Rear Shock Mount

-

RogerRamRod

The Older I Get, The Faster I Was
FABO Gold Member
Joined
Jul 5, 2011
Messages
1,524
Reaction score
1,232
Location
Chesapeake VA
I moved my axle back 1 inch to make clearance at the front of the opening for larger tires. This makes it so the shock mounts on the spring plate and body don't line up. I was planning on having new plates fabricated that move the shocks 1 inch forward (there is 1-7/16 clearance to the axle tube). Now something bad happened... I got to thinking...As the axle housing rotates on acceleration, it is also trying tobend the shocks. Since I need to have new mounts made for my shocks anyway, would it makes sense to mount the shocks in line with the frame, like in my jeep, rather than across the car, so that as the axle rotates upon acceleration, it's not trying to bend the shock? The twist of the axle would pivot on the shock mounts and be absorbed by the shock along its lenght on its extension stroke. I would plan on mounting the shocks at the same angle relative to the ground, and at the same amount of extension. What do some of you think. Other than the exhaust probably being in the way, can you think of anything else I might need to consider?
 
Wow, an inch sure seems like a lot. Check to make sure the shock doesn't hit the gas tank - or do you have a fuel cell in the trunk?
C
 
The upper shock mount is in the same location I only slid the axle back 1 inch on the leaf springs. My intent is to move the shock 1 inch forward on the spring mount. That's when I got the idea to turn the shock 90° and mount the upper to the frame rather than the trunk floor. Obviously for either solution I need to fabricate a new spring plate/shock mount.
 
Roger

I modified my lower shock attachment plates last weekend. PM me your email address if you want and I'll send you a picture- Can't seem to load a photo here. I did 1" just like you. I cut the ear with the shock bolt on it and slid it 1" forward and welded it back on. I expect it will work just fine since the shock is more than an inch from the axle housing. There's no gas tank in the car now so hope it won't be a problem later.
 
I drove with it many years with the axle moved, tank was only close to Differential. I had never figured out why I kept going through shocks though. The car sat for way too many years before I started work on it again. Now that I have it apart and am studying it more carefully and such, I'm seeing how things relate to each other much more.
Anybody with thoughts on the shocks mounted to the frame rails as opposed to the trunk floor?
 
the shocks are at an angle to dampen the side to side movement of the body. like when going around a turn or a quick lane change from emergency situation. so mounting them straight up to the frame that's the only thing you'll loose.
 
Don't forget, the spring is an arc, and when you move it back, the pinion drops down. Need to reset the pinion angle when you do this. Mounting the shocks vertical will affect handling. May not matter on a drag car, or one with a panhard bar, but you should have some way to control lateral movement.
 
Thanks for the responses. Not planning on mounting them vertical, still at an angle, just front to back rather than side to side. I hadn't thought about side loading but was thinking about a Panhard Rod or Watts link anyway, so that might become a requirement rather than a thought.
 
I just finished moving my differential back 1/4" for bigger tires (69 Barracuda). If I moved it back an inch the tires would definitely hit the back of the fender lip!! I also moved the lower shock mount forward 1/4" and it worked out perfect. Make sure you weld it real good and put some gussets on there so that you don't crack the welds!!
Also, I don't think you change the pinion angle by moving the rear end back or forward but your driveshaft may not have enough engagement into the tranny if you move it back an inch???

Treblig
 
-
Back
Top