Rallye Dash Resto

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I have a 66 Barracuda. I have completely re-built/painted the dash.

I have to remove 3 large screws around the main part of the dash, and the screws that hold the heater plate on. I had to use a allen wrench to remove the heater control knobs. Behind the heater plate there are a couple more screws. You might need to remove the ignition switch bezel. YES You have drop the steering wheel column. Un-hook the speedo cable. Remove the headlight switch, wiper switch (if necessary). There are probably some wires that are held on with nuts, and other plugs that just push on/pull off.
Be careful not to push on the faces of any of the gauges, and you might want to put some masking tape on any area that will come into contact with the steering column, and also on the column itself to keep things from getting scratched.

While you are doing this, you will want to take the time to check all of the wiring, connections, plugs, bulbs, and do any cleaning/painting necessary. Lubricate the speedometer cable, and check for any needed lubrication on the speedo gears, or whatever.

Save yourself the troupble of having to go in there again.

"DASH DIVING" is not fun, but I've been into my dash so many times I can almost do it blind folded.
 
mullinax95 said:
I asked about the same question yesterday and didn't get much feedback. Check post #46 above. I did a search and found out that you indeed need to drop the steering column to make it easier. I wouldn't remove it if I could help it but just dropping it down.

Nice Cuda. I like the white stripes!
Click to expand...
Remove negative battery cable !
Set the park brake !
Working from the left door opening, remove the one screw that holds the fuse box up. Pull the headlight switch to full on position. push fuse box away just far enough to get a hand in the right side of the headlight switch and press the little release button so to fully remove the headlight switch stem.
Remove the retainer nut from the swictch and let it fall out (it aint going far).
Remove 4 screws in the plastic steering colum cover and rotate it out bottom first as they sometimes hook under the bezel (dont break it).
If colum shift automatic go ahead and lower the shift lever to drive.
Remove 3 colum support attaching nuts (or 3 niuts and 1 bolt depending on year model). The colum wont drop far , but enough.
Now we go whip the heater conrols....
A small allen wrench will remove the 2 chrome lever ends there.
Remove the ashtray and its hanger. Disconnect lighter well and lamp if so equiped.
Now the radio... This is tricky since so many dont have the stock radio today. Aftermarket radio ? You're own your own there.
For stock radio the 4 knobs pull straight off. Theres a thin nut (9/16 hex) to remove on each stem. Remimber to be careful putting these back. They are very easy to cross thread. The radio support is slotted at the nut on rear center of radio so to just loosen that nut should do. One screw to remove at the bottom of support and dash and it should fall out. The radio antenna cable it in the right side rear and should pull right out (take mental note of where it plugs in so it dont go into the wrong hole when going back. It would get hung and really tick you off). The radio should push out of the bezel and fall out except for the power and speaker wires. You could just move it down and toward the gas pedal but I really dont like leaving stuff hanging from 40 year old wires. I'll unplug those and lay the radio down.
having fun yet ? Where were we ? Oh yeah heater controls...
You'll need a 1/4" drive ratchet, 3/8 hex socket, and a short extension.
The 2 samll bolts we're after now are attaching the heater controls. One is between the fan switch and the levers. The other is on the right end of the lever slots. You'll reach in from bottom up which is why we removed the ashtray and radio. Here's tip... when we start to reinstall thes 2 bolts we'll use playdough, chewing gum, something to adhere the bolt head shallow in the scocket so not to drop the bolt 383836365 times. LOL
Now working right to left, remove all the chrome phillips head screws attaching the bezel to the dash.
Back at the left doorway ? Good. Seek the speedometer cable comming through the firewall and push it toward the speedometer so it push the bezel out of the dash a couple inches. Now you should be able to see behind the left side and using the 1/4" drive stuff we had before, minus the extension, remove the 2 wires (red and black) from amp gauge (mental note again which is closest to you).
You'll also disconect a 3 wire connecter to the smaller printed circuit board. BE CAREFULL ! A shot of WD-40 will help on these. Pull them straight away from the board without bending the pins. The round many wire connecter on the main circuit board can be tough to remove. WD-40 again. If you find you need to pry between the connecter and the panel, USE PLASTIC. A screw driver could damage the copper trace on the board.
The speedometer cable will be either nutted on or have a white plastic end with a limb that serves like one half of a clothes pin. Cable pulls straight away.
Only thing left is the harness connecter on the wiper switch. These usually come off much easier than the one on that headlight switch. I saved the wiper switch for last for a reason. I needed you to be on the right end as the instrument panel comes out. This end of the plastic bezel is extermely fragile (surely you've seen them broken before). It's out. Wasn't so bad was it :)
Another word of warning... As the instrument panel goes to the work bench it will get turned upside down and handled a lot. There's a small area at the back of the center gauge opening where you may be tempted to grab and lift with one hand. Problem is, one of the printed circuit boards overhangs the potmetal just enough to allow you to break it.
DOHfactor-1.jpg

It is possible to drive the car without the instrumnet panel but PLEASE DO NOT RECONNECT THE BATTERY and/or attempt to start the car in its current state. Ask what needs to be done first !
 
Wow!

Thanks Redfish, Glow worm.

I have removed a dash from a 68 Charger before but it is always really good to ask someone that has done it first hand. Always something different on each car.

I have put this in my Barracuda folder so when I start taking the dash out I'll have it in hand.
 
Longgone said:
Good write up Redfish , I can almost feel the scratches on my arms as I read. Lol!
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I donate blood to John Q. Public every 8 weeks. I wont go there with arms looking like I defeated a barbed wire garter belt.
Wear long sleeves when working in dashes and doors. There are some razor sharp edges in both.
Thanks for compilment on the write up. It was coffee powered recollecting and I probably forgot something.
As Glow worm said there are a lot of little maintanance touches that can be done while the panel is out. Different thread :)
 
You covered it pretty darned well . . . I was impressed.

I went thru 5 strands of barbed wire on a motorcyle and came out looking better than when I worked on my dash the first tiem . . . .LOL!
 
Speaking of Ralleye dashes, how difficult is it to remove the guage lenses? Do they just pop off or is there some type of technique required?

I'm waiting for a reproduction dash as well and wanted to get an idea how difficult it was to swap the lenses.
 
I got my dash from P&G ,It is great looking considering I've been looking at the old cut up one for 15 + years still have to install the lenses and guages but I'm really happy :thumblef:
party019.jpg

party020.jpg
 
to disassemble a panel you'll need a soldering iron. Apply heat to the melted spots while pulling down on the center cones removing those first then prying up GENTLY on the lens frame. Most times I get a tiny plastic doughnut like piece to come off the posts and I save those in a pill bottle to re apply again with the soldering iron.
You can soak the lenses with Wesleys blech-white in a plstic bowl to clean off overspray or whatever. The only plastic pieces that you can't saok to clean are the two red lenses with paint letters
 
That resto cluster looks good, I can't wait to get mine. Another quick question, when I removed my bezel/cluster I noticed that I had every type of screw in the book, self-tapping, wood screws, cheese-head screws, etc. Would one of you be able to tell me what are the proper screws to affix the cluster to the dash frame and where to source them?

Thanks for yor help.
 
stimpy29 said:
That resto cluster looks good, I can't wait to get mine. Another quick question, when I removed my bezel/cluster I noticed that I had every type of screw in the book, self-tapping, wood screws, cheese-head screws, etc. Would one of you be able to tell me what are the proper screws to affix the cluster to the dash frame and where to source them?

Thanks for yor help.
Click to expand...
They are phillips, heads of about 3/16" dia. and 1/8" tall and chrome plated.
When I needed chrome screws for a aftermarket steering wheel I used google search.
www.mrgusa.com specializos in automotive hardware and may have those.
 
RedFish said:
They are phillips, heads of about 3/16" dia. and 1/8" tall and chrome plated.
When I needed chrome screws for a aftermarket steering wheel I used google search.
www.mrgusa.com specializos in automotive hardware and may have those.
Click to expand...

Thanks a bunch, I'll get in contact with them and see what they have.
 
Just got my repro bezel today. It really looks good, I'm impressed. Going to install it next weekend. I'll post how it goes and how it fits. I got the piece for the glove door box too. I'm hoping it will make a huge difference in the look of the interior.
 
stimpy29 said:
Just got my repro bezel today. It really looks good, I'm impressed. Going to install it next weekend. I'll post how it goes and how it fits. I got the piece for the glove door box too. I'm hoping it will make a huge difference in the look of the interior.
Click to expand...

Did you get new lenses too?
 
No, I did not. I was hoping it wasn't going to be too difficult of a job to swap in my old ones. How did you make out?
 
stimpy29 said:
No, I did not. I was hoping it wasn't going to be too difficult of a job to swap in my old ones. How did you make out?
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Changing out the lenses is not bad and will be fine as long as the centers are in really nice condition. If they`re not then they`ll stand out like a sore thumb. I`m torn between getting my existing dash refinished or getting one from PG Classic. If I go with PG, I think it`ll look weird if I don`t buy the new lenses too, but by the time I do that I`m over $600.00. I think I`m going to end up getting mine refinished but will miss the car during the downtime.
 
luckymopar416 said:
I got my dash from P&G ,It is great looking considering I've been looking at the old cut up one for 15 + years still have to install the lenses and guages but I'm really happy :thumblef:
party019.jpg
Click to expand...

Could you show us a close up detail shot of the temperature area painted raised lettering and outlines??

Same for other painted raised lettering and outlines???
 
As requested, here are some close ups of the dash bezel. Let me know if you need any other pics.

heat1 (Small).jpg


lights1 (Small).jpg


glovebox (Small).jpg


flasher1 (Small).jpg
 
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