quick 318?

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Yes, it can live. I know a guy at our local drag strip that has been drag racing a Dodge Truck in stock eliminator (and bracket racing) for over 20 years. He ran 318's for years. He ran a 318 long block for 4 years turning 7200 rpm every weekend with his 4000 lbs truck with 513 gears and about 5500 stall converter. Never broke. He is still there faithfully whenever I go to the strip. By the way, in the mid nineties he held the record for his class for 4 yrs straight with his 318.

Don't let the name "stock" fool you....most of those stock eliminator cars have more $$$$ in there motor than I have in my entire car. One of my friends has a stock eliminator car (a Demon with a 340), runs almost the exact same ET has my car.....but it is FAR from cheap.

If you want your car to live you will need good parts, good machine work, and a competent builder....remove any piece from that equation and you have a pile of broken parts....JMO. Anything can go fast if you have the knowledge, time, money, and effort.
 
Don't let the name "stock" fool you....most of those stock eliminator cars have more $$$$ in there motor than I have in my entire car. One of my friends has a stock eliminator car (a Demon with a 340), runs almost the exact same ET has my car.....but it is FAR from cheap.

If you want your car to live you will need good parts, good machine work, and a competent builder....remove any piece from that equation and you have a pile of broken parts....JMO. Anything can go fast if you have the knowledge, time, money, and effort.

My points exactly,:prayer:
 
Thanks for the help.at thks point I will continue to scavange for parts for a 5.9 just seems ill get the performance im after cheaper and easker on the ol.brain.but I do have a extra 318 lying around with rebuild gasket set.I will just hone and rering it throw in.a xe 268 cam kit lap the valves put it back togetherwith my streetmaster 318 intake and 600 eddelbrock along with my explorer 8.8 with 373 lsd should be fun to drive around town untill iI build the magnum
 
Flyfish and 75Dart: His truck runs a 318 STOCK, STOCK, STOCK bottom end. A custom grind cam and the TQ on cast and 4bbl heads. AGAIN, STOCK bottom end. STOCK RODS, STOCK CAST CRANK, 4 years of 7200 rpm every weekend. He put 7 grand into a 360 to run stock eliminator to be a winner and not have it come apart. He set the record and was disqualified for valves floating and nicking the pistons. Shortly after, his 7 thousand dollar motor blew up. He is back to his 200 dollar motor, and making run after run.... but mainly just bracket racing it now..
 
Flyfish and 75Dart: His truck runs a 318 STOCK, STOCK, STOCK bottom end. A custom grind cam and the TQ on cast and 4bbl heads. AGAIN, STOCK bottom end. STOCK RODS, STOCK CAST CRANK, 4 years of 7200 rpm every weekend. He put 7 grand into a 360 to run stock eliminator to be a winner and not have it come apart. He set the record and was disqualified for valves floating and nicking the pistons. Shortly after, his 7 thousand dollar motor blew up. He is back to his 200 dollar motor, and making run after run.... but mainly just bracket racing it now..

Big difference in cost of a competitive stock eliminator engine and shoe polish dial in bracket racer engine...lol

stock eliminator ..nhra set your minimum index or dial in.....never heard of anyone being disqualified for floating the valves......
 
70aarcuda, the strength of the 318's bottom end is what is in question. I stated that I know a guy that spun a stock bottom end 318 7200 rpm's for 4 yrs. This was to state the 318 bottom end is tougher than what most people give them credit. Yes, they made him pull the head on a record setting pass during an eliminator class meet and he had nicks in the pistons from valves floating and disqualified him for "too much lift" on the valve.
P.S. His name is Jim Peterson, racing at Cordova Dragway, builds racing transmissions for all makes, and has made more passes in his truck than probably anyone in any car. He is a die hard mopar racer that goes back about as far as "Arnie the Farmer", which started his career at Cordova. Jim finally spun a main bearing in his 318 after 4 yrs of 7200 rpm, every weekend. But, anyone can believe what they want.
 
I'm not sure I'm understanding what you are saying....Are you saying you want to run mid 11's with a low budget 318?

lmfao, good luck! You've gotta pay to play. The 'cheapest' way to mid 11's is in a 360. And it's not gonna be very street able. Have you ever been that fast down a track? Have you ever been 12's?

My mild 360 with a 268ish cam and 3.73s rips s*it up, why do you need this so badly? Your gonna need to nut up for what you 'think' you want. Consider what you need and where you get the most out of your driving experience. If its on the street, limit cam to less than 230 @.050 duration, if it's at the track then be prepared to have to trailer it there.

Or spray and pray. I think you need to think with your head and not your wand, personally. But whatever, boys will be boys. Be safe.
 
70aarcuda, the strength of the 318's bottom end is what is in question. I stated that I know a guy that spun a stock bottom end 318 7200 rpm's for 4 yrs. This was to state the 318 bottom end is tougher than what most people give them credit. Yes, they made him pull the head on a record setting pass during an eliminator class meet and he had nicks in the pistons from valves floating and disqualified him for "too much lift" on the valve.
P.S. His name is Jim Peterson, racing at Cordova Dragway, builds racing transmissions for all makes, and has made more passes in his truck than probably anyone in any car. He is a die hard mopar racer that goes back about as far as "Arnie the Farmer", which started his career at Cordova. Jim finally spun a main bearing in his 318 after 4 yrs of 7200 rpm, every weekend. But, anyone can believe what they want.

why i commented...i have no idea why....lol
 
It's not about respect, 318 can hold their own.

The rub is the power level you want is gonna cost more to get there with one, that's all.

You can build anything to do anything, it takes more time, money and effort with smaller displacements to do big things.

People prove this point with 4 and 6 cyl engines all the time. Engines are air pumps.

Take a look at 70aarcuda's build's sometime for pointers. Come into the chat and talk to him, he's there most evenings.
 
I dont want a quick 318 Ill save my money for the 5.9 I wanna build.im just gonna do a hone ring bearings and ad xe268 cam kit,throw on the streetmaster 600 edy and the headmans,and the 373 lsd rear
 
build the 318. the 318 is a good reliable motor and will respond well to basic performance mods. will it go 11's probably not without juice. mid to high 12's is what you should shoot for, easy on a low budget.
every time I read a thread like this I have to laugh, because some of these guys are the same ones that think a 383 is a stationwagon motor. lol
 
build the 318. the 318 is a good reliable motor and will respond well to basic performance mods. will it go 11's probably not without juice. mid to high 12's is what you should shoot for, easy on a low budget.
every time I read a thread like this I have to laugh, because some of these guys are the same ones that think a 383 is a stationwagon motor. lol

Agreed, 318 is plenty fast for cheap, it WILL surprise you. Get a good converter too, makes all the difference. More important than an engine in my mind.

Peep this:

http://forums.moparmusclemagazine.com/70/7975540/mopar-engines/318-cams/
 
I dont know why but I end up with bad flowing intakes lol,I have the streetmaster 318 and 2 of the offenhauser dual port intakes the one that have the divided ports.which of the 2 is better for the 318 toss together lol?
 
Sorry if I came off like a dick yesterday, I have cam recommendation that will save you some coin and give you comparable performance to the xe268 in a 360. For a 318, the next size down, something like a xe262 will be better suited. Be sure and get new valve springs! Recommend a new timing set too.

Although not talked a lot about, ask for duration @ .200, including this in the story with .006 and .050 numbers; gives one a much clearer picture of whats going on power wise. More @ .200 is more 'power under the curve' usually. Good things.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-k6901/overview/make/dodge

My advice is to say 1-2 size down from what you'd use in a 360.

As far as intake, try the Streetmaster first.

Another fun tool to help you in your quest is a Dynamic compression calculator, enter engine specs, then cam spec 'Intake valve close @ ABDC' @.050 + 15 degrees, keep DCR close to the 7.5-8.5 range for pump gas.

http://www.wallaceracing.com/dynamic-cr.php


Another important aspect is tuning, hone your chops up on this 318 so when you step up to bigger and better you can get the most out of the combination.

Bigger isn't always better, cam or otherwise. You see it time and time again, little guy with good tune beat big guy with crappy more times than not.

Tuning tips:

Idle screws set 2 turns out to start, keep turning out until it doesn't affect idle. Cupped hand over the carb: rev = lean, bog = rich, read spark plugs to verify good heat range and jetting. Step-up springs are usually most responsive at 1/2 of HG inches IN GEAR. I.E. 16" = 8" spring, give or take a size. If you have adjustable part throttle, adjust it to specs.

Start at 1 light, 1 medium springs in the distributor, lighter springs = faster curve, better response, see how fast you can go. :D Disconnect vacuum advance and set inital timing to best vacuum. Performance cams like initial timing, don't be surprised if it's 14-18 degrees.

Set total timing to best response/power, 32-36 degrees by 2500RPM is usually the ballpark. Many folks set timing here and let initial play where it lies.

Lastly, I find that the vacuum advance attached to ported vacuum is best for my combination, hook up to manifold to see what you like best. Total including vacuum advance should be around 50-52 degrees by 2500RPM for good cruising economy. It's usually adjustable by sticking a 3/32 allen wrench in the hole the vacuum line hooks to, CW is open, CCW is closed, 1 turn = 1" of vacuum.

That should get you damn close to falling in love with what you've got. Lastly, listen to your engine, if it likes something, give it more until the RPM falls off, then step back a little.

All this applies to the 360 too.

The stock converter will be fine for now, when you step up to big power, get a good custom made converter to your engine specs. You'll be glad you did, VERY important.
 
I may just pull 318 thats in car,pull heads slap on a set of 360 heads,shave em down some,add airgap intake and 670 street avenger,how much better would it run compared to the small valve 318 topend?stil wanna run xe268.is it worth it?
 
Do what you want, just don't overcam. Everything works together to get the most out of your combo. If I remember right, 360 heads will drop the compression way down. Rock her as she is.
 
My 318 ran 12.90 @ 103
stock stroke
kb399 pistons around 10:5 compression
360 heads cleaned up 1.88/1.60
erson 488/510 234/244 hdy
edelbrock air gap
650 holley dp
904 3500 stall
4.10 gears in a 3400 abody.
Ran pretty good for what it was.
 
Forget I ever mentioned quick 318 .there is no respect for them or the people who wanna run one.

That's the general mind set around here, if it doesn't have a 4" crank, Eddie heads and a air gap it will never run! Lmfao

I had a thread on my quick 318, 90% hate, 5% applause, 5% speculation and one empty call out I agreed to lol it was entertaining though.
 
Teen in my Vali is
bored .030
decked
Cast crank/floater rods/ rot assemb balanced.
Cast flat tops .080" in the hole
Smog heads shaved to 60cc, home port job/gasket match, new guides and new 1.78/1.5 valves.
Edelbrock Performer
650 DP SB Holley w.3/4" 4hole spacer.
Hooker Supercomp headers.
Crane Gold Roller rockers 1.5r
Comp XE268 cam.

Mildly built 904 w/2500 converter. 3.23 gears in 7 1/4 rear.

Love the way the car sounds. Get thumbs up all the time. And just had a 70yr old man w/his wife at Autozone last week tell me he prefers that sound over the new sewing machine cars...he was in a new Toyota Camry. lol

Car will tear the tires loose from a 20mph roll and pulls friggin hard..on top of finding out yesterday it'll get 19mpg on the interstate at 70-75mph.
Not sure what the 1/4 times will be but hoping for high 13's up here at 6000ft.

13's will shut the mouths of some of my buds rousing me for building the teen, lol. They keep telling me it'll be good for 16's or 17's but they haven't rode in the car yet :evil: And as a matter of fact, one won't ride in the car because he says its too ugly and a grandma car and he doesn't want to be seen in it....seriously.
 
That build sounds like what I wanna build for now.as long as it pulls and seems fast and sounds good lol but I have 373 gears and 275/60/15
 
Ill put the 302 heads or just clean up my stock heads wanna do it cheap cheap.wanna have fun and spank the neihbors 4.6 mustang he thinks its fast sre lol all mustangs,camaros,and vettes people think the names are fast lol
 
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