Rebuilding my 700hp 408

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Duane said:
Just my two cents here but almost every guy I know who built a stroker small block, claims that the low 1st gear in the 904 is not required with a stroker motor. I believe guitar jones reported that his car ran the same et after getting rid of the low gear. Last summer I saw several stroker motor small blocks at my local track with severe traction problems while still using the low gear with the increase displacement.most of the faster cars in the low 9 second range with 500 inch motors are running a 2.28 1st gear to tame the launch because of excessive torque. Maybe put the 904 in for the et but not for the low gear.
Just a thought.

Duane
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Good idea and that makes sense but I am still going to try it. Plus its not that hard to change out the first gear set.
 
Did you put hard block fill in that 360 block? I'm building a similar combo, but with the 360-2 230CNC from Indy + a little Brett Miller port work, comp solid roller, etc. I am going to use a 1990 roller block, w/ 4" crank, .040 over = 410 ci.
 
nice, what can of numbers are hoping for at the dyno.
 
dart19666 said:
So we pulled off the 1050 dominator and changed it to a Quick fuel 750. This was very nice because I can run 10.30 - 10.20 depending on air at about 129 - 131 also depends on air..
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....so you went from 9.4's to 10.2's by going from a 1050/4500 down to a 750/4150??? that was the only change??? I just find that a huge drop.....
 
Ha!.... ok, that makes mucho better sense. carry on!
 
darndart said:
Did you put hard block fill in that 360 block? I'm building a similar combo, but with the 360-2 230CNC from Indy + a little Brett Miller port work, comp solid roller, etc. I am going to use a 1990 roller block, w/ 4" crank, .040 over = 410 ci.
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Yes i did. Use the block fill before you have it machined because this will make it out of round. Once you do both sides then have it bored and honed with a torque plate. I used water to find the right amount of block fill to use for each side. Once you drain the water use a little over the counter alcohol to displace the water, then blow it out with an air gun. Each side will be different amounts of block fill. Its alot of work but it makes the block much stronger. Better than buying an R block. I have used this block for over ten years with many 7,500 rpm passes.
 
dart19666 said:
Yes i did. Use the block fill before you have it machined because this will make it out of round. Once you do both sides then have it bored and honed with a torque plate. I used water to find the right amount of block fill to use for each side. Once you drain the water use a little over the counter alcohol to displace the water, then blow it out with an air gun. Each side will be different amounts of block fill. Its alot of work but it makes the block much stronger. Better than buying an R block. I have used this block for over ten years with many 7,500 rpm passes.
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Thanks for the reply. I already picked up some hard block. How high did you go? I was told just past the freeze plugs. My local machinist doesn't have a torque plate for a SBM, so I bought a new in the box BHJ plate off of an Ebay auction. Once the weather warms up, I'll get that sucker hard blocked and off to the machinist. Thanks.:)
 
darndart said:
Thanks for the reply. I already picked up some hard block. How high did you go? I was told just past the freeze plugs. My local machinist doesn't have a torque plate for a SBM, so I bought a new in the box BHJ plate off of an Ebay auction. Once the weather warms up, I'll get that sucker hard blocked and off to the machinist. Thanks.:)
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Sorry for the late reply I have been busy. I really don't remember the exact height but I do remember that it was just lower than the water inlet hole coming from the water pump housing. Also I have a sweet video for you to watch so the water drains still can be used. Enjoy.

[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PvmupoDIsZ0"]Moroso Block Filler - YouTube[/ame]
 
I had to put on a 750cfm carb on it to slow it down so I don't go into the 9's. My cage will not allow this and I don't want to add a bigger jungle jim in the car. It is what it is a 10.05 car with plenty to spare and I CAN drive it on the street if I wanted to, but the gas is expensive so this is only happens when the local car show is in full swing. It has muffles and an Air cleaner that I do not take off when I race because it has plenty to spare. I had a throttle stop on it but the 750 carb took care of this and now no more stop.

I race in this on going event here at Barona called Match Race Madness. I love it. Its heads up pro tree all out racing. Imostly race Imports and Big Block Chubbies. This next race is pictured below and if you live in the area its worth a watch.
 

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Good luck next race ! Wish we had racing in November , we do but it's snowmobile racing !
 
345man2 said:
so on a hot tune what you think it would do:D
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Not sure, but with the set up I have now "with the Quick fuel 750 and the timing backed off to 30 degrees" at the last March meet I went a 9.92 135 mph. If I turned it up I would have to change the rear gear from 4.56 to 4.30 or go taller on the tire. But if I had to guess. 9.60's to 9.70's but that is just a guess. I really don't want to go that fast because of all the extra **** you have to do to the car. Plus I still drive this thing on the street.
 
dart19666 said:
No problem, The main caps are Milodon four caps. They were pretty easy to put in. I did all the install back in 2004 besides doing the align hone a local shop did that. The biggest thing that on one seamed to say anything about was the stud on cap number five under the oil pump. This was a major task. When I first started putting this thing together the instructions right from ARP said "Most will not be able to use this stud under the pump so use a stock bolt instead." So I chucked that thing up in my mill and took off about .250". Then called ARP and had them make a stud that fit it was still slightly to tall so I had to wet sand it "NO HEAT" to get it to size.
The CNC took every bit of visible hand work done. As far as flow numbers the Indy website say 330cfm at .700 lift. When I got my heads back the gave me a flow sheet saying that at .700" lift they flowed 346cfm. I always check everyone's work and took them to my buddy's shop and had them flowed, every port was checked for the uniformity. All of them were within 1% of each other and the lowest 358cfm and the highest 361cfm. Not bad for just chucking in a machine, pushing a button and letting it go. But here is the funny thing we found. at a lift of 0.715" the flow number started to go the other direction or get less. not until 0.792" did it pick back up again. Crazy. I have a total lift now right around 0.700 or so lift so I should be fine.
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What size valves? Sorry if it was posted.
 
dart19666 said:
I had to put on a 750cfm carb on it to slow it down so I don't go into the 9's. My cage will not allow this and I don't want to add a bigger jungle jim in the car. It is what it is a 10.05 car with plenty to spare and I CAN drive it on the street if I wanted to, but the gas is expensive so this is only happens when the local car show is in full swing. It has muffles and an Air cleaner that I do not take off when I race because it has plenty to spare. I had a throttle stop on it but the 750 carb took care of this and now no more stop.

I race in this on going event here at Barona called Match Race Madness. I love it. Its heads up pro tree all out racing. Imostly race Imports and Big Block Chubbies. This next race is pictured below and if you live in the area its worth a watch.
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dart19666,

Thanks for sharing the pics. I now have a new wallpaper to look at all day at work and wish my car was running!
 
With that kind of longevity in your 360 I'm curious as to how often you change oil, etc. I have a similar 360 build in my 72 Dart but I'm running W2 race heads and a 1050 Dominator, though I have an 850DP that I'm going to experiment with in the spring.
 
Les Gibson said:
With that kind of longevity in your 360 I'm curious as to how often you change oil, etc. I have a similar 360 build in my 72 Dart but I'm running W2 race heads and a 1050 Dominator, though I have an 850DP that I'm going to experiment with in the spring.
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I’ve had a built 340 for almost 8 seasons I drop the oil about this time of year and usally in May and then October. Three times of year depending on miles too. I have a we’ll built motor that is on the street a lot 3000 in between changes for a built motor . Call me crazy I like keeping fresh oil in it runs better never had an issue. 12000 miles on our street build but I’m very religious on the oil.
 
dart19666 said:
I built this engine in 2004 and after 10 years of great service I believe it is time to finally crack it open and see what I see. I have already pulled it apart and beside a crank polish, new bearings, block hone, and new rings everything looks good to go. The only things I have/going to changed is that I went with T&D 1.6 rockers. Also on my 360-1 heads they were hand ported way back in the day by Indy. I sent them back to Indy to get them CNC ported with the Intake. I will be starting the rebuild tomorrow with all the pic that I can do.

Here is some history of the block and how I prepped it back in 2004. The block is a 1970 360 from a truck. After pulling seven or so blocks from junkyard trucks I finally found one that was the best of the best. Well as good as a 1970's vintage block could be. I have the right side oil passage drilled and copper tubed. All oil passages have been opened up to 1/2 inch except the holes going to the mains they are 9/32. Also instead off blocking the oil that goes up from main #1 to fill the left side lifters at the half inch hole behind the cam plate, I just blocked it at the oil passage right off the main with a set screw. This is way easier and looks much cleaner.

The Car is a 1966 dodge dart. Caltracs, 727, 8 3/4 4.30 spool, 28 x 10 Hoosier slicks "track" or 275/60r15 drag radials "street", stock front suspension with slant 6 torsion bars. The best the car has ran was 9.41 at 141mph. This is great but I did not want to run in the 9's and all the SFI, cage cert bullshit that went with it. So we pulled off the 1050 dominator and changed it to a Quick fuel 750. This was very nice because I can run 10.30 - 10.20 depending on air at about 129 - 131 also depends on air. I race in the NHRA heritage series in a class called hotrod. One more thing Yes this is street legal and still drive to cruise night and back home again. If you have any questions please feel free to ask. Once again I will be doing all the set up and building tomorrow. 8/4/14.
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MUST BE ONE HELL OF A SET OF HEADS !
 
Why would anyone in their right mind send ported heads to Indy to have them cnc’d and risk water leaks when they want to slow their car down. Something smells fishy.
 
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