Ramcharger electrical troubles

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I've said this many times, "the path." Take a symptom, and start by troubleshooting that as if it were the ONLY problem. Sometimes that can lead you to a fault that fixes MORE than one.

"Let's say" the headlights seem to be dim. Get into the book, and get into your mind "the path." Where does "it" come from and where does it "go?" Battery--fuse link--bulkhead--whatever--ammeter?? ---whatever---light switch---bulkhead---some connectors or other---etc---etc---headlight connectors---AND GROUND---and follow the GROUND back to the battery

Now check as you can "along that path" and just cherry pick the "easy parts" first. You might think the light switch is going bad. Maybe so. But it might be easier to check first at the bulkhead connector or the dimmer switch and work your way towards that "end," than to cause aggravation and pain of getting to and getting "out" the light switch.

Try not to get yourself frustrated and buried and mired in complications. Pick a major symptom/ problem and try and find that first.

Someone mentioned "dirty ignition switch." CERTAINLY. This is why on the 'A's I have sometimse suggested guys add a relay to handle underhood ignition loads from the key.
 
Thanks all! I spent about half day on it today. My plan was to bring it in the garage but when I went to start it the battery had 0.0 volts. I left the interior light on. Learned this after hooking up the battery charger. Actually kept tripping the breaker in the charger until I turned off the inside lights. Which led me down the path to look at the lighting circuits. Pulled headlight switch cleaned the terminals and put it back in. Also Found really corroded passengers headlight plug. Cut it back, replaced the wires about 8" into the harness where the wires were not brittle. Added an extra ground wire for that side.
After I did that I tried starting the engine. Nothing with the wheel tilted all the way up. Lowered it down slightly and fired right up. Checked battery voltage and it's not producing. Tried adding a ground to the alternator. No change. Swapped voltage regulator. No change. Swapped to the original alternator and nothing. Swapped to newer regulator and slightly charging 13v. I can pull the field wire off with it running and it sparks and engine changes tone/rpm a little. I am going to get my alternator tested and go from there.
I will say that now the flashers, headlights, brake, and turn signals on they are working as they used to. I am not confident that I found the source of the problem. I still need to replace the fusible links since I ran out of time to work on it. I think I will pull the ignition and headlight switch and replace them as well.
Thanks fellas! I am going to keep at it and hopefully find the source for the problem soon!
 
You can test the alternator--which is the best way--on the vehicle, as you can also see if it's actually the alternator or VR or the wiring

I tend to divide the charging system into "rough" sections, no particular order
1....The output circuit wiring. This is the entire path of the heavy charging circuit from the alternator to the battery
2...Field/ VR wiring. This includes the power supply to one field terminal from the key, the wire back to the VR, the VR ground, and the power (blue) coming from the key to the VR
3...VR
4...Alternator

A...HOW TO "full field" test the alternator and output circuit
Disconnect the VR (green) at the one alternator field. "Rig" a jumper---wire with a 1/4" spade/ flag terminal to fit the field terminal, or an alligator clip jumper. Jumper the terminal at the alternator which had the green to ground.
Turn on key to "run." Measure OTHER (blue) wire terminal with the blue connected and the formerly green terminal grounded. You should have 12V or close at the blue.

Start engine, while monitoring battery voltage, slowly bring up RPM and see if system charges and if battery V starts to "come up." If it does keep RPM/ voltage below 16V

If no good result, move meter from battery to the alternator output stud. If that voltage goes quite high, say more than 2V higher than battery, then you have an open or very poor connection in the path from the alternator output to battery

If the above works, now check out the VR and VR wiring.

B....Reconnect green wire to field, disconnect blue wire. Ground the alternator field terminal formerly connected to blue to ground

"Rig" a way to jumper across the two VR connector terminals. Small machine screws work for this with a jumper wire. Turn key to "run" and measure green wire terminal at alternator, with everything connected as described. You should have 12V at green wire.

Now run engine as before, and see if it charges. If so, the VR path is healthy

VR. Make ABSOLUTELY CERTAIN that VR is grounded. Scrape around mounting bolts on firewall, and front and back of VR. Remount with star lock washers. Make CERTAIN you have a good jumper between engine block or battery and the body/ firewall.

"Work" the VR connector in/ out several times to "scrub" the VR terminals and "feel" for tightness. Examine the inside of the terminals with a strong light for corrosion/ damage. You can buy VR pigtails from such as NAPA

If everything above checks out and it will not charge, do a final "recheck" of the VR/ wiring. Start with everything wired "normal." Pull VR connector, and "rig" a jumper to ground from the green wire. Start, run, check for charge. If charging, recheck that you have 12V at the blue VR connector. If that is so, and if you are CERTAIN the thing is grounded---replace the VR

ALSO READ THE BOOK and look for the alternator field amperage test. It is possible that the alternator rotor (field) is partially shorted and drawing too much current---blowing up VR's
 
I took the alternator to the parts store to have tested and it was no good. It had zero output volts. I will have a new one on Monday.
I'm amazed that my MSD was firing at this point. The battery must have had just enough to trigger the module.
Thanks again!
 
From the top picture of post #14 ; the round white plastic thingie is a pull apart connector. It corrodes with age and battery acid fumes. Plus the red wire heated up for a reason.
 
Did you get your Ramcharger fixed? Seemed to me that that the fusible links would be the first place to go as Garret was suggesting. I also have had issues with my 85 Ramcharger in those fusible links that I repaired a few years ago. I thought about putting in fuse box under hood, but have not had a problem since the repair. My “beast” sits outside while my Duster is the garage also.
 
Blaine said:
Did you get your Ramcharger fixed? Seemed to me that that the fusible links would be the first place to go as Garret was suggesting. I also have had issues with my 85 Ramcharger in those fusible links that I repaired a few years ago. I thought about putting in fuse box under hood, but have not had a problem since the repair. My “beast” sits outside while my Duster is the garage also.
Click to expand...
Yes and no. I am waiting on parts to arrive. New headlight and ignition switches. They had some questionable spots on them so I ordered new ones. I got the alternator changed today and its changing now. The weather has not been cooperative this week and haven't gotten the fusible links changed yet. Waiting over a week for parts...
On another note while waiting on parts. The Duster finally runs, brakes done, and driving. First time since around 2000ish.
 
Glad you found bad alt. Need a good power supply for all to work. Musta felt good to drive the Duster after 20 some years.
 
Do yourself a big favor. Some rebuilt alternators come incorrectly configured, or just "broke parts" Take your meter and check continuity between the two brushes. Should have a low resistance. More importantly, check continuity from each brush to the CASE. Should be open, infinity
 
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