R1 Concept rotors for KH setup

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71duster06

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I am getting new rotors soon and am curious if anyone has used the various rotors available from R1 Concepts. They offer std. rotors, slotted, and vented rotors. Any word on their quality and longevity? Again, these are for the Kelsey Hayes 4-piston setup....but input from the 73' and newer brakes will be helpful too.

Thanks
 
I am getting new rotors soon and am curious if anyone has used the various rotors available from R1 Concepts. They offer std. rotors, slotted, and vented rotors. Any word on their quality and longevity? Again, these are for the Kelsey Hayes 4-piston setup....but input from the 73' and newer brakes will be helpful too.

Thanks

BE VERY CAREFUL...take a look at the Centric rotors on Rock Auto...less cost, same performance.

By itself, Slotting rotors will not enhance stopping distance.

In fact, you may suffer stress related cracks due to the type and hardening process used on the metal surfaces of these slotted rotors. Remember that brakes are heat sinks - and - as they are cycled, the durability of the metals used play large role in lifespan, stopping distance and heat disapation.

BTW most rotors are vented - factory K-H rotors were vented, as are most higher quality aftermarket brands (Centric, Raybestos,etc.).

There should be some stampings on the rotors that equate to the metal rating used in the surfaces. There are grades assigned to the variety of metals used for rotors. Check out the metalurgy grade to determine quality.

Effective brake swept area, a critical factor in fade and stopping distance, is not increased at all by adding slots.

Several members and members on Moparts tried the R1 rotors...beware.
Not only were these more expensive...there was no improvement in performance.
 
Very good to know. Since the car is primarily street driven, I was not considering the cross drilled rotors. The slotted ones looked intriguing but if they dont hold up then thats enough reason to look on for me. Are the Centric rotors from Rock Auto basically a factory replacement or do they improve the quality?
 
You will have a VERY hard time finding a place wiling to turn drilled or slotted rotors.

Drilled and/or slotted offer ZORO benefit on the average car.

For longevity you want a standard flat rotor that can be turned.
 
Turn disks ? I never turn them , better just to change them if they are scored or whatever . Drilled or slotted disks look good , but not much benefit besides that , pad choice will bring more benefit .
 
Turn disks ? I never turn them , better just to change them if they are scored or whatever . Drilled or slotted disks look good , but not much benefit besides that , pad choice will bring more benefit .

yea you can turn discs as long as there not under spec...

some places will turn slotted/drilled rotors if they have a flywheel "lathe"(more of a mill)

and slotted and drilled rotors can bring great benifit if you are slamming on the brakes or alot of contunal slowing...

the slots and holes alow the brake dust and heat to get around the pad and also enter the"vented" area where the heat and dust can be released...

but on a normal street car yea they probably wont do a whole lot...
 
Turn disks ? I never turn them , better just to change them if they are scored or whatever .

What ? Sorry,but thats silly.
Why throw away perfectly re-usable parts, and why throw money out the window ?
Give them a turn, throw on new pads, and your set.
 
Very good to know. Since the car is primarily street driven, I was not considering the cross drilled rotors. The slotted ones looked intriguing but if they dont hold up then thats enough reason to look on for me. Are the Centric rotors from Rock Auto basically a factory replacement or do they improve the quality?

The Centric rotors come in several grades, including factory spec. performance and premium. For best longevity and performance, the Premium works best.

The basic Centric is so cheap now (~$20 each) - you can't lose.

Someone mentioned in this thread that you can get the softer brake pads, to increase the life of the rotors and that definitely works.

Look on the Moparts website for the latest Rock Auto discount code if you go in that direction; either way, best of luck with the car and the brakes!
 
Turn disks ? I never turn them , better just to change them if they are scored or whatever .

What ? Sorry,but thats silly.
Why throw away perfectly re-usable parts, and why throw money out the window ?
Give them a turn, throw on new pads, and your set.
Turning has never been a good practice , best never to get to the point it needs turning . I have only turned a disk once ,warped after a few weeks use , never again . Use them for about 2, maybe 4 sets of pads and off they go . Not worth it , what's the charge for turning a rotor ? New rotor is beween 20 and 80 for the better grade ,
 
Millions of people that have had rotors turned over the last several decades would disagree with you.

But spend your money how you want.
 
Well thats just a recipe for pulling/pulsating breaks. If thats working for you thats great,but the right way to do the job is to turn them.
 
Turning has never been a good practice , best never to get to the point it needs turning . I have only turned a disk once ,warped after a few weeks use , never again . Use them for about 2, maybe 4 sets of pads and off they go . Not worth it , what's the charge for turning a rotor ? New rotor is beween 20 and 80 for the better grade ,


well you are correct if the rotor is near minumum spec or is designed not to be turned
BUT
other rotors have enough meat on them to allow for a couple turns with no issues of warping... now if you do now brakes in your breaks you can have lots of issues no matter what kind of pad or rotors...
 
When I lived in Europe I once asked them to turn my disks , mechanic looked at me like I was insane , maybe it's a north american thing , turning disks . My thinking is if the disks are scored enough to need turning , not worth saving . Turning costs what 10.00 a disk , for another 10.00 I can have new disks that have not been heated and cooled couple thousand times .
To each his own , sorry for thread drift
 
When I lived in Europe I once asked them to turn my disks , mechanic looked at me like I was insane , maybe it's a north american thing , turning disks . My thinking is if the disks are scored enough to need turning , not worth saving . Turning costs what 10.00 a disk , for another 10.00 I can have new disks that have not been heated and cooled couple thousand times .
To each his own , sorry for thread drift

who said that everytime you do a brake job there is scoring? thats like saying you wont take off a couple of thousands to make a head or block flat...

unless you go metal to metal with the pads it usually only take up to .010 off total to clean up a rotor...
 
I tried a set of R1 rotors a few years ago on my Mercedes. They were drilled and slotted, but the first set they sent me had too much runout. When you spun them you could see it, didn't even have to put a dial indiacator on it. The replacements they sent me were okay. I'm also the type that changes the rotors instead of turning them. I drive my vehicles pretty hard so I'd rather change them.
 
Here are some facts that everyone should be mindful of, when looking at replacing rotors. Yes, the slotted and drilled rotors look cool, and in some cases they work incredibly well, but not in all.

Just some food for thought - consideration, when rotor shopping...

http://www.raybestos.com/wps/wcm/connect/0e0321004e69ea0389fdc9afe7d6441d/4533RAY.pdf?MOD=AJPERES


Very good info! To bad Raybestos doesnt make A-body rotors...or at least I cant find them. The only Centric rotors I can find are the Standard grade. The Wagner rotor is $16 more. Any reason for that or are they a better quality part....going off of RockAuto's website.....thanks
 
Here are some facts that everyone should be mindful of, when looking at replacing rotors. Yes, the slotted and drilled rotors look cool, and in some cases they work incredibly well, but not in all.

Just some food for thought - consideration, when rotor shopping...

http://www.raybestos.com/wps/wcm/connect/0e0321004e69ea0389fdc9afe7d6441d/4533RAY.pdf?MOD=AJPERES

Advertizements . I always believe them , they show a WORST CASE scenario not the average slotted crossdriled rotor . I have seen many ant rotor thickness is the same as OEM , not any thinner . Agreed they give no added performance just look good but what raysbestos printed is ad man copy sounds good but a stretch of reality , unkess your talking some cheapass crap rotors
 
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