i have the 300hp 360 magnum crate engine and i am wanting to go to the Magnum R/T cast iron cylinder heads over the stock magnum cast iron heads, i have been told the magnum R/t heads are very impressive as far as flow is concerned, i can get a pair for 450 bucks im going to stick to the same !.92" intake and 1.625" exhaust because i do not really wanna have to upgrade the cam. this engine is for a 4x4 truck so the cam it has works great. Just wondering what the cost of having new cylinder heads put on would be, ball park dont have to be exact just so i have an idea of what ill be looking at price wise to have them installed on the engine? Do the R/t heads out perform the magnum heads enough to make it worth paying for new r/t heads and paying for them to be installed?
R/t cylinder heads
- Thread starter pjc360
- Start date
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fishy68
Tyr Fryr's Inc.
If your referring to the heads used on 5.9 Dakota R/T's their no different than any other 5.9 magnum head. In fact the entire engine is no different than any other 5.9 magnum engine. All Dodge did was slap a 360 from a Ram into a Dakota and stick some R/T labels on it.
Brian Hafliger
Well-Known Member
The Magnum RT's have large intake bowls and with porting they do flow very well. OOTB they are no better than RHS heads but the RT's will make less low speed TQ because of the larger bowl. I know a few people that have run them and didn't like the loss of bottom end power. It will be real noticable in a truck too.
The price is good though, that's for sure!!
Brian
1wild&crazyguy
Banned
I always had the notion of the factory R/T motor having more cam, nothing else diff than that.
IIRC, the R/T head was listed as flowing about 20 cfm more than stock. No list on the air flow curve though. If you were doing a car and looking at a set ported, the R/T would be a good choice. Even better with a 2.02, but in a truck??? Not to sure you'd like it ported nd such.
On the head as is, I'm not to sure if the low speed torque loose would bother you or not. Around town driving a lot? Might wanna skip it. Maybe, IDK.
More Hwy. driving, IMO, you'll like it.
On the head as is, I'm not to sure if the low speed torque loose would bother you or not. Around town driving a lot? Might wanna skip it. Maybe, IDK.
More Hwy. driving, IMO, you'll like it.
RAMM
Well-Known Member
There's flow numbers for RT heads (and many more) listed here. Hope this helps. J.Rob
http://users.erols.com/srweiss/tablehdc.htm#Chrysler_Big_Block
http://users.erols.com/srweiss/tablehdc.htm#Chrysler_Big_Block
Can we clarify that we are or are not talking about post "LA" factory small block heads that come on 360 engines in Dakota and Durango R/T vehicles?
I have a 2000 Dak R/T and I know where there is a complete drivetrain for sale in a wrecked 1999 Dak R/T. if I can negotiate a better price, I may be interested in picking it up. I already bought the wheels with 2 new tires.
Current price of motor (with headers), trans, and axle is $1800.
I've never heard of differences in the head castings.
I do also have a "regular" Durango 360 with a spun bearing sitting around.
I'd be happy to look on that motor and my truck's motor, if someone will tell me the location of the "R/T" casting.
I have a 2000 Dak R/T and I know where there is a complete drivetrain for sale in a wrecked 1999 Dak R/T. if I can negotiate a better price, I may be interested in picking it up. I already bought the wheels with 2 new tires.
Current price of motor (with headers), trans, and axle is $1800.
I've never heard of differences in the head castings.
I do also have a "regular" Durango 360 with a spun bearing sitting around.
I'd be happy to look on that motor and my truck's motor, if someone will tell me the location of the "R/T" casting.
YY1 re-read the above post, ya missed it.
The "R/T" heads have a R/T cast into them.
Every other head on a Magnum engine no matter what it came in is a regular Magnum head.
Even if it came in a vehicle that says R/T on the side.
The "R/T" heads have a R/T cast into them.
Every other head on a Magnum engine no matter what it came in is a regular Magnum head.
Even if it came in a vehicle that says R/T on the side.
so what would be a good choice for heads and gain even more low end torque? i dont wanna lose any low end torque thats for sure. what do i wanna look for as far as getting heads to give it a little more umph on take off power?
Im glad you guys pointed that out lol that woulda sucked, what i wanna do is gain take off power mostly, because i am not going to be going over 100mph in any situation so i dont really need high horse power even tho its nice to be able to cruise at 100 all day long wich this truck will with this engine, i love this engine i mean its not anything super duper spectacular but its a solid darn good running 360 and it will perform all day long with no problems, i have taken it on 3 hour freeway trips cruising at 85 to 100 mph the entire time and was still getting 14 miles to the gallon and maintained good oil pressure and water tempature the entire time. its been a very dependable engine.
i did however break 3 intake manifold studs off into the head on the drivers side had to drill them out and let me tell you how fun that was 2 hours per broken stud then my idiot friend after i had gotten the 3 broken studs drilled out and had installed some sleeves in the grooves of the head and got the intake and carb back on he grabbed his torque wrench went around torqueing the intake bolts down and got to one of the nuts on one of them studs and SNAP broke another one after i had just spent 6 hours drilling the 3 i broke out, i wanted to punch him in the face.
The intake stud that he broke is not on any of the corners tho its the directly in the middle on the passenger side so its not leaking any antifreeze so i just squirted some silicone down the hole of the intake where the bolt is spos to go thru and called it good for now i didnt feel like yanking everything off and going thru another 20 drill bits and 2 hours getting the broken stud out that he broke. thats the only problem i have had with that engine and i will never use intake studs again they suck and are very brittle.
The intake stud that he broke is not on any of the corners tho its the directly in the middle on the passenger side so its not leaking any antifreeze so i just squirted some silicone down the hole of the intake where the bolt is spos to go thru and called it good for now i didnt feel like yanking everything off and going thru another 20 drill bits and 2 hours getting the broken stud out that he broke. thats the only problem i have had with that engine and i will never use intake studs again they suck and are very brittle.
so what kinda cylinder head upgrade can i do to squeeze more torque out of this engine? or is there any kind of valve train upgrades i can do like lifters? i think externally wise i have done all i can to the engine, i can however gear the truck down it does have really tall gears right now and still gets up and goes like a raped ape i bet if i geared down to a 4.10 or 4.56 it'd feel like i gained 100 more foot pounds of torque cause right now it has ether 3.21s or 3.23s i think they are 3.23s
UGH! 70AAR, YY1 sorry about the double pic. post. I swear there wasn't a thing there when I posted it up.
IF you owned a Magnum R/T head, then you could see it. Since you do not see the R/T logo, you do not own a Magnum R/T head.
Again, there is a "Magnum" head and a "Magnum R/T" head.
Owning a Dodge R/T truck with a Magnum engine does not mean you own a Magnum R/T head.
IF you owned a Magnum R/T head, then you could see it. Since you do not see the R/T logo, you do not own a Magnum R/T head.
Again, there is a "Magnum" head and a "Magnum R/T" head.
Owning a Dodge R/T truck with a Magnum engine does not mean you own a Magnum R/T head.
Use what you got and pocket port the head. The extra flow will be good without changing the air flow in a hurtful way.
Long tube headers installed?
Lifters? No. As far as I know, there is no trick lifter for a Hyd. roller cam. Like a Rhodes lifter.
Valve train wise, there a rocker ratio change o a 1.7, but, that is not helping a whole lot on a stock cammed engine or the low end in much of a meaningful way. There would be a gain, but you will not feel it.
Should you change out your gear ratio, a low cruise speed will happen due to soaring RPM's. But added torque is the result due to the change multiplication with the said 4.10's or .56's.
You'll also need to get into the computer to change the system for the gear ratio swap.
Heeeeeeey (Like da Fonz)
No problem! Sorry to come off ruff and stuff.
No problem! Sorry to come off ruff and stuff.
These heads were sold by and only through MoPar Performance. Other shops and speed house's could have sold them only if they got them through MP first. I'm sure places like Summit or Jegs could purchase them in bulk and sell them for less than listed racers net MP sell's them for.
Remember, you can go down to your local Chrysler, Dodge Jeep dealer and order MP parts as well. Not all dealers will match or beat prices from Jegs/Summit etc...
If your in a club, send your PR guy down to try and broker a deal. It could work for you.
(My reply in a sponsorship thread; http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showpost.php?p=1613462&postcount=27
Sponsorship thread;
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=166025&highlight=sponsorship)
Remember, you can go down to your local Chrysler, Dodge Jeep dealer and order MP parts as well. Not all dealers will match or beat prices from Jegs/Summit etc...
If your in a club, send your PR guy down to try and broker a deal. It could work for you.
(My reply in a sponsorship thread; http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showpost.php?p=1613462&postcount=27
Sponsorship thread;
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=166025&highlight=sponsorship)
yes i do have headers on it, and no i wont have to mess with any computers because it does not have a computer its a 1991 if it did have a computer its long gone now, im running an edelbrock carb on it. it is very high geared 3.23's, i been looking at buying ring and pinions in a 4.10 or 4.56 ratio and the cheapiest deal i found buying brand new would come out to 375 bucks plus whatever the shipping costs would be probly 30 bucks each. so i should pretty much just leave the set up alone and gear it down? and pocket port the head?
FYI, I bought Direct Connection thru the local dealers 10 to 15 percent cheaper than summit or jegs.And no freight.
My guy is that much more expensive IF I do not get the right guy. Crazy huh?
On the heads, a good race prep'd valve job and a bowl porting will do nicely.
On the gear ratio, find a on-line calc, to figure your RPM change at Hwy. speeds. Tire size has a huge play in the way the car will react and how fast it will drive at Hwy. speeds.
A small tire isn't so desirable. It becomes to easy to spin and then run out of steam quickly.
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