Rear Deck Lid Barracuda Script....Factory attached forever!
- Thread starter MICHAEL J KLOCK
- Start date
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rustycowll69
Well-Known Member
I feel your pain. That's exactly where I am, wondering how to repaint the pebbled surface, and how to reattach script.
GTXperience
Orig Stealth Mod
How about picking up another Barracuda script to attach to your new panel and sell the old finish panel off (complete) to someone else?
I would remove it, then reattach with epoxy.
famous bob
mopar misfit
looks like a 68 lower trim, I had two and neither one had the dimpled/pebbled look, both were smooth, whats up w/ that? Anyone?
Thats a correct 67 trim with pebbled finish
famous bob
mopar misfit
I thot 67`s were way thinner than that ! ???? Both top and bottom.
That's the center piece. Here's a.pic of mine
We just hashed over this a bit in a different thread. Majority of badges have studs through holes in body panels. The script on a 67 B'cuda deck lid is one the exceptions.
You can remove the thing by stretching the holes in the aluminum panel to a cone like shape. I've done this 3 times before ( the same one twice ). Doing this without breaking the badge isn't easy. Don't pry between the parts. That can break the badge and/or distort the pebble texture.
Raise/support the panel, boxing around the badge. Work all anchors through/out at the same time/rate. The aluminum will crack a little at the holes, and creating those tiny cracks in advance gives us control. Place them where the badge/script will hide them. Some of the peened pot metal might break away but the badge can be reattached. ( About painting... nothing special, strip it, mask it, prime it, paint it. ) Block support the badge to reattach ( flatten holes/close cracks ). A dab of epoxy at each anchor bleeds through cracks, fills voids and secures, prevents badge wiggle. I've grown fond of the grey color 2 part epoxy used to bond hardware to holes in concrete. It cures rock hard but it aint cheap.
Only other option is a different badge and drilling holes through the deck lid. That's how the 68 B'cuda script it attached so that badge just might work here.
p.s. If I wasn't on the way out on holiday, I might draw suggest the little cracks on your pic. Use your imagination. Remember, "Can't never could." "Where there's a will there's a way."
You can remove the thing by stretching the holes in the aluminum panel to a cone like shape. I've done this 3 times before ( the same one twice ). Doing this without breaking the badge isn't easy. Don't pry between the parts. That can break the badge and/or distort the pebble texture.
Raise/support the panel, boxing around the badge. Work all anchors through/out at the same time/rate. The aluminum will crack a little at the holes, and creating those tiny cracks in advance gives us control. Place them where the badge/script will hide them. Some of the peened pot metal might break away but the badge can be reattached. ( About painting... nothing special, strip it, mask it, prime it, paint it. ) Block support the badge to reattach ( flatten holes/close cracks ). A dab of epoxy at each anchor bleeds through cracks, fills voids and secures, prevents badge wiggle. I've grown fond of the grey color 2 part epoxy used to bond hardware to holes in concrete. It cures rock hard but it aint cheap.
Only other option is a different badge and drilling holes through the deck lid. That's how the 68 B'cuda script it attached so that badge just might work here.
p.s. If I wasn't on the way out on holiday, I might draw suggest the little cracks on your pic. Use your imagination. Remember, "Can't never could." "Where there's a will there's a way."
famous bob
mopar misfit
My bad, missed the "center" part .
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