rearend ? again

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mr.318

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if anybody has read my other post i bought a 81/4 rear at a swapmeet with 355 suregrip suppose to be out of a 73 dart well after driving it a little bit the axle seal starting leaking i pulled the axle tonight never seen nothing like it the bearing stayed in the houseing looks like it's been sleeved and the bearings pressed in the sleeve the seal for the 81/4 is thick the one in it's thin anybody everheard of this the rear has no tag the numbers on it or 3723599 and 10325 it fit in my dart it didn't whine or make any nose? it don't have a rubber fill plug in the cover either? has a screw in plug on the side of the houseing makes me wonder what it's out of nobody has a seal 4 it either i'm gonna check napa tomrrow i got a # for it
 
8 1/4 Castings numbers: 2852905, 3723598, 3723599

8 ¼
Introduced in 1969. This rear end will be found in all Darts / Valients from 73 - 76 and also can be found in 340 Dusters and other A bodies. There is a sure -grip available beginning in 1973. Sure-grip units are commonly found in Diplomat cop cars throughout the 80's but that rear end is a bit harder to install than the 73 -76 due to the strange leaf spring mounting pads. These pads can be cut off the axle and replaced with more conventional ones if you wish.

Info: 1 5/8 pinion, 57.6" wide, 10 bolt cover, 55.6" width (flange to flange) / 51.4 housing flange to flange / 43.02 spring seat center to center.
 
okay so it is a 81/4 out of an abody could it be it's been sleeved never heard of it is that something that can be done everyone i ever took out the bearing had to be pressed off and on the axle my bearings staying in the housing after i slid axle out
 
On the 8 1/4 the bearing fits in the housing snug and the axle rides on the bearing. The main problem with this design is the axle usually goes away before the bearing does. The bearing number for this app. is 6408. they do make a repair bearing RP 6408 that looks different than the original because it locates the bearing load further out than the original, this is a quik fix deal but I'd rather replace the axle.
 
This design with the axle shaft being the inner race for the bearing is not an unusal design. Most all axles that are retained by C clips use the same set up whether they are mopar, GM or Ford. There is also a seal that repositions the lip to an area that is not worn too.
 
thanks for the help atleast i know what i got now guess it has the repair kit cause the bearing isthe rp6408 sits out further still can't find seals napa ordered them for me but they said the seal is showing up as a timing cover seal instead of wheelseal but i checked the same part # 472397 online at rockautoparts it's listed as a wheelseal there ? hope there right
 
well the seals that napa ordered or wrong the guy tried measureing my old seal and couldn' t come up with nothing the seal has a number rf200 on it which oreallys came up with a# 472397 on which napa ordered there listing says its for a timingcover but that # at rockauto says axle seal should i order it and try it ? can't belive the trouble i'm having finding a seal
 
From my past experience, your not going to find that seal for the RP bearing. I've tried in the past. Your going to have to buy another RP 6408, or Now is the time to buy a new axle and replace that abortion with the right parts.
 
The rear axle seal is Timken #8835S available at Autozone for $4.99 each.

The rear axle bearing the locates the wear area into a different location is Timken # TRP1559TV, $21.99 each at Autozone. Stock replacement bearing is 6408 for $9.99
 
I'm pretty sure the 8835S seal is the axle tube seal. i think he is looking for the seal in the RP bearing. But I might be wrong.
 
yea i'm look for the outer axle seal i plan on changing the axles out but intill i get the money to i'd like to drive it alittle i don't know if i'm gonna like that 355 suregrip might change it all it once i'll check that# at the zone thanks
 
I have no idea if it fits a GM or not but it's listed for an 8.25 (look up a 74 Dart with a 360) and that is what I used when I rebuilt the 8.25 I put under my Barracuda.
 
went to the zone today that seal want work either mine has the bearing kit which moved the bearing out further in the tube the seal is real narrow looks more like a tranny seal somebodys got to make em ? the # on the seal is rf200 i crossed that # at rockauto to a natl.#472397 from the picture it looked right i ordered it hope it'll work
 
thank you sgbarracuda also is the bearing pressed in or what look like the seal is already on the bearing kit from looking at the picture of the part ? i'm going to the s.g. moparnats this month mabey i'll find some axles and fix it right
 
The RP bearing will come with the seal in it, I use a slide hammer with a hook on the end to pull them out.
 
hate to keep asking ?'s but after i ordered it i found a rp6408 at oreillys i got it i see what barracuda is talking about the the seals made on it the repair kit in it has a replaceable seal got to looking the #on the bearing is 1559-ts so if i take it out will the rp6408 work in the houseing now? what is the 1559 # in it anybody know that # is could it be an dodge # the rp6408 should still work right ?
 
what next? okay i've been trying to get the old one out with a slidehammer well it's tore the bearings out but the sleeve hasn't bulged anybody know any tricks i don't won't to damage the housing if i hadn't cut the driveshaft i would put the 71/4 rear back in it's looking better and better i think there stronger than people think mines been chirpping 2 and doing burnouts for years
 
That does happen, the bearing shell is so thin. I will take a torch and heat the shell till I can either get something like a sharp chiesel under it or use one to cut thru it with a hammer. 8 1/4 is much better than the 7 1/4. Keep at it your almost done.
 
thanks sgbarracuda i changed arms on the slidehammer and it came out pretty easy anybody think if i freeze the new one it'll go in any easier
 
If you freeze it it can't hurt anything andit may make it go in easier. Be careful when installing the new bearing, use something that is almost the same diameter as the bearing, that little rolled edge on the bearing can break easy.
 
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