Rear tire width requirements in relation to HP?

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1970dartcustom said:
So, basically I learned from research is that pinion snubbers help reduce wheel hop and twisting of the rear. Some say good springs will make it no necessary to have a pinion snubber, but others say that it is important to have one because the higher hp you go the more it will come into play. So, it is a good idea to have? I am just using the ride for street cruising and some fun, with 235- 250 hp in a 70 dart, is it really necessary? I have extra stiff hemi springs I was told...
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There is a short factory snubber on most Chryco rears.
At your power level,tire size, and stated useage,you should be fine;with or without that factory one.
 
The only 15 inch tires I will run on either of the rears of my Mopars are Nitto Drag Radials. They are the only tire which make my Mopars safe to drive on the street. They have a 186mph speed rating, last for several years if not used to make smoke signals and give adequate performance in the rain. They are not a cold weather tire though, and are not recommended for climates that drop below freezing on a regular basis. Once warmed a bit, they are unbeatable for street traction and vastly superior to any other street tire out there for general performance including handling.

I've run pinion snubbers on my cars for years. Its been a while since I've dialed one in, but if they are adjusted correctly, they are very close to touching if not touching the floor pan of the car depending if automatic or manual.

Once adjusted this way, the quality of the ride the rear suspension is capable of providing is much harsher than I am willing to put up with on the street. This happens because it stops the nose of the rear end from stroking through its otherwise normal range of travel. The remaining travel is limited to the amount that the rear spring segment will allow, while being contorted due to the locking up of the front spring segment by stopping the nose of the rear end from moving. They work great on a smooth track, but are brutal on the back for normal open road driving.

I wish someone would make a robust pinion snubber that was switchable from deployed to retracted positions from inside the car. Then it would give the best of both worlds.
 
charger426 said:
Originally Posted by Hersbird
I do know that Ram SRT10's were hurt straight line with their monster tires compared to the more resonable tires that came on the Ford Lignting.
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Huh? Where did you come up with this?
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He is refuring to the tire size vs. gear ratio & the power of the engine that would be better as a performance vehicle rather than a everyday street truck that has balls.

The engine produces power in a curve, the stall converter plays a roll, the trans has gears that get it moving and the rear ratio & tire size are the final outlet of the power. Each part mentioned above can be tailored for street, Hwy. Race, road rally, grand ma's shopping car.
 
jbc426 said:
Once adjusted this way, the quality of the ride the rear suspension is capable of providing is much harsher than I am willing to put up with on the street.
I wish someone would make a robust pinion snubber that was switchable from deployed to retracted positions from inside the car. Then it would give the best of both worlds.
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^^
 
It's all about what you want. It's also about reality. I know a lot of "500hp" cars at cruise nights that can't spin those tiny tires. Those cars I've had that had some steam, you learn to drive them, or you wreck them. Basic stuff there.
 
1970dartcustom said:
Oops, I meant 425-450 hp :) not 235-250!!! Lol...
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OOps is right.
With skinny tires and Hemi springs, on the street you should be fine.
But,you are gonna need more rubber. And then you might, that's might, need an aftermarket adjustable snubber.
I have one on my 425 hp, but I've only ever used it twice, since 1999;both times, at the track.
 
My dad uses a pinion snubber and a torque strap on his 440 69 road runner, his puts out about 500 hp... Do I need those with70 dart 383, 425 plus hp?
 
The strap, for sure, YES. That 383, if it gets traction, will shred the factory biscuit, and then it shred a lot of other things as it tries to rotate itself upside down.Schumacher makes some shred-proof biscuit mounts. If you have those and street tires, you are good to go.
 
Yep lol my 340 pulled the left motor mount up and back from the bracket. Had to install a torque strap.
 
charger426 said:
I have my snubber set up just like yours (middle hole) but when on the ground its touching the body already. Thought for the street you dont want it to touch when just sitting.
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Huh thats weird? Mine is about 1.5-2 inches from touching
 
Have you guys ever heard of poly locks? I guess they're engine mount technology that doesn't allow for twisting n movement like a torque strap, but causes u to no longer need a torque strap... Read about it http://www.manciniracing.com/newmapopomom.html
they seem pretty sweet, AND I can incorporate them into my conversion mounts using my slant six K member changing to 383 :)
I'm gonna get them I think!!!!
 
I am a little confused. A lot of talk about rubber compounds differential gearing, traction bars, pinion snubber's etc........... I thought he was going to drive it on the street. The only traction of concern should be when braking or making hard turns. All of this other stuff is just bench racing. How many of you are concerned with how hard your car is launching when you are just going to the store ? Really??
 
Well, Leo, just going to the store sure, but that doesn't mean I wont race someone along the way, or drive to a car show very fast. I am not wanting my car to get messed up due to lack of proper precaution, that's all... I have a daily driver pickup and a jeep, this Dart is just for fun...
 
MoparLeo said:
How many of you are concerned with how hard your car is launching when you are just going to the store ?
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I certainly am. I'm concerned with my LHS and how it launches. Sometimes you have to be the first to that 100' mark down the road or get stuck behind someone that doesn't care how quick their car accelerates :p.
 
MoparLeo said:


... The only traction of concern should be when braking or making hard turns. All of this other stuff is just bench racing....U]
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You are correct, sir. With traction aids, the correct drag radial tires, a stiffened chassis, the proper torque converter/clutch, the appropriate gears and just under 500 hp in a convertible A-Body and 710 hp in an E-Body; my only remaining concerns are stopping and hard turns. I've got the straight line traction part sorted out. :burnout:
 
rumblefish360 said:
He is refuring to the tire size vs. gear ratio & the power of the engine that would be better as a performance vehicle rather than a everyday street truck that has balls.

The engine produces power in a curve, the stall converter plays a roll, the trans has gears that get it moving and the rear ratio & tire size are the final outlet of the power. Each part mentioned above can be tailored for street, Hwy. Race, road rally, grand ma's shopping car.
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Just didn't understand the comment about them being slow because of the tires. My 04 SRT10 Ram halls...I mean its a 12second truck from the factory.
 
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