Rear disc Brakes on 8 3/4

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dodgedifferent2

dodgedifferent2

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Sorry for the crappy pics. Maybe take the digital camera out of its wrapper tonight.

using a 2000 Ford mustang caliper and rotor.

First my blank sheet of ideas
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My working drawing :)
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I managed to find a salvaged set of 2000 Ford Mustang rear calipers and rotors for a minimum charge of 20 bucks. Found out that the 5 on 4 1/2 bolt pattern is the same as the ford mustang. However the center hole is smaller on the rotor. So i decided it was better to modify my axles center to accept the rotor.
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vs
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damn many cunt hairs
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I had a spare axle that could not be shortened and re splined so i cut it down and took a bit off the bearing surface so i could quickly assemble the mounts and take it apart to check my work. This setup will work with the stock bearings

Here is a mock up of the brackets.

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I just have a bit of fine tuning on the brackets to make it so i can take the brackets off without disassembling the rear axle and also make the brackets look prettier.
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very interesting.......do you do the machine work yourself? (i wish I had a nice lathe)
 
so when are kits availibel to buy lol id be interested if its this easy dont have to mod every thing
 
well you made it this far im sure you will be abel to fig the rest out and when you do let us all know sense you have 4 buyers all ready sure its some thing to think about
 
Ok i just came home with a big chunk of steel. I will get to work on making up a few sets of these adapters for people.

I will supply the brackets and some hardware for the brackets and the buyer will supply the rest (ie calipers and caliper bracket) from a 94-2004 Ford Mustang (non cobra) These calipers fit in my 15" dog dish steel rims. Everything can be bought from NAPA, but if wanting to save a bit of cash there are core charges for the calipers or you can rebuild them yourself. Just a bit of salvage yard diving
I am asking $120 for the brackets.
 
what about rotors sense i know you machined your axel are you offering rotors that have been opened up or are we turning are axels down

chubs
 
you can either turn the inner rotor open .040 or turn your own axles down .040. I turned the axles down so that in 5 years when i replaced the rotor i would not have to re-machine the rotors.

Long run its cheaper to do the axles once, but a good machine shop in your area can do either or. I figure to keep the costs down the buyer can get the parts from their local NAPA. just using the brackets.
 
yea just the fact of pulling axels can scare some folks off
 
Thinking more about the rotors. I could open them up for people if wanted. It will up the price of the package deal a bit. Not sure what they cost as i have not bought new ones yet.
 
If I may say nice machining. You how ever still have to get a longer axle, and build spacers for the bearing package to push the bearing back into the tube. Dont forget that.This is exactly the same problem created with the Jeep Cherokee swap.
Andrew
 
blue missile said:
If I may say nice machining. You how ever still have to get a longer axle, and build spacers for the bearing package to push the bearing back into the tube. Dont forget that.This is exactly the same problem created with the Jeep Cherokee swap.
Andrew
Click to expand...

I will first add this is done manually. I do not have a cnc machining center.

On the jeep cherokee swap the problem is that the mounting plate is behind the bearing retainer. (Between the retainer and the flange.) I have studied that setup as well because i was originally going to use that idea. The mounting plate is 5/16 which pushes the bearing retainer out causing someone to need longer axles and use the spacer on the axles before the bearing.
It would be described like this. Flange, caliper mounting plate, bearing retainer.

On this setup the plate is on the front side of the bearing retainer. So it has no effect on the bearing at all. If you look closely at the pictures you will understand what i mean. In a perfect world t is almost to the point that you would not even need to adjust the bearing retainer
This setup, i have a plate as a spacer to act as the backing plate, then the bearing retainer, then the caliper mounting plate. This idea takes away needing the longer axles and needing to change bearings or use the green bearings.
 
What do we do for a parking brake? Is it integral in the caliper? Friend did an Explorer 8.8 and all he had to do was get a second "shortside" axle and trim the base of the "longside" axle tube (its a spot weld into the carrier section, unlike a 1 piece case of a 8 3/4) by drilling out the spot welds, pulling the tube out, using a pipe cutter to trim about 3 inches off to match the shorter axle and pressing it back in and filling the spot weld. Perches were not mentioned but are an EZ weld up. Now he gets a ford yoke on the end of the driveshaft and he has disk brakes, parking brake and a Ford limited slip diff with 3.90 ish gears. 150 for the rear , 30 for the axle and machine work. Your disks are cheaper though. Anything we can do for better stopping is always worth it, but rear disks have been debated for cost effectiveness.
 
yes the parking brake is in the caliper. The reason i went down this road. The jeep cherokee parking brake is a internal drum brake which is a stupid idea. I have never liked that idea.
 
Nice work !
Would you tell me which axle are you using ? I need the Hub and flange diameters to help clarify things.

I'm not a brake guy, so could you explain the Parking Brake hook up with pictures. Overall I think it would help everybody.

I am about to change my ABody Duster to the 4.5" pattern with new axles and was looking at the different Disc set ups, so this may be perfect timing for me, if it works out.

I can't take anything for granted with this 70 Duster.

I might suggest, that you get a donor car to show off your work.
 
My brake line solution ended up being buying a pair of Russell braided brake hoses, part # 657310. It has a 10mm banjo on one end and a 3/8"-24 inverted female end on the other. A 3/16" brake line screws right into it which is the same size as the stock brake line originally on the rear end.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RUS-657310/
 
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