Key words = only 400 h.p. !
That used to be enough. . . .
Key words = only 400 h.p. !
Aluminum oxidizes. It’s heat transfer will suck after it has been in long enough. I deal with aluminum oxidation all the time and, therefore, have a very low opinion of it as a long term useful product. It’s cheap.Considering ALL the factors of copper v alum for radiators, alum wins out. As long as it is welded/brazed not epoxied.
- while copper is a better heat conductor, larger tubes can be used in alum radiators which allow for more efficient fin design, the fins being what actually sheds the heat.
- the brass & solder used in copper rads are poor conductors of heat.
- the alum rad is more robust, especially in vehicles where it is NOT rubber mounted. The soft solder can crack/leak in copper rads from road shock/big pothole.
I would be interested in answers to your questions since I cannot find a copper radiator for my Dart.Doesn’t painting it solve the oxidation problem? Seems like copper oxidizes pretty rapidly as well. Are the oxidation issues similar?
hey johnny, now that you've had this in awhile, any update?...personal thoughts on griffin...
Yup, still 100% sold. Car will idle all day and barely hit 195. If it does get to 200, I flick the fan on, and it sucks it right down to 170 and maintaines. Money well spent.hey johnny, now that you've had this in awhile, any update?
yES CHAMPION IS THE BEST! i HAVE A 3 ROW WITH ELECTRIC FAN. iT KICKS ON AT 173 AND COOLS DOWN TO 158 BEFORE IT KICKS OFF!For my last daily driver, 1965 Dart 4 door,318,400HP to be completed, I need a radiator. Saw this one at Summit
1965 DODGE DART Summit Racing® Performance Fit Aluminum Radiators SUM-384034
Any good or a better selection? Thanks