Ram tranny problems

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kempkan

kempkan

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I know this is an a body site but I was hoping to get the help of some people who know and love mopars. I just bought a 98 ram ext. cab 4x4. Everything seemed fine I got in test drove it got on it a bit and nothing. Well needless to say on my way home I hit a stop light about an hour after I left this guys place(it was a 2 hour drive) and I went to pull out and no first gear. Talk about upset. Reverse works fine but isn't the reverse and first band the same thing? It just will not pull out in first I have to baby it and if I get a hill I'm done for. What do I do? Rebuild? Junkyard tranny? If I do rebuild what's a reliable kit and where do I get it? Thanks guys and gals for all the help. Btw the fluid is full.
 
I for got to add that I tried moving the shifter to first manually and still nothing. The abs/brake light is on too. Speedo doesn't work up to 20mph then its fine. I'm guessing the speed sensor on the pumpkin. Any other ideas?
 
thats were i would start . some times the most simple stuff will screw u . evin a fresh filter and fluid change can help . also in the tranny there is a pressur swithch and a governer switch they work together they are electric controled . easy to change under 150 $ done i to about 3 trannys when thye mess up acts like tranny is junk try that before u go spending 2500 on a rebuild
 
I thought that the govenor would throw a check eng, light. I have full access to a snap on modis if I need it. I don't have a light on so I just figured she was done. Can it be bad without throwing a light? Thanks guys.
 
Ok the ont thing that really stands out for me is that you just bought this vehicle. That means you really do not know the service history. If the previous owner had recently had the transmission fluid changed there is a great possibility billy jo bob down at the quickie lube put in dexron with a friction modifier. I do not care what anybody says dexron with an additive doesn't turn it in to ATF-4 and you will have problems exactly like hwat you are experiencing. First thing and the creapest is to change the fluid in the trans with ATF-4 and get a good look in the pan while you are at it just in case there is some other evidence floating around indicating a more serious problem. One of our drivers came in two weeks ago bummed that he was going to have to buck up for a new trans in the wifes mini van because it would hardly move. My first question was "did you recently have the trans fluid change?" His response "yes" Told him to go back and do it himself and use ATF-4. Has had zero problems since.
 
Well I was playing around changing the tranny fluid and its nothing but metal shavings. Replace with junkyard one or rebuild? I don't want to do it twice and I'm definitely not paying some of these tranny places 2 grand. I have all the tools to do it but I've only done one other tranny and it was out of a jimmy. I think a 4L60E? Maybe? Its been a while like 7 years ago. Same concept on basically all rwd trannys right? I just don't want to get over my head but I don't want to pull it back out if the junkyard one belongs in the scrap pile too. Opinions?
 
Basically the front half of the trans is 727 with an overdrive unit on back, and in the back of unit there's a spring with like 600 pounds of preload on it. It's down in the back if you take the od/ tailshaft off it won't fly apart, but just be aware of it being in there, and loaded because it will ruin your day. Sounds like one too many times trying to rock it out of a mud hole or neutral drops killed the forward clutch pack. If you do the trans be sure to inspect the roller clutch for rolled/bent pins, and the planetary carriers for cracks and loose pinions
 
there is an abs sensor on the rear end..and a speed sensor on the trans..

i have had to replace both during the years on my 99 Ram ...if the speedo is acting weird it usually is the speed sensor on trans....abs light...sensor on top of rear end..

you can easily do change them out...
 
as far as rebuilding the 46RE...as said the front half is a 727...the overdrive unit is pretty easy to rebuild also...

there is actually a video out on rebuilding the overdrive that I used ...have done 42rh...46rh and 46re...not that hard...
 
Well the abs scan said the rear abs sensor fault. One problem narrowed down. As for the tranny I talked to a guy who all he does is mopar trannys at a local dealership said that a lot of plow trucks get these symtoms. I guess if you go low to reverse repeatedly that its a common problem. He said pull the pan and look for a 2 inch flat piece of metal on the bottom of the pan or on top of the vavle body. He said this piece of metal holds the low/reverse band in place and sometimes falls out when used hard. No light will come on and reverse will work most of the time. He said he thinks you can spin the band and put it back in without a full tear down. I've never had one apart does this make any senseto anyone else?
 
kempkan said:
Well the abs scan said the rear abs sensor fault. One problem narrowed down. As for the tranny I talked to a guy who all he does is mopar trannys at a local dealership said that a lot of plow trucks get these symtoms. I guess if you go low to reverse repeatedly that its a common problem. He said pull the pan and look for a 2 inch flat piece of metal on the bottom of the pan or on top of the vavle body. He said this piece of metal holds the low/reverse band in place and sometimes falls out when used hard. No light will come on and reverse will work most of the time. He said he thinks you can spin the band and put it back in without a full tear down. I've never had one apart does this make any senseto anyone else?
Click to expand...

He's apparently talking about the band strut that connects the band to the adjuster pivot but the one that connects the rear band is not 2 inches long. It's only about 1" long. Doesn't matter anyway cause the low/reverse band is not applied in drive. Only when you pull it down into low does the low band apply. The front band strut is about 3" long. Sounds like he's confused as to what band does what.

To answer your question of "does this make sense", my answer is no. I don't care if he's rebuilt 10 million Dodge transmissions he should know the rear band strut is very short and if it fell out there is no way on God's green earth reverse would ever work. He should also know that the low band isn't even used in 1st gear unless you manually shift down into low gear.

BTW: I have seen the front band strut fall out and when that happens you only have 1st gear. No 2nd or high gear.

My bet is since you found a bunch of metal shavings in it when changing the fluid it needs rebuilt/replaced. When you had the pan down changing the fluid you should have seen the band strut if it had fallen out. As for going with a junkyard trans. remember this, if it's in a junkyard it's probably there for a reason. Maybe the engine, maybe the transmission? If you find a low mileage wrecked truck you might gamble on it.
 
Well I guess its rebuild time then. I found a bunch of rebuild kits but I'm a little scared to trust any. I don't want a bunch of ebay parts controlling my trans. Any reliable sources out there?
 
kempkan said:
Well I guess its rebuild time then. I found a bunch of rebuild kits but I'm a little scared to trust any. I don't want a bunch of ebay parts controlling my trans. Any reliable sources out there?
Click to expand...

Yep.. Plenty of good sources. Here's a couple good ones

http://www.bulkpart.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=2&Category_Code=Chrysler

https://www.wittrans.com/default.aspx

The first link is one I have ordered from several times. You have your choice of stock type parts or HP parts. Mike is very knowledgeable on Mopar transmissions and great to deal with. Prices are real good too.

The last link is one another member on the board turned me on to and claims they are good to deal with. One great thing about them is they also have a lot of hard parts you can't hardly find anywhere else.
 
This may seem weird but another member had trouble with his Ram trans and it was 'fixed' by cleaning the battery terminals. Seems the computer doesn't like even momentary shortages of power. He cleaned his and the trans shifted properly.
 
cudadriver said:
This may seem weird but another member had trouble with his Ram trans and it was 'fixed' by cleaning the battery terminals. Seems the computer doesn't like even momentary shortages of power. He cleaned his and the trans shifted properly.
Click to expand...

His was acting completely different. His had all the gears working properly but it kept kicking out of lockup mode real easy.
 
What actually controls first gear that different from the rest? I've always seen cars losing multiple gears and not just one. I'm trying to understand how it works instead of just slapping stuff into it. Anyone can throw plates and a converter in. Could the regulator/govener sensor be bad? Could it be because the abs and the computer not realizing the truck is moving until 20mph causing it not to grab first? Sometimes it the simple stuff that's gets you.
 
on the 46rh and 46re i used the transtar deluxe kits from northernautoparts.com
 
Oh and the metal shavings in the drain pan may or may not be from my trans. My brother just informed me that the pan I used was also under his car draining the diff fluid. He blew the rear end apart and didn't brake clean the pan. After I drained the trans fluid into our container to take it in I seen ball bearings and that's when he told me. I didn't even check to see if the pan was clean I did it in the dark with a little flash light. I know I just made it more complicated by not checking after his lack of cleaning.
 
It didn't look too bad. There was some stuff there but I don't think it was excessive. No big chunks. I'm just getting frustrated. No one will touch that tranny for less than 1200 bucks. They claim that valve body, converter, clutches, and all the electronics need replaced if its opened up. Why? If its not broke don't fix it. Nothing else slips it shifts when it should (except first of course). I can't even find a tranny around here, only 5 speeds, and if I do find one I bet I won't touch it for a grand. I can get a 5 speed trans for 400 and the pedals shifter hydraulics and computer for not much more at a u-pull it. Just get the vin flashed to the new computer and go. Sorry I'm just venting. I just don't know what direction to go. I keep second guessing everything.
 
kempkan said:
What actually controls first gear that different from the rest? I've always seen cars losing multiple gears and not just one. I'm trying to understand how it works instead of just slapping stuff into it. Anyone can throw plates and a converter in. Could the regulator/govener sensor be bad? Could it be because the abs and the computer not realizing the truck is moving until 20mph causing it not to grab first? Sometimes it the simple stuff that's gets you.
Click to expand...

Here's the mechanical sequence:

1st gear--only the rear clutch is engaged when you have it in drive. When you pull the shifter down into manual low it applies the rear band along with the rear clutch.

2nd gear--The rear clutch is still engaged just like it was in first gear but now the front band applies and if you were manually shifting it the rear band dis-engages.

3rd gear--The rear clutch and front band disengage and the front clutch applies.

I don't know the electronic units so I can't say what's happening there but you could be right about the ABS sensor causing a reading that's confusing the computer. Before I did anything else I'd replace it. With these new electronic unit's any one little thing can goof them all up.
 
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