Question concerning fit of front brake rotors

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grassy

grassy

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I am dry fitting a router to the stub axle just to try to understand what holds the caliber on. I will wait until the suspension is installed to really do this because of the extra weight of the brake stuff. I am not putting any of the bearings in which may be the problem.

When I install the keyed washer and nut there is a lot of play in the router.

When I really do install the router with the bearings, do I pack as much grease in them ?

I am still trying to figure out what holds the caliper on the unit.

I have torqued ever nut on the suspension so getting closer to the install.

Any help is accepted.

Ian.
 
1st of all, its a rotor, caliper, and hub.

The bearings need to be installed and yes, they need to be packed w/grease. The bearings ride on the hub shaft. Tighten the nut snug and back it off til the holes line up and install the cotter pin.
 
pntastar69 said:
The bearings ride on the hub shaft.
Click to expand...

Nice try, but..............wrong

SPINDLE is the term

WHAT are we working on?

DO you have a shop manual?

THERE are several shop manuals that you can download fer free and will make some of what you want to know much clearer

Not knowing the year/ make model, nor the parts you have used to put this together, for all I know, you may have a pile of incompatible parts that will never fit.
 
pntastar69 said:
Excuse mr. know it all.

If you opened his resto link, you would have known what make/model he has.
Click to expand...


Buddy YOU are the one who started the "correct terminology lecture" mmmmmmmkay?

Resto link means squat to me. In my day I once owned several Mopars at the same time, so how would I know what he's workin on this week?
 
Sorry..I do usually say what I am working on because I have a lot to learn...and what I do know, I sometimes forget due to the length of my rebuild.

The car is a '75 Duster and I believe the vehicle we got the disk brake hub was a '71 Dart.

We bought a new routers, calipers, etc.. The upper ball joint stayed the same size but we are now LBP.

I am new to American cars ...I used to do British ones before my accident.

I seem to live in an island of chebbies and fords so I cannot visit someone to look at their setup.

I have the Chrysler service manual as well as a Haynes.

It helps if I can visualize something before I try to build it...and trying to ahead of the parts curve because it usually takes me 3 weeks to get a part.

I have been looking for expanded views of the disk brake setup...what I am having a hard time with is how the caliper is held on to the overall unit and b) do I need to buy more parts. Oh, I also have the "disk brake" kit from UAP which is a package of all the little consumable parts.

thanks, Ian.
 
The parts you are describing won't work together if they are off the OEM parts off the cars you mention.

Post some pictures so we can see what you have.
 
1968dartman said:
I think that he is right Ian. 71 is different then your setup.
Click to expand...

A mixture of 71 and 75 won't work. The 71 would be a Kelsey Hayes caliper with 4 pistons per caliper and the smaller wheel bolt pattern. The hub has 5 holes on a 4" diameter bolt circle with 7/16" diameter studs.

The 73-76 style has a single piston per caliper and the brake pads fit into machined grooves. The 73-76 style uses a larger upper ball joint than the 65-72 and the rotor has the larger bolt pattern. 5 holes on a 4-1/2" bolt circle with larger 1/2" diameter studs.

In either case, the caliper mounts to a cast iron bracket that bolts to the steering knuckle. (Chrysler calls them knuckles, not spindles) I'm pretty sure the rotor for 65-72's is 1" thick and it's thicker on the 73-76.

First step would be to pack the wheel bearings with grease. The larger bearing goes into the back side of the rotor and a grease seal is pressed into place over that. You can install them with a hammer iof you are careful and take your time. Put the rotor onto the shaft and fit the smaller bearing over the "spindle" and into the recess of the rotor,. Next is a special flat washer that has a "key" on the inside diameter. Next is the spindle "nut", then a cotter pin and then the dust cap.

If you have a shop manual just follow that but it sounds like you have a mixture of incompatible parts. You have to use all 65-72 parts or all 73-76 parts. If you have to make a choice, go with 73-76 to match the bolt pattern on the rear axle. That is assuming Chrysler followed the same timeline in your country regarding the brake change-over.

You really should post some pictures of exactly what you have! Surely if you cruise this site, you'll find enough pictures to show what you need to do.
 
Bought it 3 years ago..we are kinda behind the schedule.

I will post pics tonight.

The 73-76 style has a single piston per caliper and the brake pads fit into machined grooves. The 73-76 style uses a larger upper ball joint than the 65-72 and the rotor has the larger bolt pattern. 5 holes on a 4-1/2" bolt circle with larger 1/2" diameter studs.

What I do know is that it is LBP with the new hub. The caliper I bought has is single piston. And I have the iron bracket.

Kosm, I have been searching for a few good pics..not easy to find.

Expect pics tonight.

Ian.
 
These are Kelsey Hayes spindles. The calipers bolt directly to them.

attachment.php
 
The good news. I have the 73 and up brake spindles and the caliper bracket. So I have done something right :) ...but for the love of me, I cannot see how one holds the other. Is there a picture anywhere for this ?

My pictures:

Spindle and dust shield

unit-L.jpg


Router, caliper and brackets

caliper%201-L.jpg



Other side of caliper

caliper%202-L.jpg



Thanks
Ian.
 
Grassy I cannot tell for sure if your brackets (adaptors) are correct or not. You put the rotors on the spindles, put the pads in the calipers after retracting the piston if necessary, and slide the caliper / pads together onto the rotor and into the bracket.

If you look at the last photo Okla posted You can see the stamped steel retainers (anti-rattle springs) installed on those brackets
 

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Okla,

Something just caught my eye with the full display picture you posted in #16.

Are there 2 caliper brackets per side ? And since the lower control arm bolts into the two bottom holes of the spindles, where would it attach.

I am going t go get a better picture of the brackets.

67 dart,

I may have to do a full install so i can this straight.

ian
 
Let's try this (EDIT) One of the adaptors/ brackets you show in one of your photos should bolt each spindle in the manner that Okla posted
 

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two pics :

Not great quality but ok..

b-XL.jpg



a-XL.jpg



Ok. I am glad I have the right number.

then the next thing to do is pop in the bearings and set it up like it should be and hope something clicks. I have a block with this for some reason.

No matter. I shall do this in the morning.

Thanks for being patient. Ian.
 
I just had an A-Ha moment. The braket is flipped so both sides are point up (like a horseshoe) and the caliper slides into it. Ding dong. That is quite elegant. I was looking for something more complex.

What clued me in was the first picture in post #18. I can see the bracket orientation.

I am going to do something different tonight but a weight has been lifted off my shoulders...I hate having the kids see me struggling.

We have accomplished more this last couple of weeks than we did last year.

Again, thanks.

Ian.
 
I really appreciate this board and the folks who participate in it. It is a life line for us (me) :)

damn, I feel good.

ian
 
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