Question for those that swapped a big block into their A body.

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EZ. Of course certain headers make things harder than others. Plugs are generally easy.
 
i always thought the big block wa easier to work on.. timing easier because the dist is up front. oil filter easier to reach. plugs were never bad (pro parts headers) and i thought motor to trans bolts were easier to get to with a big block in my opinion...
 
dart_68 said:
How hard is it to work on, such as changing plugs?
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Mine is really hard on the pass side with the TriY headers, next time the motor is out I will be drilling two holes in the fender well to get at them, the rest are easy.
 
So given a 450 - 500 hp engine, would a big block be more economical to build than a 360 at the same hp? Would the BB run better on pump gas? Apologies to the OP if I this is straying too far off your question :).
 
Cuda68Scott said:
So given a 450 - 500 hp engine, would a big block be more economical to build than a 360 at the same hp? Would the BB run better on pump gas? Apologies to the OP if I this is straying too far off your question :).
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Actually, it's a good question to consider. The BB would take less to reach that power level. It's a matter of physics. To make more power you have to burn more fuel. Bigger engines burn more fuel as a matter of cubic inches. Over simplified, but essentially true.
 
Big block headers. Fenderwells = tire clearance issues but the plugs are easy!
Different trans or bell housing.
Fan to radiator clearance can come up.
Maybe some driveline issues depending on what is current.
 
The bigger the engine in cubic inches, the easier it is to make power. Ether engine will cost around the same to rebuild or stroke. Reusing the OE parts saves money.

So, rebuilding a big block (440) can make an easy 450+hp with a small cam and headers and with a simple (larger) cam, intake & carb change/upgrade, you can make 500+ without going nuts inside the engine. It is a little bit more involved for a small block.

The small block offers lighter weight and better handling because of it.
The big block offers huge torque and a higher HP ceiling.

There are pros and cons to each and "what really should be considered" is what you want to see under your hood when you open it up.

I have had both big and small block Dusters. I like the small block better myself. But ether will do and create a very wide smile on me.
 
Heres a good comparison. Quite a few years ago a had a 340, 4 spd Duster. 11.70 on pump gas. The motor was loud and the cam was choppy. I put a mild 440 in a Dart, the car was a pleasure to drive, didn't have a crazy gear and cruised almost like a stocker. The car went bottom 12s with traction issues. It needed more suspension work. I ended up selling the car before I saw the real potential. I believe it would have been as fast or faster than my Duster. That being said I still prefer the smallblocks. To each his own.
 
Pretty easy swap with Schumacher making mounts and headers. No mangling on 67 up A Bodies. Look at Torque and flow numbers on big block heads. No special parts, cam kit, intake and carb. 400 to 500 HP and torque. I have an original 68 383 S, factory exhaust manifolds and all. It is a very sweet car to drive, curves too.
 
It's all a bragging/visual deal at this point. Big blocks will generate more looks. Power wise, anything can be done to make anything so that's not really a consideration anymore. I like a small block in terms of plug access and over all fit. Weight wise - a slant weighs within 50lbs of a B wedge. A small block within 100lbs. So you're talking about the performance of you alone int he car, or you with a friend. yes - there's a difference. But no, unless you're driving like a moron with no appreciation for the fact you're in a car designed 50-60 years ago, there isn't much in terms of risk with stock brakes and suspension. I always considered reear axle needs to be swapped with the engine, brakes as the 2nd to last thing to change, torsion bars last. But I got my license in a car with 4-wheel power drums and no sway bars and my last drag car had 4-wheel noin-power drums. I didn't learn on some FWD excellent handling and over-braked modern car. That gives the driver a totally different perspective (and appreciation).
My Demon has a 340 waiting. My '65 Barracuda has a 413. If I get it, my next A body has a 360 or two waiting for it.
 
For me my biggest concern is header gaskets/ hardware buy the best you can find I went with remflex gaskets and ARP header bolts that were drilled for safety wire so I can install and lock down the headers, I never want to mess with header gaskets again in such a tight space. Spend the extra money now or spend double the money later.
 
halifaxhops said:
Mine is really hard on the pass side with the TriY headers, next time the motor is out I will be drilling two holes in the fender well to get at them, the rest are easy.
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I drilled a hole for number 6 plug with the engine already in the car.lolo
 
famous bob said:
me too ! may do # 5 nad 7 too .
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Mine was a 440 with Indy EZ heads and TTI 2 inch headers in a 73 dart swinger. I found out if I used a 5/8 spark plug socket with a hex on the end, that number 7 was very easy to change. But your car might of been diffrent. Here is the socket I am talking about

IMG_0694.PNG
 
mopar65 said:
I would have to disagree on this . Lol
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But on saying that. I am going to put a magnum 360 with FI and a turbo in my 75 dart sport. lol I haven't messed with small blocks in a very long time. Compared to big blocks I can't beleave there isn't much to pick from, single plane intakes for a magnum engine
 
The Magnums have the M1
Dual plane, hard to find, M1 single, again hard to find, Hughes rpm Edelbrock rpm & Indy.

Redrilling the head is an option as well.
 
mopar65 said:
I found out if I used a 5/8 spark plug socket with a hex on the end
View attachment 1715060543
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I use a similar socket except for 13/16" plugs (and hex). The best way to turn it for most plugs except #6 was to use a swivel-head 13/16" ratchet on the hex.

You'll develop your own technique for plug changing soon enough, OP ;) Every combo of block, cylinder heads, headers, starter, etc. is different. Just accept that it will be a moderate PITA unless you have fenderwell headers. Then plug changes are easy but they interfere with the steering, tires, ground, and parts you haven't even thought of yet.
 
Big block auto trans. Much easier
Than manual.
I wouldn't do that ever again.

That is headers and power steering

If you can deal with manual steering,
Different.

D.
 
mopar65 said:
Mine was a 440 with Indy EZ heads and TTI 2 inch headers in a 73 dart swinger. I found out if I used a 5/8 spark plug socket with a hex on the end, that number 7 was very easy to change. But your car might of been diffrent. Here is the socket I am talking about

View attachment 1715060543
Click to expand...
reply>I use that socket and about 3 other combinations of tools to install and remove the plugs, still going to drill holes for # 5 some day. mine has raised port heads, they are longer, wider, and taller than most other heads. Have about a 1/2" clearance on the firewall at the back of the heads= no heatermotor there. headers are 2"tti, very tite squeeze everywhere on both sides. firewall floor seam flattened and welded solid, no room for trans blanket or shield.-- 68 fastback form S, motor plate, and aftermarket front end. Everything clears, but barely.
 
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