rear seat pads n covers...whos???? how????

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turbofreek

batcrap crazy racing team
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I need to recover my seat frame top and bottom of the backseat. Any how tos for these?? My frames had to be modified for my tubs. So must use my own frames I currently have. All the seat covers had been pretty torn and rotten. So I removed the covers and foaming which was not much at all. Also the bottom sest portion had a woven layer that caught fire. It had wiring through out it I figure for support. Any helpful threads or ideas how hard it is vs cost to have somebody else do it??? Front seats are carbon fiber so black is a must.

I also have to modify my rear side panels or make new. What kinda backing board is prefered? The lighter the better. Perhaps a thin sheet of plasic trimmed to fit would work???
 
Padding a rear seat frame is easily done at home.
First check for broken springs(back seats are usually fine)
The first layer you need to put on top of springs is burlap. This is the brown
potato sac looking cloth that the factory installed to keep the foam or cotton
from being pushed thru the spring wires. This is usually desentigrated from age
moisture or mice. If you are not concerned with originality a better choice can be used
that will last longer. I like to use tarp material or canvas.
This canvas is installed with the typical upholstery hog rings to the perimeter wire frame.
Second layer the factory used was the spring steel wire batting (wire laced thru burlap)
This has likely come apart also due to the burlap not holding up
This layers purpose is to spread the load on the springs so they don't spread away from
each other and create a unsupported area that would have you and your cover sitting on the floor.
This can be remedied a number of ways. If you you used canvas for the first layer it is strong enough to be attached to each springs in two or more places with the hog rings.
I should have mentioned this canvas needs to be stretched tight over the frame.
Think like a drum. not tight = no support. If you didn't use canvas you can use nylon
webbing stretched left to right across the burlap and rung to every spring. The bottom cushion is the main concern here, backrest not so much. The main area the springs shouldn't be allowed to separate is about two thirds back from the leading edge. This is the area that sees the most pressure from use.
Now you are ready for padding. Depending on the year or model this padding can be cotton
or foam or a combination of both. For most rear seats a sheet of 1" foam will do the job.
This should be of at least medium density to firm being better.
From here out you will need a custom cover made if your frame has been modified. I do this kind of work every day for a living at my shop. You need a industrial sewing machine and some skills from here on out. If you really wanted a comfortable high quality seat
It goes beyond this basic description but this will give you a pretty good idea how a seat is supposed to work.
 
I forgot to mention on your panels most upholstery shops have the stock cardboard kind that can be cut to shape or abs sheets for a more moisture proof alternative. The cardboard is more stable against heat the abs is better in wet environments like boats.
 
Wow. You scare the hell out of me now. I dont have a sewing machine to start with. It is not the top of the fame modified its the underneath and backside of the back rest. Probably the places where the cloth cover would grasp to the frame?

Whats the cost of doing such work??
im damn tempted to put to buckets in the center of the tubs if its to much. Its just for two kids to ride in the back to cruise ins or a meal.
 
Ive got panels with fairly decent boards. I was looking for a lighter alternative and easier way to make them. Such as plastic flat stock and cut holes to fite the handles etc... if I do the back seat with two buckets it would be easy to extend the rear side panels to cover the remainder of opening from the missi g seat portions.
 
Its not really hard to do. Just hard to explain without it in front of you. Wasn't trying to scare you. Infact the opposite. I was trying to explain it so it would work as the factory intended.
If the face of the seat frame is still the stock shape a factory cover will still work and you can do the job yourself. Seriously give it a try rear seats are easy.
Get some hog ring pliers and rings, a piece of canvas, a sheet of 1" foam and a new seat cover. Takes about an hour or so. I probably shouldn't have went into why it works just how to do it. Hope this helps.
Cardboard upholstery panels can be cut to shape with tin snips and a box knife.
 
Here is what I do during the day at the shop. Your seat is much simpler and can be done at home. This custom merc cannot be done at home. Same principles apply tho.
 

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I try to answer the upholstery questions or other topics i have learned something about when I see them come up.
I taught myself this trade starting back in 1979 ,still learning as things change all the time.
I wanted to learn this and many other automotive skills because I couldn't afford to have someone do it for me. I still can't afford to have others work on my cars.
Just buying the parts is a big enough expense for me. Questions I can answer for free.
I have asked many on this site. Some good folks here to help out with our mopars.
 
Wow that is beauiful work. Lord oh mighty. You have been helpful. I to cant afford somebody else to do my work.
 
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