rear gear ratio suggestion.

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ap6street

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just trying to get a suggestion for rear end ratio before i buy.
car is 80% weekend cruiser, thrash around car. some track.no highway driving.
i want it to hook reasonably well without too much traction loss though.

3600lbs estimate.
600hp 360/410
indy 360-1
12.4:1 comp
266/272
8" 5600stall, 5000 off the foot brake. was built for 550ftlbs, although engine only made 530 at 5100rpm.
dana60 rear , detroit locker.
mickey thompson ss radials. 255 27.3" diameter.

i was thinking maybe a 4.88 , but maybe a bit short
 
80% weekend cruiser at that compression?

This is all personal preference really. If it was me and I wanted a cruiser with that kind of power I would run a 3:23 or 3:55. That car will burn the tires off with that power with a much more street friendly gear.

If you aren’t driving on the highway at all then go with 4:xx gears. Get some very sticky tires and a decent chassis set up though.
 
I am running 4.10's in a 65 Belvedere with a 470 Gen II Hemi and automatic. Not much if any highway driving. I like it.
With that high of a stall converter you might go to 4.56. I ran 4.88 and 5.13 on the street.You can forget about traction(on the street) but it sure is fun !
 
with that small tire go 4.30, that what I run with a 11" X 28", and with 43 and 10 teeth it is the strongest
 
For streertwork; With a 5000 stall,and 530ftlbs, the starter gear doesn't really matter.
Launching at 530ftlbs, with a 2.45 low gear, and say 3.91s you will be have a maximum put down of
530 x 2.45x 3.91x12/13.65 equals 4463ftlbs to the road corrected to a 12" radius. And 255s take about 1500 to break loose on the street,with street suspension. So you have 3 times what you need. You could put a single barrel from a slanty on there and still boil those 255s.So forget about first gear.
The 3.23s,as mentioned,would be 530/2.45x 3.23x 12/13.65=3690ftlbs, still more than twice what you need. So forget about first gear.
So how about second.? Say you want to blast off from from around 32 mph. When you go hammer down,with 3.23s, you will have a maximum available road ftlbs of
530 x 1.45 x 3.23 x12/13.65=2182corrected ftlbs, still more than enough enough, enough,to break the 255s loose.

Real-life;
My 367 needs about 2425 corrected road ftlbs to break crappy BFG 295s loose at 45, with no traction aider. I do it with 3.55s and a manual trans in second [email protected] numbers look like;
400 x 3.55 x 1.92x12/13.5 =2423.. It takes almost all she's got, but, she'll still do it at 50 as well, where the numbers are 2575s.
By 60, the Rs are hitting 5100, and the torque is falling and so she can't do it any more. If they're already spinning, they will continue to 7000@82mph.

No matter for you tho, just keep yours in second and with a maximum of 2182, you should be good to break them loose into the 40s.

This is so much fun, that I have never bothered to work on the traction issue.
3.55s would add 10% to all the peak road-torque numbers.

If you already have gears in her, and she's driveable, I suggest to just drive it for a few hours with whatever you have and make note of what you don't like about the current gear.

But I'll tell ya, I tried 3.91s,4.11s,4.30s,4.88,and 5.13s, and the one I came back to is the 3.55s and that's with a 3.09 low gear and a clutch. And the reason is; with a starter gear of 3.55 x 3.09=10.97; this is just the right amount of off-the-line punch to get moving,and not so much that I have to pull second right away. And I typically slip the clutch out at under 2000

At the track;
3600/600 =6.0 PW and that is about 128 mph, so gear it accordingly. I'm guessing 4.10s with a 727, and those 255s

Marco says 4.30s and I agree that they are strong, but at 128, you may trap at over 7100rpm. You're gonna need taller tires.Maybe 30s, to hit around 6500 with 5% slip, 6600 with 7%.
But say your tune is off and you're only hitting 124, then you're probably still looking at 4.10s with the shorties.
 
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