radiator

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red cuda

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Im looking for a radiator to cool my 318/904 65 barracuda. but everything that I am seeing has the lower hose coming from the driver side, my lower hose comes out on the passenger side. did Chrysler make another water pump where the neck came out at the driver side?
 
The one that comes out on the passenger side is a 1970+ if I am not mistaken. Someone correct me if I'm wrong. Look at pics on Rockauto. Dennis
 
Take what fits to the radiator shop and have them swap the lower hose connection to what you need.
This is done for the Big Block cars.....an old trick used to get a rad to "cross flow" (top hose on one side lower hose on the other side) forces coolant to pass through the rad instead of short cycling in and out. Just a thought....easy done, especially if your wanting to re-do the rad anyway.
 
im gonna buy a new radiator, I just need to find one with correct outlets.

You need the the 1973 and up 22" Valiant etc. Get the regular 3 row. That's the year I had to use on my in my 5.9 Magnum swap. It was a slant 6 car, too. The slant six radiator covers 6' or so of the 22 inch opening. You can see my lower hose is on the passenger side. I did have to tell them to delete the 1+ inch hole for the bung that held a sensor on the passenger side top tank. My four core is the regular core, because it flows more air once an A/C condenser is put in front of it.

Call US Radiator, tell them what you have and get one of the best made units on the market that looks stock. If you search their website, you will see all the various outlet configurations. they will tell you which core to run.

Important!!! When you put which ever radiator you end up buying in your car, run a small cup shaped piece of moderately heavy hardware cloth screen with the bottom of the cone shaped screen pointing inside the top radiator opening. Leave enough hardware cloth sticking out to wrap over the inlet, then slide your radiator hose over it and clamp it up. Drive the car for a day and then clean the screen again. Do this for several days, or until the screen remains clean. This will catch a lot of the junk in your cooling system that would otherwise flow around while your driving and plug your new radiator down tubes up FOREVER.

Back flush the motor with the thermostat out from both directions, upper and lower hose. Also do the same thing to your heater core. Remove both hoses and flush in both directions with full garden hose pressure.

What motor do you have in it again? Never mind, I reread your post. Are you running a shroud? The 73 through 76 22" shrouds are almost impossible to find. Good luck there!

I haven't found on yet, and am now going to attempt to make a decent looking one out of sheetmetal, because I'm adding a stroker motor and putting a big A/C condenser in front of it along with a trans cooler. I always try my best to seal every side/ top and bottom opening up so nearly 100% of the air in front of the car has to pass through the condenser and radiator.
 

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I've used u s radiator over the years. correct new radiators oem style great product and people, my experience......
like he said, flush everything before installing.
I found a thrat once, maybe it was in slantsix.org, giving detailed how to flushing block and everything using a muratic solution.....
 
so all I need to do is buy a 69 water pump, then im in business for a correct radiator

If your radiator lower hose nipple is on the driver's side, the cast iron pump will work. How about the timing marks? On pre-69 the timing mark (or in earlier cases) timing tab was on the passenger side. In 70 the marker moved to the drivet's side to coincide with the change in the water pump. I mocked up a 72 motor that had the 70-up timing chain cover but used the cast iron water pump. I used the mid 60's removeable timing tab and remarked the balancer. Easy peasy!

sent from my iPhone
 
I installed a Champion 3 core in my 65. It has the correct pass side inlet for later model water pumps. My only issue with it is finding a fan setup that will fit it. It's so thick, I only have 1.5" between the fan pulley and the radiator core. I want to run electric fans but haven't found any that will fit yet. Aside from that the fit is good and the price is right.
 

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I mocked up a 72 motor that had the 70-up timing chain cover but used the cast iron water pump. I used the mid 60's removeable timing tab and remarked the balancer. Easy peasy!

sent from my iPhone

will I have any problems bolting up a 69 water pump to the later model timing covers?

See my comment above. Find TDC, add the earlier removeable timing tab, re-mark your balancer and you'll be good to go.
 
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