Just wanted your opinions if you have did this conversion,on your A body. Good bad or ugly? Just wanted some opinions before deciding to jump in . Thanks guys and gals
Just wanted your opinions if you have did this conversion,on your A body. Good bad or ugly? Just wanted some opinions before deciding to jump in . Thanks guys and gals
Just wanted your opinions if you have did this conversion,on your A body. Good bad or ugly? Just wanted some opinions before deciding to jump in . Thanks guys and gals
Got them on my 8 1/4 love them just remember almost every kit you need 15" rims.
What MC did you go with? Is it a disc/drum or disc/disc? If a disk/drum, did you remove the residual valve? Thanks11 3/4" Police/Taxi rotors up front with Firm Feel's brake pads. Rears are a Dr Diff Econo kit with a 2006 Mustang Cobra R rear disc and caliper with parking brake. Master cylinder is just under an inch in bore-size. No adjustable proportioning valve, as it doesn't need it. Possibly one of the best, most predictable brake set-ups I've ever driven on a Mopar. It is so good, that I am running the same set-up with a power booster on my E-Body. It doesn't need the power booster though, and makes the brakes a bit touchy.
What MC did you go with? Is it a disc/drum or disc/disc? If a disk/drum, did you remove the residual valve? Thanks
For a streeter, with stock or near stock sized tires, I wouldn't bother.
The rear brakes do so little work, it's almost pathetic.
Go out and do three 30mph to zero stops, and measure the stopping distances.Average them out.
Then clamp the rear brake hose off and repeat. And remeasure. And calculate the percent difference.If the rear locks up, you may have a problem keeping the back in the back.And you already have too much brake in the back. But say that you are curious. Rip the P-valve out of your Combination valve, and bleed the air out.Repeat the 30 to zero test, now with full line pressure to the back. Lemme know what happens.
I have no experience doing this, but;
Considering that the rear brake pressure is strangled by the proportioning valve in an attempt to protect the driver from spinning out; for a streeter, I have, IMO,better things to spend my money on.
There is no reason to condemn this endeavor, but just remember to test,test,test. If the rear locks up first,they say the rear will come around and put you into a spin. I was very careful and somewhat conservative in setting up my rear brakes, and so far, the rear has always stayed in the rear.
I am just about to install my rear disc setup and i wanted to get a confirmation of use of the Prop valves. Do i use one or not? I purchased an adjustable one with the turn knob, as well as, purchasing the red and blue residual "in-line" valves. Do I need to use anything at all?
I get that, but it's a lot easier and cheaper to tweak the rear line pressure and wheel-cylinder size.
The factory engineered system was for a completely different parameter than what most of us are doing.
With 295s,and 10x2s, and the rest of my combo,I have a lot of rear brake bias and the rear actually does a lot of the work.So much so, that I regularly replace the rear shoes more often than the front pads. But, I'm only running 235/60s up front.
Anybody with non-factory tires , and who is still running the factory biasing, is missing out. And even more so if running big and littles.
And that link never explored this.
Are those Weld S71's - 15"? Also, are they a low pad and what Wilwood kit clears them? Looks great and thank you!Here is why I run rear discs. Because I have only owned 67-69 darts.
So right off the bat you need to swap to the big bolt pattern.
Now you need brakes with the BBP. So at that point if you need new brake why not go with discs?
Better look, better function, simpler, modern, etc, etc
View attachment 1714945746
I am just about to install my rear disc setup and i wanted to get a confirmation of use of the Prop valves. Do i use one or not? I purchased an adjustable one with the turn knob, as well as, purchasing the red and blue residual "in-line" valves. Do I need to use anything at all?
Are those Weld S71's - 15"? Also, are they a low pad and what Wilwood kit clears them? Looks great and thank you!
Nah...listen to A.J. The rear only supplies bout 25% of the braking.For a street car spend your
money on something else unless you want the "bling".