Re-painting with same color....process opinions?

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aengineguy

aengineguy

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In about 2 months, I am going to repaint my 71 Dart with the same Poly Gold. When I purchased, I thought the paint was original as I only saw pictures and it was 2000 miles away, stupid me for not asking! Once I picked it up, it was a repaint of the original color and is as wavy as the sea. I am embarressed enough by it to not even take it to a show, guess I am a little picky.

I am thinking to sand all down to bare metal with a geared DA as suggested in the sticky, fill and knock out low spots and block sand the holy snikees out of it to get strait.

Whatcha think?

I am not doing a rotisere, but will be pulling all the trim and bumpers.

Thanks.........!!
 
Why start all over? I would start blocking on what's there and see where that takes you.

It's a mistake to think that every car needs to go to bare metal.
 
I am in the process of a repaint and I am taking it down to bare metal. I believe that is the best way to go. You know exactly what your dealing with . Start with a etching primer followed with a 2k primer surface to block out straight , then a sealer . I am going with planet color and will be using their recommended products.

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w1eg6E41UQk"]7 Steps to a Killer Paint Job - YouTube[/ame]
 
blown71duster said:
I am in the process of a repaint and I am taking it down to bare metal. I believe that is the best way to go. You know exactly what your dealing with . Start with a etching primer followed with a 2k primer surface to block out straight , then a sealer . I am going with planet color and will be using their recommended products.

7 Steps to a Killer Paint Job - YouTube
Click to expand...

I agree, Its a 40y/o car. Im sure its been worked on more then once. If you start blocking and find filler I wouldnt leave it and just flatten out. I guarantee you its half assed underneath the filler. Especially if its in the lower 1/4s or fenders.
 
Adam, I agree. One consolation is that the car lived in Fresno CA all its life. There is not a spec of rust under it. So I am lucky. It just looks like it may have been in too many shopping cart wars over its life. No bubbles or anomalies in the lowers.

We'll see when I start putting the scratchy stuff to it.
 
My car is in the body shop. I had the same discussion with the shop guy. What pushed it over to the "bare metal" side was when I told him I had blocked the car out using rattlecan primer 20 years ago, prior to a previous paint job. He felt we had to get that layer off the car in order to ensure a good job. If it had been original paint he would have just sanded and smoothed as necessary.
 
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