quarter panel replace ment
- Thread starter Duster708
- Start date
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We replaced a quarter panel on a dart. We made our cut on a flat area between the body lines so we would have a flat area for smoothing and it turned out pretty nice.
That's a first for me though, maybe someone with a whole lot more experience will chime in.
That's a first for me though, maybe someone with a whole lot more experience will chime in.
thanks for showing me that i found a link to a 440 duster on your forum page that had the same problem. i see were they cut it. but if anybody has ever done this on a duster before feel free to post tips.... i dont have the full pannel just the skin
green1
Well-Known Member
i paid for a skin, half welded it in, cut it off and threw it away, bought the $ AMD, but it was thicker, and perfect. Butt welded.
green1
Well-Known Member
Oh, I bought the whole thing; the rest of it was donated to buddy's 60 Charger, for good sheetmetal repairs.
if you re gonna flange it... i would keep it about 3/8 of an inch away from the body line. that body line gives you some strength to prevent warpage. i also bought the amd full quarter. it looks good now. but had to do quite a bit more nippin and tuckin than i should have had to for 600.00.
green1
Well-Known Member
I had flangers, started, then decided no good, butt welded. Even with that nasty weld-thru primer; creating moisture trap problems.
plymouth67
It be a lot cooler if you did...
When I put quarters on a duster I had yrs. ago I went all the up past both body lines because the one in the middle of the car is so faint if you get any warpage and then its alot of work to get it back straight and keep that small line just right.
my only problem with butt-welding..is that unless you leave some weld on the back side.. that seam, once you grind it down, is super weak. either that, or you leave some of the weld on the front, and pound it down and pave over it with filler. i would rather have extra strength, and prime the crap out of the flange, than have a weak spot in the middle of a panel. my neighbor butt-welded a set of 1/4 s on his 69 camaro. car had about 400 hp. he cracked that seam on both sides the first time that car hooked up. this guy isn t an idiot either. he s been welding a long time. i still butt-weld. i butt welded in my inner fender halves. but there is a lot of rigidity there.
Yes I have replaced 2 quarter panels on a 70 duster both sides on my car.First where did you get your quarter panels from did you get them from year one?If you do replace the quarter panel on your car you have to cut the turn signal out of the old one and put it on the new one.If you want to keep the 70 turn signal.My panel was about 2 inches above the body line.But when you cut it out it will be tack welded to the trunk extension,so better use a spot weld cutter or a 3/16 drill bit.I flanged mine on my car,I just think it is stronger.If you still need so pics I can take some off my car and put them up.I have one side that I have not filled yet.Hope this was some help to you.
plymouth67
It be a lot cooler if you did...
I have also flanged in quarters and used that metal bonding epoxy. That stuff is the bomb! There is no heat so no warpage and it seals the overlapping metal unlike welding and it comes out of the seam and you can sand it down and almost use no filler at all.
dustermaniac
Senior Member
I am interested in this method of bonding the new quarters to the vehicle. Does anyone out here know of the process in how to prep the panel and how much to overlap the panels? And does these metal bonding adhesives actually take the place of welding in a panel? if so, How much of this would be needed to do a complete quarter panel replacement??
You can go to eastwood companey and buy a whole kit for the panel bonding its called no weld kit.As far as the bonding it work super good.First you have to clean the area where you are putting the panel dirt,rust or paint.Make sure when you cut the panel out you leave enough to flange somewhere around 5/8 inch.Then flange the panel all the way around,take a test scrape of metal and test your flange out on it.Then drill some holes for ribets.Put down a good bead of bonding agent.Put your panel on by the ribets let set for 24 hours.Then drill your ribets out and put some more bonding agent over the holes and edge of the panel and your done.
dustermaniac
Senior Member
Cool, Thanks for this information.
plymouth67
It be a lot cooler if you did...
The Lord Fusor is what I used also. It was the least exspensive of all of them and has a very good rating from people who have used it. The stuff in eastwood is exspensive and I found that the epoxy is all about the same price but you have to buy the gun to apply it and every brands gun is different. That is where they get you, the 3m gun was like 350.00 just for the gun and about 40 bucks for the epoxy. the Lord stuff was about the same but the gun was only like 35.00 so beware of that.
green1
Well-Known Member
That's why you buttweld. No rip-off gun, no $ for a cheap flanger that doesn't hack it. Just leave a 3/16" space, so when the weld contracts, it doesn't distort the metal.
i think somebody really, really likes to butt-weld. LOL. there s nothing wrong with doing what you prefer to do. we re just trying to lay a few more options on the table for someone who wants to try something different.
zakimodo
Well-Known Member
Here is where I had to cut to get the rust out. one side i butt welded. (turned out ok) The other side I had a flange (turned out really good)
sublime green
Well-Known Member
Thats how we did it pretty much but left a little and flanged it then welded and put some bondo over it till it was right. No pics that I know of though.
green1
Well-Known Member
I hate butt welding, but it works. No epoxy, no expensive flanger ($$ for one that works off air). Set new panel over body, Figure cut lines, then cut both , old and new at the same time; use 3/16" blade ( a Bosch jigsaw is perfect). Then gas mig; dab, dab; wet rag, to keep any distortion pulling inwards.(when welds cool, they contract).Full weld it, seal the inside, and stronger than original metal.
You don't flange panels or bond panels at seems.Bonding with epoxy will show a small shadow line at the seem every time.It is the **** when bonding along pinch welds around wheelhouse,window pinchweld.Flanging is a no no it will hold moisture and won't allow you to finish the seem properly with hammer and dolley.if you are having problems butt welding such as warpage slow down walk away.3m is the best product hands down 8115 is the product that can fix anything.8115 is the duct tape of epoxy.SEM weld bond is problem prone with panel seperage and shelf life.Lord fusor don't even think about,ask the big three about some of those issues.8115 was a product from a company called duramix wich 3M bought out just for this product only.They couldn't duplicate it,so bought it.20 plus years experience of using this stuff everyday.By the way 3M has a manual gun for 35dollars and 3M and SEM use the same gun
I replaced a quarter skin on my dart sport with the 8115 panel bond by 3m. Worked great. Just clean all edges to bare metal, squirt the stuff on, clamp and screw with 1/2" self tappers where needed, and walk away. The next day grind away the excess panel bond and screws with a sanding disk then apply your filler.
thanks for the pics zakimodo. what quarters did u use? did u use skins or full panel? i have a skin from year one. all i wanted to see was were to cut on the body line...
for everybody else i plan on welding it in not using glue. the trunk extension is already out i replaced the trunk pan jst waiting on the new trunk extension... i just want to see were to cut it the old 1/4 is already off i left xtra space to cut more if i have to
for everybody else i plan on welding it in not using glue. the trunk extension is already out i replaced the trunk pan jst waiting on the new trunk extension... i just want to see were to cut it the old 1/4 is already off i left xtra space to cut more if i have to
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