Re-Paint ??... Pro's Chime In....

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pastortom1

pastortom1

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I have a project in the shop that appears by all accounts to have been sprayed many moons ago (a repaint over the original finish) with Acrylic Enamel & Hardener, no clear coat.

There's a good amount of dirt in the finish.....the car needs to be blocked, a couple small dings taken care of, and resprayed properly.

WITHOUT stripping completely, just properly blocking and prepping, what paint systems will "mate-up" (preferably OTHER than Acryl.Enam.), with or without the use of specified sealers.....? And what, if any clearcoats could then be used to give as close as possible the look of a modern base/clear system when finished?
 
Is there a reason you don't want to use a base clear? Cost? You could look into a discount paint line and get a lower cost version of a base clear for a reasonable cost. PPG's Omni line might be a good choice for you.
 
I just painted my truck with paint from Trinity, www.paintforcars.com and it turned out pretty good. The paint which was a gallon of each,base/clear, 1 quart of activator and 2 quarts of reducer came as a kit for $165.00 plus shipping. I have no complaints with the quality of thier product. They also sell primers and sealers cheap.

Jack
 
I am sure no pro, but have painted about 10 of my cars. It seems each one got better, as I did, and as I acquired better equipment.

Good paint jobs are all about preparation, as is adhesion. If you get the surface properly prepared, then use a sealer, and then a self etching primer, you should be good, no matter what paint brand or type you choose.

Good luck with it!
 
HemiEd said:
I am sure no pro, but have painted about 10 of my cars. It seems each one got better, as I did, and as I acquired better equipment.

Good paint jobs are all about preparation, as is adhesion. If you get the surface properly prepared, then use a sealer, and then a self etching primer, you should be good, no matter what paint brand or type you choose.

Good luck with it!
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A self etching primer is supposed to be put on bare steel, not on top of another product. That is the point of it. It etches itself into the steel.
 
Sounds like you want to scuff the old paint, seal it, prime, bodywork and then prime and paint.

You can use a clear/base system going this route.
 
If its not in too bad of shape,like not cracking or peeling everywhere,you can scuff it down,or sand it using 320 on a DA Sander.If there is small dings,you can use polyester glaze putty,but you have to use the thicker filler for larger dents.I like using Evercoats glaze putty and their Gold Filler,Bondo brand is ok,but omg its like sanding concrete.=\Etch the bare metal spots(you can buy a rattle can of etch primer for small areas)Prime the body work(use good catalyzed primer,not the rattle can stuff,it will shrink and you will end up with swells)block sand the bodywork.I do like to seal them just so the car is one whole color,light sealer for light colors,dark sealer for dark colors.(ever try to paint something black yellow?Sometimes its a PITA to cover,lol)A nice base/clear paint job will do.I like to stick with 1 system,for example,Dupont base,with Dupont clear,Dupont hardener,reducer,etc,but you can use a more affordable universal clear that will work on most base coats.Just go to your local auto paint store and shop around for a good paint system =)
 
Coyote Jack said:
I just painted my truck with paint from Trinity, www.paintforcars.com and it turned out pretty good. The paint which was a gallon of each,base/clear, 1 quart of activator and 2 quarts of reducer came as a kit for $165.00 plus shipping. I have no complaints with the quality of thier product. They also sell primers and sealers cheap.

Jack
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Wow,thats a good price.
 
Is there a reason you don't like the acrylic enamel? I've painted with it for many years and had great success. I'm old school when it comes to paint. I prefer a single stage acrylic enamel over the base coat clear coat. Done correctly with the right amount of hardener, you can actually get a superior paint job. Factories used acrylic enamel for years with no problems. A bodies never came with clear coat from the factory. They were all acrylic enamel. I've always thought the two stage stuff came out ridiculously shiny anyway. With acrylic enamel you'll never have to worry about the clear peeling off. Seems almost anyone can paint with the two stage stuff. I like something that requires a little skill. Besides, IMO, the old acrylic enamel is a better product. I'm sure I'll get flamed, but I've painted with both and that's just my opinion.
 
It has little to do with not liking Acrylic Enamel.......it has to do with the results and final "look" I'm after on this particular project.

I've been warned that trying to mate a base over a previous acrylic enamel job may pull the original finish.......I'm not sure if there is a sealer well suited to deal with such a severe possibility. Self etching primers are for "etching", not sealing.

I need someone with direct experience in painting over old enamel jobs, most preferably with base/clear, OR at least a clear (over a respray with acrylic enamel) that will match the classic urethane finish.
 
Use a good epoxy as a sealer and you won't have any issues. As long as you sand the existing finish properly it won't be a problem. Sanding and refinishing over old substrates happens all the time. Not every paint job is striped to bare metal. Sand it, clean it, surface prime where needed, use epoxy as a sealer, base and clear it and done.
 
67Dart440GT said:
Use a good epoxy as a sealer and you won't have any issues. As long as you sand the existing finish properly it won't be a problem. Sanding and refinishing over old substrates happens all the time. Not every paint job is striped to bare metal. Sand it, clean it, surface prime where needed, use epoxy as a sealer, base and clear it and done.
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Agreed. SPI (http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/homepage.htm) makes some of the best epoxy in the biz. They ship for free too. Awesome customer support too.
 
Whatever you do, don't use the Duplicolor shopline. It is Acrylic Lacquer and will lift the enamel.
 
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