Race engine winter storage question

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66Valiant528

66Valiant528

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Oil change. So yesterday was probably my last weekend run at New England Dragway. I'll be storing the car for the winter I usually put a 50/50 mix of green coolant in and put the battery in my basement on a shelf. I'm in Mass and it'll be cold in my unheated garage. My question is should I change the oil now? It probably has some acid and racing fuel in it. Would it hurt to leave it in the engine? Dump some zinc 20w50 Castrol in it and drain it in the spring? My pan holds 11 quarts so it's never cheap. I've got 12 quarts of Driven oil for next season. Also a K&N filter. Maybe throw on a Wix Racing filter that I've got laying around.?
What do you guys do?

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I'm glad you asked the question, I'm watching.
Nice time slips by the way
 
66Valiant528 said:
Oil change. So yesterday was probably my last weekend run at New England Dragway. I'll be storing the car for the winter I usually put a 50/50 mix of green coolant in and put the battery in my basement on a shelf. I'm in Mass and it'll be cold in my unheated garage. My question is should I change the oil now? It probably has some acid and racing fuel in it. Would it hurt to leave it in the engine? Dump some zinc 20w50 Castrol in it and drain it in the spring? My pan holds 11 quarts so it's never cheap. I've got 12 quarts of Driven oil for next season. Also a K&N filter. Maybe throw on a Wix Racing filter that I've got laying around.?
What do you guys do?

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Which driven oil are you using? XP doesn't have a rust inhibitor additive in it. I would change to an oil that does have a rust inhibitor for storage over the winter. Don't quote me but I think the driven HR series and the driven GP oils have the necessary additives for storage.
I also recommend that you fog the motor. There is a new product called Foggit that looks like a good product to use. Something is better than nothing.
If you have methanol or ethanol you should drain and flush the fuel system with some race fuel. Not a terrible idea even if you are on pump gas.
 
Now ya gotta tell us your combo. Those et's with those 60's. That thing is picking up and getting outta dodge lol. I'll be following as I have to prep mine for winter also.
 
I've decided to buy 2 jugs of Castrol classic 20w50 and throw a new Wix R filter on for the winter. It's a solid roller with T&D rockers. I plan on just starting the engine and running the oil for a minute or two only. I usually manually rotate the crank and tires during the winter. The oil is 53 bucks for the 10 quarts. My Driven XP4 is like 12.50 a quart. I figure dumping 65 bucks into winter storage is worth the benefit of removing the probably acidic and maybe a little 110 leaded contaminated. Driven XP4 and a synthetic media filter in the spring.
As far as the poor 60 ft times I'm working on it. I've taken 3 turns out total of my soft locker the last 3 track visits. Its presently at 5 turns away from just no addktional clamping load. 60 foot hasn't improved or deteriorated yet so I'll drop some more initial pressure before the next track visit.
This last weekend after I rolled the car out of the trailer to drive it around the pits to warm up the trans (Lenco) and the Strange 60 the car wouldn't move till I bought the rpms up. I was concerned , especially after I did an extra lame 60 of 1.6 something. Decided I could not condemn the clutch set up based on 1 run. Next run was the usual 1.55 so I stay and ran some more. McLeod said some people run no additional pressure on there clutch set up, just base pressure. Anyway I digress.
700 hp 528 wedge. Shift at 7200 . 430 rear with a 30 inch tire. Double adjustable Vikings all around. Great tech help there. I sent them a video of the car bunny hopping on the first 60 and squirmy on the 1 to 2 shift. Fixed. Sorry I can't figure out how to attach a video.
BTW the car weighs 3415 with me in it.
Heavy Browell bell, Lenco and a 4.5 bore Megablock which is 150 lbs heavier than a stock 440!

20231015_112538.jpg
 
92b said:
Which driven oil are you using? XP doesn't have a rust inhibitor additive in it. I would change to an oil that does have a rust inhibitor for storage over the winter. Don't quote me but I think the driven HR series and the driven GP oils have the necessary additives for storage.
I also recommend that you fog the motor. There is a new product called Foggit that looks like a good product to use. Something is better than nothing.
If you have methanol or ethanol you should drain and flush the fuel system with some race fuel. Not a terrible idea even if you are on pump gas.
Click to expand...
I will look into a fogger. Thank you
 
66Valiant528 said:
I've decided to buy 2 jugs of Castrol classic 20w50 and throw a new Wix R filter on for the winter. It's a solid roller with T&D rockers. I plan on just starting the engine and running the oil for a minute or two only. I usually manually rotate the crank and tires during the winter. The oil is 53 bucks for the 10 quarts. My Driven XP4 is like 12.50 a quart. I figure dumping 65 bucks into winter storage is worth the benefit of removing the probably acidic and maybe a little 110 leaded contaminated. Driven XP4 and a synthetic media filter in the spring.
As far as the poor 60 ft times I'm working on it. I've taken 3 turns out total of my soft locker the last 3 track visits. Its presently at 5 turns away from just no addktional clamping load. 60 foot hasn't improved or deteriorated yet so I'll drop some more initial pressure before the next track visit.
This last weekend after I rolled the car out of the trailer to drive it around the pits to warm up the trans (Lenco) and the Strange 60 the car wouldn't move till I bought the rpms up. I was concerned , especially after I did an extra lame 60 of 1.6 something. Decided I could not condemn the clutch set up based on 1 run. Next run was the usual 1.55 so I stay and ran some more. McLeod said some people run no additional pressure on there clutch set up, just base pressure. Anyway I digress.
700 hp 528 wedge. Shift at 7200 . 430 rear with a 30 inch tire. Double adjustable Vikings all around. Great tech help there. I sent them a video of the car bunny hopping on the first 60 and squirmy on the 1 to 2 shift. Fixed. Sorry I can't figure out how to attach a video.
BTW the car weighs 3415 with me in it.
Heavy Browell bell, Lenco and a 4.5 bore Megablock which is 150 lbs heavier than a stock 440!

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That thing is awesome. So cool!
 
When I used to store my car in the car trailer all winter long I would change the oil in the spring. I always seem to get some condensation/moisture on the underside of the valve covers. I'd usually do this a month or so before the season started as I'd check over things and check rockers, etc.
 
moparstud440 said:
When I used to store my car in the car trailer all winter long I would change the oil in the spring. I always seem to get some condensation/moisture on the underside of the valve covers. I'd usually do this a month or so before the season started as I'd check over things and check rockers, etc.
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My concern is that the oil that's in there now may be harmful. I store it in my concrete floor garage. It's insulated pretty well and dry but it does go below freezing.
 
Just a thought but no matter what oil you put in, wouldn't gravity take over and result in it all draining into the basepan anyway? All the contaminents and debris would then be in the basepan after winter storage. Then, drain the oil and put fresh oil in before starting it in the spring.
Seems like a fogger solution is better if it actually sticks to the engine's internal components.

Looking forward to responses as I've often wondered about this.
 
Yep, Mikie likie, my 66 is a fun street car and geared for the hwy, but she is light and tugs hard , 350+ hp, heavy stack 904 all new front end disk brakes, all mopar. 8 1/4 sure grip 2.87 gear. Love the 66 body and chassis, the first and the last of the early A's .

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I hope my post didn't get in the way, I stored this 360 and spun the dizzy with an old dizzy shaft, then turn the crank by hand on a breaker bare every 1/4 of the year for 8 years, I can't believe she has stored so good as it sat on an engine stand, I don't have blow by witch shocked me, 65 lbs oil pressure cold start up, 50 at idle. I used a 10- 30 John deer oil for storage. Had it on hand in 30 gallon barrel a farmer set me up with.
 
I will fog it with foggit as well as drain the contaminated oil out now. Change oil and filter. Fog it. Dispose of the oil and filter in the spring. Put in my XP4 and new filter. Cheaper than an engine!
 
I will also be getting a couple cans of foggit.
I'm not sure if I should leave the engine dry as in no coolant Or fill it with antifreeze. My engine isn't in the car and will also get wrapped up in a blanket
 
I got my engine back from the machine shop.
All bare metal, sprayed the cylinders & deck surfaces down with Foggit
Covered the block on the stand.
Ended up having some emergency surgery.
2 months later, no rust at all.
Works on guns also.
I spray all my engine down with it.
Great product!
 
From the point of view of an engine oil formulator, I would change the oil before storage as this gets rid of moisture and unburned fuel that accumulates in the oil during operation. Probably put a small amount of oil in the cylinders as well and crank till you have oil pressure. If you don't want to use expensive racing oil for storage oil, use HD Diesel engine oil like Delo 400 or Shell Rotella T SAE 15W-40. Get this at WalMart for less cost. Could even use Costco HD Diesel oil as they all meet the same specifications.
If you are anal, drain the oil in spring and spin the oil pump with a priming rod to build pressure before starting for the first time after storage.
Chemistry happens in used oil what builds up sludge and deposits that you don't want in the engine, so don't store the engine with dirty oil in it.
 
I also back off my rocker arms along with the other stuff mentioned.

Anyone use RV antifreeze instead of the automotive stuff?
 
Frank Mopar said:
Anyone use RV antifreeze instead of the automotive stuff?
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I have on boat engines. A boat engine has water pumping through the block when in use so it gets flushed out. You won't get it all out when your season begins. Do you run antifreeze or just water racing? Peacocks in the block could help get it out better.

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