Radio cleaning and pre-emptive cap. repair?

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OK. Thanks. If they go through the hole side by side, I'll do that.
Just double checking eveything to be sure I have the correct connections!
 
I like the solder sucker suction pens, **** it, place teflon tip on solder joint, heat and click it. The pump sucks up any liquid solder and leaves a nice clean pad. Uses less heat than wick. Makes removing even large capacitors and 3 prong transistors easy.
 
AND NOW an annoying story from the old days. Many hears ago, I traded/ bought a "needs work" Heathkit linear RF amplifier, an SB-220. This is a fairly series piece of work, uses two big tubes (3-500Z) and runs around 3K--3300 volts on the anodes.

It runs what is called a "voltage doubler" power supply, and those must have two caps in the filter of equal value, or two banks of caps making up two equal values. The two banks are in series, so they must operate at the combined voltage of some 3200V

ANY way it was a long weekend, the amp needed new caps, and I wanted to "get on the air." So I went down to the basement "junk box" and found two military (WWII) surplus oil filled caps and put them in. I KNEW they were way under capacity rating, but thought 'worth a try.'

Months later I tore it down and installed the correct new caps. It turns out the WWII caps were SIX HUNDRED VOLTS APIECE rating!!!! In series, that's only 1200V rating working against more than 3000V!!!

Inside the box with the warning label is where the original caps mount

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The original has 8 caps in series, 200uf at 450v. So 8 X 450 gives you 3600V working voltage

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My comment about flux..........I notice some independent folk are selling Kester 1544 on egag. What they are doing, is buying Kester in bulk (1 gal minimum) and repackaging. Some of those are not bad prices. A gal is something between 89-100 bucks plus shipping, so that's over a buck an ounce. So figure from there. They have to make something, buy the bottles, etc. A couple of ounce bottle will last a long time.

I use the crap out of that stuff soldering the buss bars into the drive modules at work
 
That is good to know. I've been getting by with rosin core solder.. For the wick, this time I bought a roll impregnated with rosin on it.
I do have an old tin of Streamline no-corrosive flux.
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Radio is ready to reinstall.
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Here's that cap for anyone who may be curious.
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You have to be careful with so called no corrosive flux. Check the ingredients and google them. I had a can "I thought" was safe, and it turned out to be an acid based flux.
 
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