rb main stud girdle

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paul smart

paul smart

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hey fellas just wondering whos running a main stud girdle on their big block and curious if tour running a windage tray.just doing the math if running both you would have to run 3 oil pan gaskets
 
What if you welded the windage tray directly to the girdle? Should be pretty simple if they're both steel products.
 
I was wondering the same thing...

I saw yesterday that Summit has a windage tray that replaces the oil pan gasket as it has silicone around the edges like a steel valve cover. Looked like a good idea.

Does anyone know what windage tray I need for a 4.25 stoke crank with Chevy journals?
 
Use a stock stroke windage tray. Silicone the girdle to the block, then silicone windage tray to the girdle, use one gasket between pan and windage tray. That's the way I do them.
 
paul smart said:
if i tack welded the windage tray to the girdle you migh not be able to acces the bolts correct?
Click to expand...

I silliconed the girdle to the block and didn`t go around the pan bolt holes(like a dumbass) every pan bolt is dripping oil. getting ready to pull the engine back out, as i want to check some other stuff anyway---bob
 
Like said above, you don't use a gasket between the girdle and the block. I just used a gasket on each side of the tray.
 
OLDSTYLE said:
Use a stock stroke windage tray. Silicone the girdle to the block, then silicone windage tray to the girdle, use one gasket between pan and windage tray. That's the way I do them.
Click to expand...

Me 2!
 
Here is one of the IJ scrapers. It needed to be cut in several places to fit around the girdle. Second round of pics show it without a girdle
 

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Yes they have their own rubberized gasket built right into the tray, I only use some rtv at the intersections on the corners. Its a nice tray, and inexpensive to boot.

Email me jim, I will hook you up.
 
Usually when structural parts are bolted together, there isn't a gasket, and silicone can't be used. Silicone doesn't squeeze out entirely, and won't allow intimate contact. What does squeeze out can clog passageways. I've seen spun bearings with a chunk of silicone stuck in the crank. I've also seen spun main bearings when silicone was used to seal an engine case together, and didn't allow the proper crush on the bearings. In such situations, I've used Permatex Aviation Gasket Sealer, but Mopar has a special product called Bed Plate Sealer, which would probably be good on the #5 main cap. I have a feeling that the pan rail of a big block Mopar isn't accurately machined enough for that, but they make another sealant that says it will fill irregularities up to .030"



Here's the Bed Plate Sealant
 
When we use a girdle, we dust the pan rail to make sure its flat and true to the crank centerline. And I always use "The Right Stuff" to seal it to the block, thin layer.
 
paul smart said:
no problem using the right stuff no leaks mike
Click to expand...

just put the 505 back together. used a .300 thick main girdle and the new windage tray from summit. like the way it went together, less hassles, less chance for leaks. not sure if the windage tray will be as effective w/ the girdle , but what the h--l, I tried ! am pissed off tho, I made a special valley cover that you could see thru, a permanent install. didn`t leak and you could look at the upper internals w/ a flashlight. got some bg chem tool on it and ruined the clearness of it!! damm !:banghead::banghead::banghead:
 
Just to pile on I was wondering this same thing. I called 440source and they said to use silicone on the girdle/block.
 
On the clear valley tray. If its plastic I would think you can sand and buff it back out. About the crank scraper. Metal I assume,how thick and what clearance to the rotating assembly is ideal? Thanks!
 
I installed the same deal but with the alum. caps and studs and half concreted the block. Just used the plain old gaskets. Works fine. I used what I had on hand for a scraper due to the extra quarter inch added to the pan rail most any will fit.
 
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