Radiator Issue?

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Dana67Dart said:
My mistake. I thought you had added an overflow bottle.

Is overflow hose open?

IMHO if the brass t-stat was that bad I can't imagine what the rest of the cooling system looks like. I would pull rad, waterpump, timing cover and see what's going on in there.

Have rad professionally cleaned etc. Could be so much rust and gunk in the block.
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So just ask for a thorough cleaning when I bring the radiator in or is there more they should do?
 
I doubt its your rad. No point jumping to conclusions without an operating temperature gauge.
 
Tooljunkie said:
Step 1. Get a temperature gauge. Fix existing or install an aftermarket.
Fill engine with proper ratio of coolant and go for a ride.
If engine heats up under load,likely its a pinhole in head gasket.
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Are you referring to the temp gauge on the dash?
 
pacuda59 said:
So just ask for a thorough cleaning when I bring the radiator in or is there more they should do?
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Assuming as Tooljunkie pointed out there is a real need to clean the rad due to debris in your system my last recollection of properly cleaning a rad is to have the top and bottom tanks removed and then having the core cleaned or replaced as needed.

I also agree that a working temp gauge stock or cheap aftermarket would be very useful, just keep in mind if there is no flow the temp will not be reading correctly.

My gut is telling me that if the brass thermostat is that dissolved that the steel water pump impeller is gone as well and your freeze plugs and rad are suspect.

My assumption is that your engine is now working like a percolator coffee maker, boiling water and belching it out the overflow till there's nothing left to boil.
 
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Dana67Dart said:
Assuming as Tooljunkie pointed out there is a real need to clean the rad due to debris in your system my last recollection of properly cleaning a rad is to have the top and bottom tanks removed and then having the core cleaned or replaced as needed.

I also agree that a working temp gauge stock or cheap aftermarket would be very useful, just keep in mind if there is no flow the temp will not be reading correctly.

My gut is telling me that if the brass thermostat is that dissolved that the steel water pump impeller is gone as well and your freeze plugs and rad are suspect.

My assumption is that your engine is now working like a percolator coffee maker, boiling water and belching it out the overflow till there's nothing left to boil.
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I might have opened a can of worms when I did the CLR flush.
 
Do you have an oil pressure gauge, if so does it work? If all your gauges don’t work it could likely be an instrument voltage regulator (IVR).

The easy way out is to buy an aftermarket temp gauge & mount it under the dash. You can buy electric ones where the sender goes in the hole for the original temp sender. You can also get a mechanical one that goes in the top radiator hose. I have the one in the radiator hose and it works good and is easy to install.
 
That is the worst looking thermostat I've seen in my life! Get a digital temp gun too if you can. I have factory gauges etc but added a triple set below dash as added insurance
 
My plans for the car include an engine rebuild with a few mods to increase performance. This situation has me thinking I might move up the project and tackle everything at once.
 
67 dart inst panel.jpg
If you're going to put pockets full of coins into engine rebuild you'll surely consider more accurate aftermarket gauges. Meanwhile... working OEM gauges would be a great help.
There's a metal box thingy plugged into the back of your instrument panel called instrument voltage limiter. It wont break yer bank to take a stab in the dark replacing what is most likely cause of multiple thermal gauges inop.
It wont cure water loss at rotted leaking freeze plugs, etc.. but could prevent frying the engine beyond rebuildable.
Other than factory service manuals that are free downloads there are also ample related threads here and google images including the back of your inst' panel.
 
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RedFish said:
View attachment 1715313494 If you're going to put pockets full of coins into engine rebuild you'll surely consider more accurate aftermarket gauges. Meanwhile... working OEM gauges would be a great help.
There's a metal box thingy plugged into the back of your instrument panel called instrument voltage limiter. It wont break yer bank to take a stab in the dark replacing what is most likely cause of multiple thermal gauges inop.
It wont cure water loss at rotted leaking freeze plugs, etc.. but could prevent frying the engine beyond rebuildable.
Other than factory service manuals that are free downloads there are also ample related threads here and google images including the back of your inst' panel.
Click to expand...
Thanks Redfish.
More Information for STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS VRC601
 
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RedFish said:
View attachment 1715313494 If you're going to put pockets full of coins into engine rebuild you'll surely consider more accurate aftermarket gauges. Meanwhile... working OEM gauges would be a great help.
There's a metal box thingy plugged into the back of your instrument panel called instrument voltage limiter. It wont break yer bank to take a stab in the dark replacing what is most likely cause of multiple thermal gauges inop.
It wont cure water loss at rotted leaking freeze plugs, etc.. but could prevent frying the engine beyond rebuildable.
Other than factory service manuals that are free downloads there are also ample related threads here and google images including the back of your inst' panel.
Click to expand...
Question, do the aftermarket gauges fit in the dash or do they mount underneath the dash?
 
pacuda59 said:
Question, do the aftermarket gauges fit in the dash or do they mount underneath the dash?
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Fitting aftermarket instruments in the OEM inst' panel/housing varies from difficult to impossible depending on model. So either a mount added under the dash or aftermarket or homemade inst' panel.
 
RedFish said:
Fitting aftermarket instruments in the OEM inst' panel/housing varies from difficult to impossible depending on model. So either a mount added under the dash or aftermarket or homemade inst' panel.
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Got it. I'll order the voltage regulator and see if they spring to life.
 
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