Raising the V8 in the Car

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coalman

coalman

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Any words of advice on this? Need to raise it about a half of inch to get the power steering box out. Also has anyone used the Bergman/Borgeson Steering Conversion Kit in an early A model?? If so what did you think? Thanks
 
How about with a floor jack which I have, I know the hoist will do it, don't have one...
 
coalman said:
How about with a floor jack which I have, I know the hoist will do it, don't have one...
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chryslerfat said:
I often use a floor jack with a piece of wood on it. It even works for the diesel trucks I work on.
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This is what I use also, and it works just fine.
I try to keep the piece of 2x6 towards the front of the pan on the corners so it doesn't dent it.

Whichever you decide watch out for your distributor cap when lifting it unless you have a big block. :D
 
Whichever you decide watch out for your distributor cap when lifting it unless you have a big block.
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Good advice. Just unbolt the front motor mounts, and use your floor jack as suggested above. leave the trans. mount bolted in, The engine will fall right back in place when finished.
 
when you get the floor jack up to where you need it, try to find some way of forcing it to stay up/open... jam a chunk of wood into the opening or stand a hammer up in there - something - they can slowly loose position and cause you some serious trouble - jacks are made to raise "it" up so you can put "it" on a stand - not to keep it up there.. 5/10min. is one thing.. too much more than that and you really should use a better support. Never crawl under anything that isn't solidly supported!
 
yup, watch the distributor cap against the firewall AND the fan against the radiator if you got a tight one. In the FSM, they use a brace that goes up top from inner fenderwell to inner fenderwell that gets attached to the block (carb stud?) to keep it raised once you jack it up. Like a hook on a piece of threaded rod that gets cinched up then tightened.
 

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pishta said:
yup, watch the distributor cap against the firewall AND the fan against the radiator if you got a tight one. In the FSM, they use a brace that goes up top from inner fenderwell to inner fenderwell that gets attached to the block (carb stud?) to keep it raised once you jack it up. Like a hook on a piece of threaded rod that gets cinched up then tightened.
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The smiley face. LOL
 
My 65 small block has a big hole in the bottom of the casting that aligns w/ a triangle opening in the K-frame. I put a 1/2"D steel rod thru there to the jack. Chock the wheels of the jack. Once lifted, slide 2"x4" wood between mounts and K-frame. Also, unbolt the motor mounts first. If you jack under the oil pan like most people, use 2x8 or plywood w/ newspapers on top to spread the force and not dent the pan. As mentioned, watch the distributor, and may need to remove the cap.
 
Does anyone know what the engine block casting differences are between the 273 and 360 on the left side? I am sure having a interference problems trying to get the old box out.. Thanks again
 
Finally got the blasted power steering box out of the car today, looks like it was made for a World War Two Army Truck. I can't believe how big it is and how hard it was to get out. I had to partially disassembled the box in the car to get the clearance I needed. The car has the long TTI headers which sure added to the problem.. Thanks for all the input....
 
I wouldnt attempt a power box extraction without pulling the driver head if you dont have a hoist to yank the whole motor out. Nail-biter time!
vbpgimage.php
 
To the nail biting, you can add blood from the fingers....
 
Here's what we did on my 63 Dart fitted with a 318 la, disconnect exhaust, remove drivers side EX manifold (headers may be adding to your problem) unbolt the engine mountings at the K member then jack up the motor with a floor jack, disconnect and withdraw the steering column, Power box can then be removed.

Are you doing a manual steering conversion? if so try this, use a Borgsen 3/4 36 spline (manual box spline) to 3/4 DD joint, then take a B body inner column and shorten to the required length, get a machine shop to machine the DD to the end of the shortened inner column, re assemble.

There is no welding or fabrication (or risk of failure!) involved and the cost involved was minimal.

Regards
Rob
 
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