R12 to R134a worth it?

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Smokedya

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My compressor nuked and now I have to replace my o rings and everything else in the system to clean it. I was thinking I might as well change the R12 to R134a but I heard that the R134a just doesn't work as good in the older cars as the setup is for R12. I was curious if it is worth it and what should the temperature be at?
 
My compressor nuked and now I have to replace my o rings and everything else in the system to clean it. I was thinking I might as well change the R12 to R134a but I heard that the R134a just doesn't work as good in the older cars as the setup is for R12. I was curious if it is worth it and what should the temperature be at?

If you can find "Freeze 12",nicely works.You need to that flush that system ( I would it twice,keep receipt's & all . They will ask for warranty,nowadays: An installed (by a shop),a new receiver/dryer,a new orifice tube, and a complete flushing.
Personally, freeze 12 does this correctly. Take your chances....
 
R134a works fine. Conversions turned out to be a fairly simple thing and replacing all seals and O-rings is not necessary. If you have an older system with the RV2 compressor you will have to remove the EPR valve from the suction port of the compressor, if it has one and convert it to a cycling clutch system. Not really a hard job if you know anything about AC systems. Make sure you flush the system if your old compressor was locked up.
 
Red Tek. Been using it for years and still working with my original factory compressor and hoses in my 72 Dart. Blows 40 degree °F air.
 
See here, here, here, and here for the info you need to do an optimal-working R134a conversions on an old Mopar. If you're working with a '74 or newer A-body factory A/C system, remove the EPR valve and install a clutch cycling switch (also applies to '62-up bigger cars, but A-body factory A/C had a clutch cycling switch and no EPR valve thru '73 -- the dealer/aftermarket "hang under the dash" systems have clutch cycling switch and no EPR regardless of year).

To answer a related question: Use R12, or do a proper conversion and use R134a. Don't use anything else. Any of the hydrocarbon (isobutane/isopropane) "refrigerants" -- "HC-12a", "RedTek", "OZ-12", etc. -- is a very seriously foolish gamble, and the "Colonel's Secret Blend of 13 Herbs and Spices" blends like Freeze-12, FRIGC, etc. may work in the short term, but their various ingredients leak at different rates, changing the composition of what's in the system so you can't just top up and have it work well...and most shops will not touch a system charged with something other than a legitimate refrigerant (12 or 134a).
 
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