Pypes exhaust
- Thread starter sublimeswinger
- Start date
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Mrpatel
512Dart
Fishy68: sorry i must have been thinking backwards
Mrpatel: i have thought alot about using a B-body gastank before,nice seeing that it seems to work right! did it fit with the stock A-body fillertube?
It appears to, It was already in the car when I bought it. The spare tire whell is now flat, but looks factory when the trunk is open.
Mine was a little tough to install. I did mine by myself, 2 1/2" in a 1968 Dart with Dynomax welded Ultraflow mufflers, started with the tailpipes and moved forward. After 3-4 hours of laying on my back and not a whole lot of progress to show for it I quit for the day. I had to spread the aft pipes on the "X" out a couple of inches. I used a floor jack to do that. I still had to fight with it a little but it ended up fitting.
I thought the part from the "X" forward would be the hardest due to havine Schumacher Headers, but that was the easiest part. I ordered Flowmasters 6 piece "S" bend set and only used the 4" offsets to mate up to the headers.
Overall I think it took about 8-9 hours over 2 days and I had to make about 10 cuts to the pipes (I even had to cut the l/h tailpipe tip, it stuck out about 2 " longer than the right side. I would recommend renting one of those chain pipe cutters from the parts store unless you have a band saw.
Somehow after I tightened everything down, the right muffler got tweaked, I still need to address that. Also I bought some universal tailpipe hangers to weld to the tailpipes so as not to see the ugly clamps hanging down.
I thought the part from the "X" forward would be the hardest due to havine Schumacher Headers, but that was the easiest part. I ordered Flowmasters 6 piece "S" bend set and only used the 4" offsets to mate up to the headers.
Overall I think it took about 8-9 hours over 2 days and I had to make about 10 cuts to the pipes (I even had to cut the l/h tailpipe tip, it stuck out about 2 " longer than the right side. I would recommend renting one of those chain pipe cutters from the parts store unless you have a band saw.
Somehow after I tightened everything down, the right muffler got tweaked, I still need to address that. Also I bought some universal tailpipe hangers to weld to the tailpipes so as not to see the ugly clamps hanging down.
fishy68
Tyr Fryr's Inc.
Fishy68: sorry i must have been thinking backwards
No biggie Duster. It's easy to do when you read something on a board and try to picture it. Done the same thing myself many times.
fishy68
Tyr Fryr's Inc.
Once I get the tail pipes on I think this will be a real nice looking system and sound good too. Even without tail pipes it sounds better than the old crappy system it had on it.
pntastar69
Well-Known Member
Just wanted to let you all know, that that is my Dart on the link. I had just installed TTI's and called them about their systems. I'm about 45 minutes from their shop. They had never installed, nor had a customer, their tailpipes on an A body so we worked out a deal for them to install a complete system from the collectors back. Went w/the 2.5", x pipe, street pro muffs, and the turn down tails. They installed it all in their shop w/myself present. The TTI collectors were not used as they hung too low to mate up to the x-pipe. They fabricated the collectors there to get them closer to the trans x-member. All in all, everything fit nicely and I'm very pleased with the sound. Barely any drone and comes in nicely @2.3k rpm and up w/a mild 360.
Regarding the turn downs. At the time, that's all they had so I rolled the dice until I was ready to install the tips. Due to the bend in the tails aft of the tank, there was no way I could use the correct Acccurate 2.5" tips for a 69. They would have stuck out several inches from the bumper. I chatted w/Accurate and they suggested to go w/the 70 style tips as they are shorter than the 69's. Of course the L bracket didn't line up w/the hangar. Had to mount the hangar bracket to the rear panel under the bumper. I simply cut the turn downs off and left enough to slip in the tips and used band clamps to snug them up.
Again, I got a real good deal on the entire system and pleased w/their product. I called them back regarding the tip installation so don't know if they corrected it or not.
fishy68
Tyr Fryr's Inc.
Someone started a new thread asking about Pypes exhaust and it prompted me to post the final installment that I forgot. I took the Cuda to the exhaust shop and he re-bent the X pipe so it now clears the rearend and driveshaft fine. Went to install the tail pipes and the left one fit good but the right one was apparently bent wrong and hung down about 5-6 inches lower at the back so we had to take it back off and re-bend it. Finally after 2 full days of work and $100 at the exhaust shop I got it on.:evil:
pntastar69
Well-Known Member
crazy 340
Well-Known Member
thats what I have in 3 inches it fit great and I have tti headers
dont think it will fit great with the leaft spring move in
ps dont buy there race muffler they are cheap ya but cant
be run on the street way way to loud
Im gonna buy new dynomax this spring
fishy68
Tyr Fryr's Inc.
Excuse me but didn't you take your car to them and have them "Pypes" install your's custom? That's the way I read it. If that's the case you mentioned how it didn't fit right and they (Pypes) had to do mods to make things fit right. I have been a mechanic for over 25 yrs. and never buoght a worse system in my life. It never even came close to fitting my 68 Cuda right and my car is all stock except for Hooker headers. I expected to have to mod things to make it bolt up to the headers but not have to modify all but one piece to make this piece of crap system fit. IMO it's the worse fitting system out there. You got a good deal because you were the guinea pig. All us that buy it have to fend for ourselves.
Once I finally got the system on I like the sound of the Race Pro muffs. Not nearly as loud as a lot claim they are. The thing that gets me is I just wasn't expecting to spend $400 on a system then have to work 2 days fighting everything (which taking it to a muffler shop to have the X pipe and right tail pipe re-bent which cost an extra $100) to make it fit when it says it's a bolt on system.
i just finished installing summits 2.5" kit with a set of flowtech headers . headers were a PITA but the exhaust system fit pretty good . i had to trim the passenger side pipe off the header about 2" .i don't think that that kit will fit with the rear springs moved in though .
fishy68
Tyr Fryr's Inc.
Unless their TTI or Doug's headers their always a PITA on SB Mopars.
Figures I almost bought the Summit kit but thinking the Pypes kit should be better I went with it. I was just under the car yesterday and see the Pypes crappy stainless exhaust is already starting to rust. Less than 6 months on the car. Glad to hear your install went good.
alot of stainless exhaust that are cheap are cheap for a reason, they are kind of stainless. material is called 409 and is widely used in OEM applications, and is known to get a red/brown surface but will last a very long time.
in years past people sold and bought stainless of higher grade 304 as an example fully aware that they sold the good stuff.. then this thing "cheap" became very popular and alot of companys figured out that its almost stainless just not what people count on and since you cant make a lawsuit because of stainless that doesnt look like stainless they get away with it..
all stainless exhaust i make at work is 304 stainless,some people tells me that its expensive compared to brand X,W or Z or whatever i usualy just tell them that there is a diference betwen good stainless and the cheaper stuff..
fishy68
Tyr Fryr's Inc.
Yeah I realize the differences with cheap stainless and good pure stainless. I've used 409 too and know it's not as good but I haven't even seen 409 stainless rust this quickly. And it is rust, not discoloration. After all the trouble I had installing this kit that was supposed to be a bolt on (with the normal mods to make it fit headers) it's just another straw on the Camel's back. I wouldn't recommend it to anyone.
nice seeing someone that knows the diference :cheers: wonder if there is something going on with what is sold as 409 steel i have noticed other brands using 409 rusting worse than they are suposed to aswell
sorry to hear that stuff that should be a fair bolt on failing to be bolt on
fishy68
Tyr Fryr's Inc.
nice seeing someone that knows the diference :cheers: wonder if there is something going on with what is sold as 409 steel i have noticed other brands using 409 rusting worse than they are suposed to aswell
sorry to hear that stuff that should be a fair bolt on failing to be bolt on
Sure makes you wonder. I've used 409 before and it never rusted nearly this quick. I'm not a metals expert by any means but I thought to qualify as 409 it had to meet certain purity standards but maybe it's like other steel products that aren't up to snuff.
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