200V for automotive caps) to do a leakage test. A leaky cap will ALSO read artificially high in capacity. This means that if it is actually low in capacity, it might read "OK". Leakage (lack of it) is VERY important

Are you ABSOLUTELY sure you have the correct points? I don't know what the "fit" difference is, but not all Mopar dual points are the same. What by the way are we even working on here? Is this a Ford? What engine and what distributor, AKA Prestolite/ Accel, Mallory, or ????
 
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On a side note, you haven't LIVED until you've worked on an ancient "DuCoil." Two points, two coils, two condensers. One coil runs half the engine. You must carefully balance the points settings or half the engine will be out of time with the other.

Old Mallory Rev-pol is about as bad

ducoil2.jpg


ducoil1.jpg
 
On a side note, you haven't LIVED until you've worked on an ancient "DuCoil." Two points, two coils, two condensers. One coil runs half the engine. You must carefully balance the points settings or half the engine will be out of time with the other.

Old Mallory Rev-pol is about as bad

View attachment 1716331850

View attachment 1716331851
Ugh- I remember those, only had to deal with them once or twice. If memory serves, didn't Mallory offer something similar too?
 
The old.points were wore out. I put the in back in 2003. They only required adjustment a couple of times. That's where the dwell wouldn't set.
20241124_140424.jpg

The old points wouldnt allow for adjustment higher than 28 degrees, it warranted replacing them.

The dwell meter is fine and works like it has since the 70s, no it doesnt need replacing.
20241125_072619.jpg

The goal is 32 degrees on each side.The new points the dwell was near perfect with the initial gap set and required no additional adjustment.
20241124_131411.jpg

When replacing the points, The eyelet on the grounding wire fell off and I replaced it with a new eyelet.

20241124_140410.jpg

Distributor cam was lubed with a few drops of 20wt and a few drops added to the oiler as well.

Found the distributor cap tab loose, when I pulled it back out. That would onlu cause.slightly inconsistent timing.

Just found that positive side contact is now also grounded. When I find the cause of that the problem will be solved
 
The Brand New Echelin condenser has gone bad. Seems to have an internal short. I removed it and the positive side corcuit is no longer grounded.

Used to be you would buy blue streak or Echelin, because Standard made the ignition components for NAPA. The other Napa on this end of town has a condenser in stock, heading out to pick it up now.

Also saw the distributor gasket is broken and will get a replacement ordered

20241125_091019.jpg
 
Are you ABSOLUTELY sure you have the correct points? I don't know what the "fit" difference is, but not all Mopar dual points are the same. What by the way are we even working on here? Is this a Ford? What engine and what distributor, AKA Prestolite/ Accel, Mallory, or ????
20241125_091526.jpg

These are the NOS mopar points I got from @halifaxhops a while ago. the part numbers check out.

This is on the original 273 prestolite dual point for my 65 dart.
 
Don't remember the distributor gasket coming like this before.
20241125_111133.jpg

Guess the o ring can hang out in the gasket box.
 
Put it all back together and dialed the points in. 31 degrees on both sides now, between 36 and 37 total dwell.

Working great so far. Took her out on the freeway north of town and back and all is good.
 
If it is a dual point you want a metal base gasket to get a good ground, toss the fiber ones out.
I'd love to put a metal gasket in its place. It's had a fiber gasket for many years, and depended on the ground through the mounting bracket and bolt.

Do you have recommendations for a source or part number for the metal one?
 
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