raced a lt1 trans am tonight in my abody!

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So Big Tommy, at a roll of 20 - 25 mph, your friend is already in 2nd gear ( 1.78 2nd gear ) with his 4:56 and 6 speed...

Exactly what kind of drugs do you take?
 
HotLines said:
So Big Tommy, at a roll of 20 - 25 mph, your friend is already in 2nd gear ( 1.78 2nd gear ) with his 4:56 and 6 speed...

Exactly what kind of drugs do you take?
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i think it was slower then 20. i was at 1500rpm in first with 323 gears. my speedo dont work.
 
Tommy, it's a crazy world... My Signet with its stock roller cam 91 360 and its Dynamic 727 race trans with 3:55 gears doesn't come anywhere close to my lt1 6 speed 90 chevy pickup truck and both run excellent...
 
rumblefish360 said:
"Lost"

What is a sending unit or .......

Seriously?!?! It was spelled out to you twice.
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i know what i sending unit but i didnt know you meant the one in the tank. if your going to be a dick dont post. im new to the hp **** okay. im trying to learn more. so bear with it. and i cant spell either so deal with it
 
Spell check!!!!!

You'll so know when I'm being a dick. You'll be my new chew toy!
If you knew what a sending unit was/is, then there was no need for your question. It was spelled out to you.

I'm starting to think this whole post is just a farce!
 
rumblefish360 said:
Spell check!!!!!

You'll so know when I'm being a dick. You'll be my new chew toy!
If you knew what a sending unit was/is, then there was no need for your question. It was spelled out to you.

I'm starting to think this whole post is just a farce!
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x2
 
ur are spinning a 295-50-15 from 20 miles a hour with what stall whats your power band
 
Hey, bigtommy,

I reckon you are primarily interested in 1/4 mile runs??

Have you been to a drag strip and test / tune your car?

Does the engine and transmission run decent now?

If your engine - trans is running smooth, then focus on the suspension for a bit. All the 1/4 mile street races I saw won were primarily based on a good basic engine / trans, decent gear ratio and excellent traction.

You can learn alot of good from some people at the track, others will be a-holes and others will share lies and worthless bs info. You gotta sift thru it all and observe peoples cars while they run.
Look for cars like yours, basic setup but doing well. Best to go to a small track where you can talk with people similar to your setup.

If you are intent on drag racing, first like people said, focus on traction and hook to the ground.
I have seen stock engine cars w headers and intake run super fast (for a stock heavy car) and consistently because they focused on the suspension reaction and traction.

Start with decent basic drag race suspension setup. Soft T bars in front (you have slant six bars already??) Drag shocks front. Decent normal shocks in back. If you cant afford drag shocks, just put worn out shocks on the front and decent ones in back.

You want the car to raise dramatically in the front and settle slowly. This dumps the weight to the rear. Soft T bars and front drag shocks help this process.

An adjustable pinion snubber and learning how to use it will help the rear end "plant" and make the rear tires dig into the ground. It pushes up on the body which forces the rear end into the asphalt. It seriously helps traction when adjusted properly.

A drag race car usually does not handle very well around curves, so be careful!

Lastly but most importantly: hopefully you are racing somewhere far away from town on a long open space where you can be 100 % sure no one is coming or preferably in a vacant parking lot where there are no poles or buildings to run into and plenty of "shut down" space in case something goes wrong (which it does about half the time when you are running on low budget at high speed) or even more safely, at a track.

Don't be the ones giving hot rodders a bad name by racing in town in public areas :) Lots of folks died already and they were just trying to have fun 'till it was all twisted steel and dead people everywhere.
 
If his 318 is spinning tires that big at 20 mph then I gotta get me what he's having! You getting defensive Tommy is only going to be bad for you in the long run. We are here to help but getting pissed off over something very trivial is not necessary. If what you are saying is legit and not embellishing at all, leave your motor alone and like several people have recommended, get the suspension dialed in. Take it from a serious old street racer, nothing good comes out of street racing and its usually YOU that survives and innocent bystandars that ******* die. Don't be a fool take you're tool to the track
 
i said it was slower then 20. it was probably like 5mph roll. and my buddy was still in first.

rumblefish360 - you were being a dick so shut the f*ck up or leave. like all i asked was help. im new to this so you dont have to be a dick for my spelling. i dont need a bigger sending unit for power so why did you give that idea. just saying. i asked for ideas for more hp. im sorry i didnt know what you meant when you said 3/8 sending unit. okay. just drop it. beacuse all the sending unit and the bigger line is doing it bringing more fuel up but if the carb is the same size and stuff. the same amount of fuel is still going in the motor.

gtmopar - it wasnt on a road. they close the airport some sundays here and we raced on there. so nobody to get killed watching but thanks for you thought.

but too all that helped thanks. i think wanna do the air gap intake, rocker arms, the suspension, and nos. thanks.
 
bigtommy said:
i said it was slower then 20. it was probably like 5mph roll. and my buddy was still in first.

rumblefish360 - you were being a dick so shut the f*ck up or leave. like all i asked was help. im new to this so you dont have to be a dick for my spelling. i dont need a bigger sending unit for power so why did you give that idea. just saying. i asked for ideas for more hp. im sorry i didnt know what you meant when you said 3/8 sending unit. okay. just drop it. beacuse all the sending unit and the bigger line is doing it bringing more fuel up but if the carb is the same size and stuff. the same amount of fuel is still going in the motor.

gtmopar - it wasnt on a road. they close the airport some sundays here and we raced on there. so nobody to get killed watching but thanks for you thought.

but too all that helped thanks. i think wanna do the air gap intake, rocker arms, the suspension, and nos. thanks.
Click to expand...


Lol bolting on NOS is going to use MORE fuel. 5/16 is limiting.... even if you switch lines to 3/8 its still coming out a 5/16ths hole. These guys are trying to help you. On the top end a motor can actually starve for fuel which is where the bigger feed comes into play.
 
72ScampTramp said:
Lol bolting on NOS is going to use MORE fuel. 5/16 is limiting.... even if you switch lines to 3/8 its still coming out a 5/16ths hole. These guys are trying to help you. On the top end a motor can actually starve for fuel which is where the bigger feed comes into play.
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Okay thanks for being nice about it and explaining it but like I said. I'm just looking for hp cheap because I'm. Running this motor until it blews. But I understand I do need more fuel so thanks for that. But I think imma only run a 100shot. So with a bigger pump I feel the 5/16 will be good but ill read into it more. Thanks again everyone
 
Your telling me to shut the F-bomb up?!?! LMAO

GET YOUR **** STRAIGHT!

I'll not leave and you need to spell and construct a somewhat of a decent sentence.
But then again, if you want to make yourself look uneducated or plainly spoken, STUPID, the. By all means, go right ahead and continue to do what your doing.

Now, maybe this, 3rd time will be a charm. I'll even say it again in a different way so your little mind may understand that not only am I still here trying to help you out but yet again trying tell you that the sending units 5/16 fuel line is on the small side now (not to mention later on for your next engine) and it can use an upgrade to the larger sending units 3/8 fuel line.
The actual size of the sending unit has not changed.

Now, the demand of the engine with the extra power demands of adding the N02 will mean the engine requires more fuel. IT IS VERY POSSIBLE THAT THE NEW POWER DEMANDS CAN DRAIN THE CARB OF FUEL WITH THE SMALLER FUEL LINE A D KILL THE ENGINE!

Of course this is your plan right? Kill the engine after spending *** on a N02 kit the first few times out? Well Hell! Excuse me for trying to get your engine to live longer than your temper can.

Then you show your hypocrisy by then saying you understand it'll need more fuel!

Ethier your smoking dope or YOUR BEING A DICK.

Go ahead, make me leave.
 
A top fueler doesn't run on the engine. It runs on the clutch, which controls the power application to the tires. I'll say it again - If you're spinning at all, dead stop, roll, 5mph, 20mph - with those big tires and the engine you have - you need suspension work before you get an ounce more power. I used to street race a lot. My a 340 w/3.23s, that same camshaft, stock intake, cheapie headers, and a stick I'd drop the clutch at 3200rpm and floor it. The engine was chained down because it would rip engine mounts and detach the Z bar. I'd spin about a turn with an old school 275/60/15 radial GT Qualifier. Saying it left hard is putting it mildly. That car eventually got totalled (not related to street racing...) but when I took it apart the frame was twisted, the floor around the driver's seat mounting was torn, and the floorpan where the snubber hits was buckled up. That engine only made about 330hp but it never lost, including modified (80s vintage) 5.0 Mustangs, IROCs, big block Ford, Mopar, and GM... Never. Most were won by the time I hit 2nd gear because they spun a lot. So get your thoughts together, tell your friends whatever you want, but get the suspension worked out - it's FREE ACCELERATION.
 
HotLines said:
Tommy, it's a crazy world... My Signet with its stock roller cam 91 360 and its Dynamic 727 race trans with 3:55 gears doesn't come anywhere close to my lt1 6 speed 90 chevy pickup truck and both run excellent...
Click to expand...

i just wanted to redirect the chebbie lover / chebbie engine lover over to this other thread:

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=246814

440 duster vs. a top of the line ZL1 camaro

or should i say 440 duster schooling a ZL1 camaro
 
rumblefish360 said:
Your telling me to shut the F-bomb up?!?! LMAO

GET YOUR **** STRAIGHT!

I'll not leave and you need to spell and construct a somewhat of a decent sentence.
But then again, if you want to make yourself look uneducated or plainly spoken, STUPID, the. By all means, go right ahead and continue to do what your doing.

Now, maybe this, 3rd time will be a charm. I'll even say it again in a different way so your little mind may understand that not only am I still here trying to help you out but yet again trying tell you that the sending units 5/16 fuel line is on the small side now (not to mention later on for your next engine) and it can use an upgrade to the larger sending units 3/8 fuel line.
The actual size of the sending unit has not changed.

Now, the demand of the engine with the extra power demands of adding the N02 will mean the engine requires more fuel. IT IS VERY POSSIBLE THAT THE NEW POWER DEMANDS CAN DRAIN THE CARB OF FUEL WITH THE SMALLER FUEL LINE A D KILL THE ENGINE!

Of course this is your plan right? Kill the engine after spending *** on a N02 kit the first few times out? Well Hell! Excuse me for trying to get your engine to live longer than your temper can.

Then you show your hypocrisy by then saying you understand it'll need more fuel!

Ethier your smoking dope or YOUR BEING A DICK.

Go ahead, make me leave.
Click to expand...



okay i apologize but i don't like it when i don't understand something and somebody that is more knowledgeable then me "acts" like a dick to me. but now then you explained it out to me about the fuel plumping dry with the extra hp i understand. so thank you rumblefish360! and by the way whats ethier? you mean "either" spell check? lol. and for the motor. i'm not spending money on the nos just to fill it. my buddy is giving me his old setup he is not using anymore. but the reason i plan on blowing the motor is, i paid 100 for this motor. and i don't want to blow it intentionally but i wanna see what size shot it will hold until it blows or spins a bearing. and i knew all along that i needed better suspension, i have been working on piecing it together. just want to replace it when i have everything for it. and me spinning that big of tire with my motor set up. the tires are a older tires and they don't hook good. i had a 255 on it before and they hooked better then the 295 so that's why i spin that big and my motor being almost stock. but thanks too everyone. this post was very helpful to me and will do a post with all the changes i do.
 
How did I just know you would notice what I did on purpose.

Infant!
 
you did that on purpose i did the lostt on purpose who cares. but like i said thanks for explaining it to me. that's all i asked for
 
Yall all need to twist up a big fattie and pass it around.
 
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